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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK

After giving up on my E34 525td I bought another toy BMW...the E36 325td.
Great car :hihi ....I think a lot nicer design...and it has been my favorite BMW. I remember it from when I was too young to drive and I always wanted one of them.

Anyway….my new toy has 2 small problems…..

a). I think the idle is too low…..it idles at around 600rpm and because of this it rattles a bit. If I touch the accelerator a little bit and get it up to 800-900rpm it sounds great!!!
How should I go about increasing the idle speed??

b) There is a small diesel leak from the top cover of the injection pump. I can see a little drop forming every 30 seconds or so. It is obviously the big square top seal, but where do I get it from in the UK, and where do I get the special tool to remove the triangular bolt??

Despite all these the car runs great….it delivers the power a lot smoother than my E34 (which has the same engine) and it pulls a lot more aggressively from 0-30mph. If I floor it, the wheels spin on dry road…it makes me think….maybe it is a TDS with replaced boot lid .
So no real problems here, but I’d like it to idle quiet and I hate the leaks!!

Any ideas guys?????
 

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Do not remove the top of the pump (big square cover) without drilling and pinning it first,drill a hole at opposite corners with a very small drill bit,when you replace the cover you use a drill bit each end so the cover goes on in the same position it came off.Failure to do this can lead to very rough running,it affects the internal settings of the pump.Have a search on www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk for bmw pumps,lots of info on concerning this and one post with a picture/image guide of how and where to pin.To put things into perspective if the cover is replaced and it is say half a millimetre out the engine may well chuck out black smoke at tickover.
 

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OK

After giving up on my E34 525td I bought another toy BMW...the E36 325td.
Great car :hihi ....I think a lot nicer design...and it has been my favorite BMW. I remember it from when I was too young to drive and I always wanted one of them.

Anyway….my new toy has 2 small problems…..

a). I think the idle is too low…..it idles at around 600rpm and because of this it rattles a bit. If I touch the accelerator a little bit and get it up to 800-900rpm it sounds great!!!
How should I go about increasing the idle speed??

b) There is a small diesel leak from the top cover of the injection pump. I can see a little drop forming every 30 seconds or so. It is obviously the big square top seal, but where do I get it from in the UK, and where do I get the special tool to remove the triangular bolt??

Despite all these the car runs great….it delivers the power a lot smoother than my E34 (which has the same engine) and it pulls a lot more aggressively from 0-30mph. If I floor it, the wheels spin on dry road…it makes me think….maybe it is a TDS with replaced boot lid .
So no real problems here, but I’d like it to idle quiet and I hate the leaks!!

Any ideas guys?????



Doh! I'm in the process of replacing my engine due to the same fault:frown





Mine was filling up and leaking from the part that apperas to be a hole in the top of the pump kept causing it to cut out. One occasion it happened whilst I was passing a lorry on the Motorway:jaw-dropping
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm not removing anything at the moment....the fuel leak is relatively small, and the engine runs fine....The only thing i want to know is how to increase the idle speed a little....so it does not rattle.

I put it trough an MOT today and it sailed through with only advisory about the minor leak.

Smoke test results 0.41 which is pretty good when the limit is 1.50

I will get to the leak issue in due time or when it gets worse. as you see from my pictures its not that bad at the moment

By the way... I do know that removing the top cover will affect the pump settings in a mechanical Bosch pump with the throttle stem over the top cover.....is it the same for the BMW pump or this is just a plain cover?

but again first thing is ....how to increase idle speed?

thanks!
 

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Idle speed is set by the ecu and cannot be raised,although you could fit a stop somewhere on the pedal assembly to raise it,not sure if this would confuse ecu though ?,the triangle bolt can be tightened or loosened by putting/tapping onto it a (I think) 7mm socket.Check the clear pipe and the return pipe for leaks as well,it could be dripping from one of these and running down out of sight.A good clean up and a dusting of talc will show the area that is leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I Think the ECU will adapt to the change because when I push the accelerator a little bit the car tries to move going into gear, but then it stops and idles again at 800-900 rpm. If i keep the pedal steady it just keeps on idling just fine!!

