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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I cannot seem to work out my tailgate locks.
There's no info in the E34 Owners handbook, and the Bently W/Manual doesn't help either.

I can only open my tailgate by the key - turned all the way anti-clockwise.
The centre press handle above the licence plate dosen't work no matter if the car is locked, unlocked or whatever.
When the drivers door is locked or unlocked, I can hear the tailgate solenoid clunk correctly. And also if I use the key in the tailgate to the clockwise direction, all the doors unlock.

So I always have to carry the key around to the back to open the tailgate which is getting to be a nuisance.
I would have assumed that if the car is unlocked, that the centre handle would open the tailgate without requiring the key.

Can anyone explain the correct working behaviour of the tailgate please?
 

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does the side handle work?

The centre handle should open the whole tailgate and the side one should open the glass section only

The usual (and common) problem is that the wires get chewed up by the hinges as all the tailgate wiring runs through the hinges and as it gets brittle with age is more prone to breakage...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So does the handle above the license plate mechanically open the tailgate, or is it an electrical switch?
The reason to ask is that mine doesn't have any resistance at all - ie: if its supposed to be mechanically connected, then its come off I think.

Yet when I turn the key lock all the way anit-clockwise, it definetly feels like a mechanical connection. (Perhaps this is so you can still access the bootspace if the battery power dies???)

The glass handle was working, but now isn't. So is there perhaps a fuse that covers the electric tailgate, or else I'll have to unravel the tailgate loom around the hinges to take a close look at the cables. They appear okay - plenty of flex and there's no shorts or sparking heard or seen, but I realise thats not conclusive.
 

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First check the fuses in the fuse box. I prefer to do this with a light tester as sometimes the fuse can be faulty but still look intact.

Then check the wiring that passes from the body to the tail gate



If all still appears to be well then you will need to remove the tailgate inner trim to expose the locking mechanism and check to see if anything appears to be amiss:thumbsup



PS pictures taken from E36 Touring:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks A20RYM.
Looking at the photo of the lock, it appears that there should be a mechanical connection but my handle is dead - no resistance or action at all.
Obviously I'll check the fuses first because the glass handle has stopped working as well but I'm starting to feel as if the rod has become disconnected.
Appreciate the photo - big help in knowing what to expect.
Best regards,
 

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Here are the components within the tailgate:thumbsup

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HJ62&mospid=47393&btnr=41_0839&hg=41&fg=60

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HJ62&mospid=47393&btnr=41_0833&hg=41&fg=60

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HJ62&mospid=47393&btnr=41_0840&hg=41&fg=60

Type in the last 7 digits of your chassis number where it says SERIAL NUMBER: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do this will enable you to search parts specifically for your vehicle:thumbsup

I've compared your set up to mine and they do appear to be different:frown

Hope this helps, Please post your progress:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What a terrific web site - thank you.
How are their parts prices?

I just ducked out of work and looked at the fuses and all okay.
Then realised I could hear the glass lock trying to open when its handle was operated. So after pressing down on the glass and starting the engine to get the voltage up a bit, it opened.
I adjusted the spigot and can get the glass to open/close reliably.
However, I noticed that with repeated operation the motor/solenoid that pulls the glass lock open gets weaker and weaker until it almost doesn't operate at all. Leave it for 5 minutes and its okay again.

So I'm guessing that either there's a bad earth to it, or the wires in the hinge are partially broken and the cable gets hot and lowers the amps/volts, or the motor lock is on its way out.

However, at least now I can get into the bootspace even if I cannot open the entire tailgate except by key.

I'm fairly convinced the tailgate lock has become mechanically disconnected, but thats a weekend job.

Thanks for the assist.
 

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What a terrific web site - thank you.
How are their parts prices?

I just ducked out of work and looked at the fuses and all okay.
Then realised I could hear the glass lock trying to open when its handle was operated. So after pressing down on the glass and starting the engine to get the voltage up a bit, it opened.
I adjusted the spigot and can get the glass to open/close reliably.
However, I noticed that with repeated operation the motor/solenoid that pulls the glass lock open gets weaker and weaker until it almost doesn't operate at all. Leave it for 5 minutes and its okay again.

So I'm guessing that either there's a bad earth to it, or the wires in the hinge are partially broken and the cable gets hot and lowers the amps/volts, or the motor lock is on its way out.

However, at least now I can get into the bootspace even if I cannot open the entire tailgate except by key.

I'm fairly convinced the tailgate lock has become mechanically disconnected, but thats a weekend job.

Thanks for the assist.
Glad to hear you've had a little luck;)

To get prices just copy the part number and paste it where it says " BY PART NUMBER " http://www.cooper-bmw-parts.co.uk/

Keep those websites bookmarked, they're an absolute gem;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gee I love daylight savings!
Decided to strip the tailgate apart as soon as I got home. Mine is not the same as the photo and is indeed an electric motor operated by a microswitch at the handle (hence the "dead" feeling).
There is a single rod across to the keylock - obviously in case of loss of power.

No voltage to the motor, but motor checked out okay.
Pulled all the wiring loom out of both hinge areas and carefully inspected - no problems/actually all good.

It's the microswitch at the handle.
Open all the time. Short the plug and the motor operates.
Believe it or not I had a microswitch that fitted exactly into the spot and so cut the leads off the defunct switch and soldered them to the new one.

Have silastic'ed the soldered connections and short loom and letting it dry.
Made some repairs to the trim while its all apart and letting that dry/set as well.
Will reassemble it all tomorrow and expect it all to work.

Thanks for the assistance.
Best regards,
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Fixed

All fixed.
Installed the new switch which I had in the parts bin (non-OEM but fitted exactly into place on the pins and held by the OEM clip).
Everything working as it should.
 
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