Fuel lines need checking to see is fuel getting to the engine.

 

thanks Edber,

I am going to start with the lines today (if it stops raining!!)

 

That's a very cool car, any photos?

Are you using fresh fuel? I'd check you're getting a spark, and if you've not already it's probably wise to check / change the oil.

...has it stored any fault codes? :silly

 

Hi Thomson,

I am using fresh fuel but I didn't change the oil... according to the book it was changed 2k miles ago and the oil level is ok. I had no chance to check the fault codes yet.

I am getting a new battery after work and I am going to check the fuel lines.
The engine and radiator were replaced in 2009 (I got the receipt)... Is there any difference between the silver and black engine blocks?

There is a lot of rust on the boot lid, not visible on the pics and the car could do with the full respray.

 

Very nice, I wasn't expecting it to be in such good condition

 

wow, that is in good condition, nice.
the 635csi has allways been one of my favourite bmw's.
+1 for the fresh fuel, after 5 years the fuel will be off, i bet you can smell it is off from the filler neck.
chris.

 

Thanks guys
Fuel lines checked - fuel getting all the way to the engine... I've checked the spark plugs and there was no spark at all. Changed them but still no spark.
Now I know there's no power in the coil. I've checked all the fuses and they look alright... Is there anything else I can do before taking it to the garage? :/

 

does it have continental fuses or blade?
the reason i ask is because continental fuses are know to corrode at each end and cause a bad connection.
if they are continental try new fuses, all of them, i can quite see from the pic.
chris.

 

Hi Chris - blade fuses

I've ordered new ones anyways... can I connect second battery directly to the coil and try to start it that way?

Pete.

 

well you can connect a live only to the coil, do not put the negative wire on the coil though.
the negative will have to go to the engine ground, you might just have an engine reylay power problem.
chris.

 

Uhh... Ignore my previous post - I bought a circuit tester and a new coil - the problem is that I get power from both + and - cables getting to the coil
what to do? :unamused:

 

yes you will do on that, coil has a constant live and is earthed out by the ignition amp or ecu... hmm 1986, has it got a distributor?
so long since i worked on one i cant remember lol.
chris.

 

i found this http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1986 BMW 635csi Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf

that will keep you busy lol.
chris.

 

Multimeter and start checking for lives at the fuses also DME relay and things like that

Also check for any alarms or immobilises cut out switches that you don't know about (yet)

Check for live at the coil, and that silly stuff like rotor arm is there

 

Thanks guys - it's raining season in Scotland (again) so I couldn't do much... I hope to check the rotor arm today.

I'll keep you posted!!

P.

 

If it's only turning over once and refusing to fire (as in the engine is only rotating once) it's unlikely replacing the fuel will help, although you'll undoubtedly need to do this.

Will it turn over by hand if that's the case? I'd be whipping the plugs out and spinning it over a few times to build up some oil pressure and checking it's not seized if it just rotates once then stops.

If the motor has gone lazy and it's spinning over without the plugs in that might be a helpful pointer.

 

My old 635csi had a problem once - the crank sensor fell out, bolt was loose - would not fire up

Read the thread briefly so sorry if the above is ignorant, just trying to help!! Good luck with it, awesome car!

 

I've checked the sensor - looks good. Got a new battery and the car turns with no problem.
There's no spark from the ignition coil so I've ordered a new one from Euro Car Parts yesterday... fingers crossed!!

 

Heeelp!! could anyone tell me if I can replace my current crankshaft sensor (left) with the new one (used my car's spec to get it)...it does fit into the wee frame. Is there any risk?
If I can't - where can I get the one like my old sensor?
I found one in U.S., but it's $150+shipping and prob 3 weeks waiting time
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Quick update - car is running. 2 x crankshaft pulse sensors (back of the engine) - part no 12 14 1 710 668, new spark plugs +cables. Happy days!!

 

nice one
keep us updated of further progress :thumbsup