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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone help on this one? When cold, it starts great, runs well and no problems at all. If I stop the car for a short time, like when filling up or a short stop at a shop, then restarting is a problem. As you would expect, the preheat lamp comes on and goes out immediately. When I crank the engine, it cranks for ages and ages before finally catching. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cheers, I'll try that out.

How does the expanding pump cause a problem? Is it the internals expanding and binding? Or is it the case expanding and perhaps causing a loew pressure situation, or does it promote an air leak maybe? Just curious to work out how it affects it.
 

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Common fault on e34 tds and rangerover and omega m51 engined cars,the pump runs hot at around 80/85c then starting when hot depends on how long the car has sat as to amount of cranking,this is due to fuel being hot and evapourating in pump and the fact that lift pump in tank only runs on start up when glow plugs do,ie cold start.All perfectly normal and no need to change injector pump.If you go on ebay and search rangerover hot start fix there is a relay device that fools hot engine into thinking its cold so glow plugs run,this lets lift pump run so fuel is delivered to pump before start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cheers Doug, I like the sound of the fix, but I can't find what you are looking for on eBay right now. I did a bit more searching and found a Landrover forum which went in to great detail about the problem.

Landrover forum here

It mentions the kit, but someone also mentions removing the lead to the coolant temperature sensor which will fool the ECU in to thinking the engine is cold and therefore allowing it to start as if cold. Effectively the same result as the hot start fix kit does. Obviously it would not be possible to run the car permanently like this but a simple changeover relay in the sensor line, in my view, could do the job.



Once the key is turned to ignition on, the CTS line is cut. When the engine starts and the ignition light goes out the relay deactivates and switches in the CTS, allowing the ECU to work properly.

What do you think? Feasable?
 

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My 325tds also suffered with this so I'm glad this topic has been raised. Thank you to the OP and those who have contributed valuable information:thumbsup
 

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ok my battery is fine but from what i see its the lift pump at fault so would a new pump work? or could i put a switch to the pump so i can turn it on when car is warm and them turn it of when started.cheers
 
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