Is there a mechanical cable going from the pedal to the injector pump like old cars have or is it "drive by wire"?
basically i would prefer to fiddle with a stop screw rather than the pedal itself.....

While trying to take the pictures i did actually realise I'm not so sure where the leak is ....the clear pipe has some grease like deposits around its fitting and the return pipe looks a bit wet too. I will investigate.....a bit more and go from there.

For the car is really running ok, and the only annoying thing is the ratling and the squeaky sound of the steering pump at full lock, which all disapear when the rpm is 800-900!

This is what I want to fix first! i thought maybe it was related to the leak...but I don't think so anymore....
 

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Its 'fly by wire' the connection block can be seen on the side of the pump.The clear pipe can leak around its union where it meets the pump ,either loose union or the pipe will develop a small crack,same as the return line out the rear of pump,mostly the main culprit for leaks is where the leak off hose connects to the return line as the rubber corrodes over the years.A lot of the oily mess everywhere will possibly be just a build up of power steering fluid,the return pipes to the main tank always leak a bit and pipes get oily,over time the vapour just coats everything around it.The egr valve (if the td has same setup as tds) also likes to leak a little oil and make a mess,and again over time this spreads itself around.
 

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The only way to be sure where the leak is coming from is to remove the inlet manifold and have a good look.

I had to have mine running to find the leak:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, 2000 miles later....good news and not so good news!!

Good News:
a) the power steering stopped squeaking :thumbsup although the idle is still low (in my opinion).

b) The injection pump leak has also miraculously stopped :jump

c) no unusual rattling going on in the engine compartment any more :bouncy

Something to do with the car standing for a long time before i buy it? :confused

Not so good news:

some ba...ds decided to steal my car while I was on holiday.
Partly my mistake as I left it at my friends house without the alarm on (did not have time to change the battery in the fob and could not activate it)

Anyway they only managed to do 1 or 2 miles as the trip meter indicates, because the police spotted that something was not right with 2 Scallies (aka Chavs) driving my car and went after them! They abandoned the car straight away!

£220 later the car is ok again with new locks and new battery in the fob.

Anyway...my real worry is this:
The other day I was accelerating on a slip-road, then eased-off as the car in front was going too slow. When pressed the accelerator again.....No power!!! Next thing...all the warning lights came on (engine cut-off).

Pulled over, switched off and then tried to start it again. It sounded like i run out of fuel.... so went to check the tank. It had around 15 liters in!! Back in the car....tried again a couple of times and "voila" it started again. 100 miles later,no problems....but I'm a bit worried now. What happened???

Does the E36 325td have a safety fuel cut-off system? because I've been told it might get activated due to turbo over-boost.

Any other suggestions??
 

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Ok, 2000 miles later....good news and not so good news!!

Good News:
a) the power steering stopped squeaking :thumbsup although the idle is still low (in my opinion).

b) The injection pump leak has also miraculously stopped :jump

c) no unusual rattling going on in the engine compartment any more :bouncy

Something to do with the car standing for a long time before i buy it? :confused

Not so good news:

some ba...ds decided to steal my car while I was on holiday.
Partly my mistake as I left it at my friends house without the alarm on (did not have time to change the battery in the fob and could not activate it)

Anyway they only managed to do 1 or 2 miles as the trip meter indicates, because the police spotted that something was not right with 2 Scallies (aka Chavs) driving my car and went after them! They abandoned the car straight away!

£220 later the car is ok again with new locks and new battery in the fob.

Anyway...my real worry is this:
The other day I was accelerating on a slip-road, then eased-off as the car in front was going too slow. When pressed the accelerator again.....No power!!! Next thing...all the warning lights came on (engine cut-off).

Pulled over, switched off and then tried to start it again. It sounded like i run out of fuel.... so went to check the tank. It had around 15 liters in!! Back in the car....tried again a couple of times and "voila" it started again. 100 miles later,no problems....but I'm a bit worried now. What happened???

Does the E36 325td have a safety fuel cut-off system? because I've been told it might get activated due to turbo over-boost.

Any other suggestions??
Everything is pointing at the pump mate, I will dig out my thread and you can compare the symptoms:thumbsup
 
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