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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
As the thread title states i need some help to treat the rear arches as a temporary fix till the summer and was wondering if this would be any good and then cover with a touch up brush or pen and seal it just to get me by till i respray or vinyl wrap it as the winters really bit into them and is really beginning to bug me now[/B]

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...LL4qKN6g5zpNTgeQg&sig2=G-32MrOLBzti7brTmJey_Q

Picture of the worst arch



I would have loved to have new arches now but the missus has put her foot down and wants the house sorting out with decorating,kitchens etc etc so it will have to wait so i need a temporary fix
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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no prob, I did this on my old MK3 golf...but just let the rust remover gel take its time to work (few hours - several coats as they dry quick) and this should absorb

let us know how it goes!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited by Moderator)
no prob, I did this on my old MK3 golf...but just let the rust remover gel take its time to work (few hours - several coats as they dry quick) and this should absorb

let us know how it goes!
Have to be honest as its the first car i have ever had with rusty arches so a new problem for me so will give it a go and hopefully tidy it up some and will take pics as i go along even if it is a crap samsung camera phone
 

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Ive used the rust gel before, its top notch stuff.
 

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I ground the rust away, then brushed on Krust, then filled with Metalik, then etch primed, then primed, then on the lip applied stone chip, then colour coat, then clear coat, then compound, then more compound, then wax n polish. Then this one time, at band camp...
 

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I got rust bubbles just appearing on both my front arches. I went round to the body shop I usually use, and the guy there, speaking frankly said,' Rust is cancer for cars. Theres no real way to stop it, once it's started, you have to remove it totally by either cutting it out and welding, which can cause the surrounding metal to buckle under the heat, or to replace the whole wing.'

I'm going to see him tomorrow for a price quote to take back, treat, stone chip under seal both wings and spray, along with respraying the front bumper too. I bet it's gonna be at least £300 exc. VAT. probably nearer £400.
 

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If its only surface rust it can be stopped using converters but if its actually eating the body it will be time to cut back to the good metal in each holes and you can either bodge it with bondo or cust the entire lip off and weld and paint.

Or as ive seen in the past put some chrome over it :mischievous
 

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When I had an MR2 mk2, I put it into a body shop for a custom paintjob, and have the rear spoiler removed. There left several holes. The guy said he would weld steel plates on the inside, and fill the holes with lead. Sounded strange at the time, but theres your answer.
 

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lead doesnt rust no they use it alot in america for shaping custom hotrods
 

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Started on treating them today,took my time and rubbed them both down and applied rust treatment and whipped the wheels off and cleaned the arches out and hammerited them while i was at it.treated with kurust twice today and one more coat tue/wed.borrowed some tools to machine rub down to metal from work and then undercoat,paint and laquer them again if i am happy with it but no rush and get it right first time and hopefully all should be ok.also moved my amp today to where the first aid box is and made a little bracket and have the amp standing up and tidied the wiring up a bit more all before work-phew
 

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Does anyone know if lead rusts? I've just seen a episode of american hotrod and they "lead load" the seams. Apparently it doesn't rust :confused

I'd be looking to do this if anyone can recommend it? its solid and shapes 100x better than body filler which has the risk of paint sagging and cracking in the future..
Lead is non ferrous so it cannot rust, its a pretty stable element. but it can still corrode

They use it in keel of sailling boats i belive as a counter weight, so it must be pretty resilant to salty water
 

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Started on treating them today,took my time and rubbed them both down and applied rust treatment and whipped the wheels off and cleaned the arches out and hammerited them while i was at it.treated with kurust twice today and one more coat tue/wed.borrowed some tools to machine rub down to metal from work and then undercoat,paint and laquer them again if i am happy with it but no rush and get it right first time and hopefully all should be ok.also moved my amp today to where the first aid box is and made a little bracket and have the amp standing up and tidied the wiring up a bit more all before work-phew
any pics of your progress?
 

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need to do this to mine is your paint metalic
 
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