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Firstly, apologies if this is in the incorrect section, I have genuinely looked through all sections, searched and checked if already posted.

I am going to view a E36 320i at the weekend, while searching through this forum I've noticed there seems to be quite a large amount of problems arising, expected from an old car realistically.

I'm not paying much for it, and I've been told it's in good nick with just a few niggly problems. Firstly, the window isn't going up straight, I've been told this is is a common problem? Secondly, cylinder 5 on the coilpack seems to be on its way out, and this seems to make the engine lumpy when idled for a long time.

Are these fairly common issues, and are they anything to worry about?

If someone could give me a list of basic common issues with them so that I can look round the car and feel confident I'm not buying an absolute shed that'd be great.

Thanks in advance.
 

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BFuk Mankini Crew Member #1
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Viewing an 1992 E36 320i - What to Look For?

Not sure mate but iv been driving old beemers for 3 years now and the most expensive thing that's gone wrong on any of them was a thermostat and that wasn't broken just on it's way! But b carefull with the coil pack thing someone will be along to help soon
 

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my 320i seems fine to ive had it for about 2 years and the most expensive thing ive done is tax it!! lol if those are the only porblems and you get it for a good price once fixed it will be a cracking motor but like on any e36's check for any knocking in the suspension and make sure all the windows bar the faulty one are ok and check the service history:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info guys, sounding like there's not too much to look out for at the moment then! I'll do the obvious routine checks. If anyone has anything else to look out for it'll be greatly appreciated!
 

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Thanks for the info guys, sounding like there's not too much to look out for at the moment then! I'll do the obvious routine checks. If anyone has anything else to look out for it'll be greatly appreciated!
There is the old chestnut of the rear subframe mounting points and a careful examination of the relevant area is warranted, as repair may not be economically viable. Make sure the car is supported securely on axle stands when you look underneath, and you will have to get right underneath. Also take out the spare wheel and look at the back wall between the boot and passenger compartment. There are a series of welds here subject to corrosion. Also check around the jacking points there are four of these, removing the plug and shining a torch inside can often give an idea what they're like. Close by these and underneath the car there are four points for a trolley jack, these should be covered with a plug about 2 inches in diameter, take these out and have a look also. If the plugs are not present it does mean that they may be full of crud. The other areas subject to corrosion would probably be evident, edges of front wings, edges of bonnet, metalwork around the front grille, edges of doors, corners of the boot, underneath the boot lock, the sills, (rust in the sills can often be hidden by the bodykit, but I dont think this was fitted to all 1992 cars.) Check the front struts mounting points for mushrooming and of course corrosion. If it's not rusty and you buy it take steps to keep it that way. Not that these cars are particularly subject to rust, but keeping car bodywork rust free is of interst to me. I have a 1981 TR7 DHC that is rustfree, so I must be doing something right! Enough said! supercass
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There is the old chestnut of the rear subframe mounting points and a careful examination of the relevant area is warranted, as repair may not be economically viable. Make sure the car is supported securely on axle stands when you look underneath, and you will have to get right underneath. Also take out the spare wheel and look at the back wall between the boot and passenger compartment. There are a series of welds here subject to corrosion. Also check around the jacking points there are four of these, removing the plug and shining a torch inside can often give an idea what they're like. Close by these and underneath the car there are four points for a trolley jack, these should be covered with a plug about 2 inches in diameter, take these out and have a look also. If the plugs are not present it does mean that they may be full of crud. The other areas subject to corrosion would probably be evident, edges of front wings, edges of bonnet, metalwork around the front grille, edges of doors, corners of the boot, underneath the boot lock, the sills, (rust in the sills can often be hidden by the bodykit, but I dont think this was fitted to all 1992 cars.) Check the front struts mounting points for mushrooming and of course corrosion. If it's not rusty and you buy it take steps to keep it that way. Not that these cars are particularly subject to rust, but keeping car bodywork rust free is of interst to me. I have a 1981 TR7 DHC that is rustfree, so I must be doing something right! Enough said! supercass
That's excellent help, thanks a lot, I'll be sure to check all of these points, many thanks.
 

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I've noticed there seems to be quite a large amount of problems arising, expected from an old car realistically.
Looking at a forum isn't a good way to judge a car. It's like deciding if human beings are "a good design" based on making your opinion from what you see in your doctors waiting room or A&E on a saturday night only rather then tempering it with what you see in the street too.

If someone could give me a list of basic common issues with them so that I can look round the car and feel confident I'm not buying an absolute shed that'd be great.
Thanks in advance.
It's a 19 year old car, you should be looking at everyinch of it as if you were going over it to prepare for an MOT unless you would be looking a gift horse in the mouth.

There are many maldies that could befall an old car, rather than looking for the few that come out here look at everything, try every switch know and handle, wobble every joint, look at every tyre and inspect every inch of iron.

However, simple but awkward things like rear trailing arm bushes and front lollipop bushes can ruin the drive.

Barring it being for an M3, so ignore those bits, this gives you some idea
 
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