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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there.

Just a quickie. I have a bit of a hum from the back there. Seems central. If the final drive oil needs changing could it make that hum? Also, to replace the ATF fluid, should I have the car on ramps and jacks to get the car spirit level even(ish)?

What's the latest and greatest stuff bmw recommend for fluid changes?

Final drive oil, atf fluid, power steering fluid and main motor oil?

Also about to change my fuel filter. Easy job?

Thanks!

:)
 

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Gearbox oil

Have a look for a label by your fill plug....
Orange label is Dexron 3 ATF
Green label is Special oil from BMW
Yellow label needs no change (lifetime fill)
No label is SAE80W GL-4

Synthetic 75/90 for the rear diff
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i just realised the innuendo in what i wrote initially ..

"I have a bit of a hum from the back there".

:lol
 

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What's the latest and greatest stuff bmw recommend for fluid changes?

Final drive oil, atf fluid, power steering fluid and main motor oil?

Also about to change my fuel filter. Easy job?

Thanks!

:)
Ronnie's set you straight on yoru gear oil.

(My g/box is the orange ATF lable, I use Castrol Dexron III. Its fine. In my Celica's that also required ATF fluid in the manual boxes, I used Comma/Autocare Dexron III, never had any probelms). Always change mine at every other service.

As for my diff and power steering fluid, I just use Comma. Again used this brand for the diff, p/steering for years and never had any issues.

As for main motor oil, personally I'd use 5w40 (Fuchs/Halfords/Valvoline/Millers XFS) or 10w40 (Fuchs, Valvoline, Millers XSS).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks guys. if it's lifetime for the auto trans i have heard that it's tested for 1'000'000 miles so it's pretty good to leave it as is ..
 

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thanks guys. if it's lifetime for the auto trans i have heard that it's tested for 1'000'000 miles so it's pretty good to leave it as is ..
:rofl

bollox! no oil is lifetime regardless of what anyone says. In fact the hand book should state that auto gear oil should be changed circa every 60,000miles. Trouble is this is not something that dealers adhere to!

I change mine at every other service, regardless of manual or auto box and my drive train always feels unlike any other, VERY smooth and silent, even from freezing cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
humming update! my friend sat in the back and said definitely the sound is noisier sitting on the left than the right.
 

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humming update! my friend sat in the back and said definitely the sound is noisier sitting on the left than the right.
Wheel bearings?
 

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Most likely wheel bearings, usually is, get the car up on stands and drive it in 4 gear while someone has a listen to each side
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks ronnie. is it ok to use axle stands on the rubber bits just under the jack points? it's an automatic too, so do i just put my foot down in drive?
 

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thanks ronnie. is it ok to use axle stands on the rubber bits just under the jack points? it's an automatic too, so do i just put my foot down in drive?
The jack points will be fine :thumbsup

And yes on putting it in drive and taking the revs up :thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sorry, just another question, can i use axle jacks and jack up just at both rear jack points and leave the front wheels on the floor when doing this? ronnie, what bits do i need to get to cure the wheel bearings and how much will this set me back? could it be that the hubs and bearings just need greasing?

:)
 

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You will be fine jacking the whole rear end up off the floor, stick some bricks under the front wheels to "chock" them.

Wheel bearings can't be greased, they lose the case hardening off them, causing the noise. You will need a wheel bearing like this, number 3 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=CB22&mospid=47441&btnr=33_0441&hg=33&fg=40.

Can be done without the special tools but it is a PAIN! not a DIY unless you are confident and know what you are doing, pretty much like this http://teamdfl.com/bmw/e46/rear_wheel_bearing/Page2.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ahhh i see. thanks for your advice ronnie. would it be better to get a new hub and swap the entire hub out that's making the noise for a quicker fix?
 

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ahhh i see. thanks for your advice ronnie. would it be better to get a new hub and swap the entire hub out that's making the noise for a quicker fix?
You could but you won't be able to guarantee the bearing that comes in it, if you are prepared to remove the entire arm then do that and get the bearing pressed out
 
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