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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

I am going to attempt to replace my wheel bearings at the weekend, Iv'e beem looking into what you need to do the job and am justtrying to get other peoples points of view on how they found it?

i found this link on how to do it on an E30 and to be fair looks pretty simple, or from what i consider harder or more fiddly things in the past (motorcycle mechanics)

when changing one side (because that all i'm doing) do you need to drop both inner CV joints from the rear diff?

Check out the link!

http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e30/rear_wheel_bearings/index.html
 

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dont bother, its one of those jobs that can take an hour or a day, i always work on my own cars but for this job take it to a garage, you may find that you strip it down to a minimum so you can get to the bearing but the bearing is so tight you gotta take the whole suspension arm off, get a new bottom control arm bolt and nut before you start. these have a habit of snaping. unless you have the time, another vehicle just in case, a garage and a big hammer, dont bother.
buy all the parts needed then take it to a garage, my local garage , good lads there charged me £50. worth it all day long.
thats my advice anyway :)
 

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bro, i saw that teamdfl link too. i have a whirring left rear bearing and i am going to have a go at it because i am that kind of person :p .. you can come along and do yours as well if you want.

i have a garage and a 12v impact car wrench with a max torque of 340 Nm and 3/4 11/16 13/16 and 7/8 sockets. i will probably cover myself with a bearing press or access to one on the weekend i do it and will put aside some bits in case the bearing race just sits there smiling at me not wanting to shift from the hub!

xpress :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
angle grinder time! for the race on the hub that is, thats the kinda person i am, i dunno a mate of mine done his beemer last night in his garage and ive got a motorbike as a backup but i'll prob just let him at it on the weekend, mot due so it needs doing asap,
Thanks for the invite mate but i dont fancie driving so far while the bearing is dying :) imagine a collapse on the motorway :eek

cheers tho, let me know how you get on!
 

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ah yea, didn't realise you're in bristol. how long has the bearing been whirring/humming for?

yea the angle grinder is a good way to go! :)

how common is it for bearings to collapse once they start whirring?
 

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I think the hub was moving around as the bearing was so knackered-you could really feel the car moving around on the road! Because evrything had so much play in it, the shaft was like a willy in a well--flapping around and hardly toching the sides and that created wear.

I have no idea how long he left it-but it was certainly 6 months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ive been using my bike in amoungst the snow and ice, it's been pretty interesting, the noise started like a slight squeek then picked up some pretty bad whirring noise after some fun in the snow :thumbsup

well i hadn't had the car too long so wanted to have a bit of fun before having to start the replacement of many parts to come, i generally dont fix it if it aint broke, but with the beemer i want to make it pretty sweet as it'll be my ride for the next few years (hopefully)

come on england!! ( sorry mid game)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
just had them fitted, the chap charged me £45 quid and i didn't have to get my hands dirty and have to beat my car up! :thumbsup
 

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Everyone keeps talking about using angel grinders to remove the inner race, may I offer a better solution .

yes use the grinder ,but grind almost all the way through , place bearing innner race against something heavy & solid & smack across the ground face with a chisel & V V V heavy hammer . because the race is brittle it splits & can be pulled off . The race will split before any damage can occur to the hub assy.

Used this technique on everything from motorcycles up to large plant machines

For the adventurous , try running a bead of weld around the inner race , the thermal shock quite often releases the parts .

Just passing on too many years of knowledge , hope it helps & stops anyone damaging parts cars & theirs :hihi
 

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Everyone keeps talking about using angel grinders to remove the inner race, may I offer a better solution .

yes use the grinder ,but grind almost all the way through , place bearing innner race against something heavy & solid & smack across the ground face with a chisel & V V V heavy hammer . because the race is brittle it splits & can be pulled off . The race will split before any damage can occur to the hub assy.

Used this technique on everything from motorcycles up to large plant machines

For the adventurous , try running a bead of weld around the inner race , the thermal shock quite often releases the parts .

Just passing on too many years of knowledge , hope it helps & stops anyone damaging parts cars & theirs :hihi
Due to the hardened nature of the race and it's brittleness, once thinned I have never needed the chisel, just the tap with the hammer

I like the weld idea, nice improvisation, just need to avoid splatter on the exposed machined surface. :thumbsup
 

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I did my rear bearing the other week without having to remove the arm.Just made a tool up from a video i saw on youtube and it worked a treat
 
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