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Discussion Starter #1
ok ive herd at some time ,sometreatment for rust, stuff you brush on and it goes black and sorts the rust out..?? i will get paint striper 1st. but what products are out there that you have used? not wanting to get a grinder to it!
 

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It doesn't work like that - You have to get the rust off with a grinder, then treat it with that stuff which 'kills' off the rust.

You can't just paint it on. The rust will carry on spreading.

Trust me !
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It doesn't work like that - You have to get the rust off with a grinder, then treat it with that stuff which 'kills' off the rust.

You can't just paint it on. The rust will carry on spreading.

Trust me !
ok. well if i get all the rust off with a grinder, all gone. wh would i nedd that..:confused
 

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Don't quote me on this, but I did a little reading a year or two ago about this, and apparently, when you grind off the rust, there's still little 'pits' in the metal (but you might not see them) where the rust is still 'alive'.... So when you primer it, and then paint it, the rust will set in again.

These rust treatments are acidic based, and 'kill' the rust off completely.
 

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you can buy a solution that turns rust back to metal rust converter

and than put waxoil over the top
 

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As others have said, if you don't get rid of the rust it will always come back. The 'converters' work within reason, they will stop light rust if you prep is correctly but don't expect it to suddenly fix that massive rotten arch.

My steps are as follows:
- Grind rust back with a flap wheel, not a grinding disc as this is too harsh.
- If the rust has left a pitted/black surface that won't come off after grinding then that means it's pretty bad and idealy needs chopping out and new metal welding in...however.
- Get some rust removing (REMOVING!) gel like the bilt hamber product, you slap it on and leave it to work. It will eat into any remaining rust and remove it. You'll need to repeat the steps several times to get it completely clean: slap on, leave, scrub off with wire brush, dry, slap on etc.
- It should leave a nice shiney surface, it will still be slightly pitted but they will be clean.
- I always then use a little bit of the rust 'converter' just to make sure it treats any microscopic bits that might be left. Again, bilt hamber sell this stuff.
- If it's outer bodywork then the normal steps of primer, base and clear.
- If not, then use something like a hammerite smooth paint, NOT the underseal as it's crap imo, OR waxoyl. Any wax type spray should only be used inside box sections/inside doors etc, not on exterior surfaces as it's just not designed for that.
 

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That kit is on the small side but should be fine if it is for rust on the fllor etc. I would not use it though if it is on the paint work, you will need a spray primer.

Where is the rust on your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
its on both rear arches, so some paint haas to come off inch or two from edge.. i just want the best gel to get rid of the rust!
 

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If it is on the arches, do as said use a sanding disc to take it back then a rust treatment followed by a few coats of spray zinc primer, then either paint yourself or get a bodyshop to paint.

If i was you i would also get up in the wheel arch clean well, scrub back the under seal then apply some por 15 or similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If it is on the arches, do as said use a sanding disc to take it back then a rust treatment followed by a few coats of spray zinc primer, then either paint yourself or get a bodyshop to paint.

If i was you i would also get up in the wheel arch clean well, scrub back the under seal then apply some por 15 or similar.
yea i was thinking right underneath the arch is gonna be hard to see if you got it all? my rar arches on both cars dont have a flat lip,they sort of go in then up at an angle,if that makes sense? oh and how do i get the side door trims off? just pull? sorry for all the questions: oh and whats por 15???embarrassed
 
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