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    #11
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    oldie's Car Details
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    Thanks STK for info I may spec out if I get my present problem sorted cheaply enough.
     
     

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    #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by StK View Post
    If you buy new then you can get them for 100quid+ but all you need to do is use it twice and its made its money back...You can continue to use it and do other BMW's with it too.It doesn't do the airbag though
    as he said. To do airbag stuff you need the SRS tool. Also expensive new as they also come in at over a hundred quid
    2002 325 Compact Sport ti M-Tec---- A little thanks goes a long way
     
     

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    watty17 (06-02-2011)

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    #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Whittaker View Post
    It's just a good idea to have an "initial" scan.... Something to work from, of course it does help if you know roughly how long it is since the memory was last cleared, as even a low battery voltage can sometimes be enough to trigger some sensor and mean that they are stored as "ghost codes" to pick up later.

    Looking forward to seeing your results mate, I am hoping to get my Peake tool soon (bought Mr Rym's old one) and seeing what information I can extract compared to the diagnostic equipment that I currently use. I am doing quite a bit with the BMW's right now and they are handy enough to keep in the toolbox, also the Launch equipment that I use only has the OBD II plug and I am having problems with Carsoft.
    Yeah ill post up the reaults when i get it done Kevin, should be good for a giggle i would think

    Quote Originally Posted by rumpleforeskin View Post
    mate just when your car was running mint you got something thats gonna say spend spend spend
    I know im just a glutton for punishent mate! Not running mint just now but i still love it.

    Quote Originally Posted by StK View Post
    Hey Watty you got Steve's peake reader Its easy to use plug it in get the codes clear the codes go for a run read again...I plug mine in every now and again just to have a look see,last one was a fuel pump relay and it turned out to be exactly that All good now,can't get a simpler tool to use
    Cheers StK, im sure ill suss it, just ant wait to use it

    Quote Originally Posted by oldie View Post
    Just read all this and am not familiar with a peake tool, presumeably it is a diagnostic device. Are they expensive? Putting the 520 on a dealer's cost £55 plus vat.
    Mines 2nd hand David but as StK said if you get a new one itll pay for itself after using it twice
     
     

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    #14
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    Well folks i finally got a chance to try out my new toy and im not getting anywhere, just my usual this last while. Im getting a display that wont read the codes and ive followed all the troubleshooting instructions and im stuck. Be handy if anyone can help me out like.

    Heres the link that the manual directs you to http://www.peakeresearch.com/fcxtech.htm

    Im getting problem number 1 and it says there was a problem with some e34s built before Oct 94 but mine was built June 95. Just wondering if ive missed something or theres something else i can try?

    cheers, watty
     
     

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    #15
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    Watty, a common reason for that error is when someone has tried a 'pin short' method of resetting service lights and hung the diagnostic bus. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and letting the ECU drain power as in 6)? If it doesn't work, then you need to have the bus reset by Autologic/DIS machine.
     
     

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    watty17 (17-02-2011)

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    #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by NealP View Post
    Watty, a common reason for that error is when someone has tried a 'pin short' method of resetting service lights and hung the diagnostic bus. Have you tried disconnecting the battery and letting the ECU drain power as in 6)? If it doesn't work, then you need to have the bus reset by Autologic/DIS machine.
    Ahh right, ill disconnect it tomorrow and see how i get on, cheers Neal
     
     

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    #17
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    Just a wee update guys.

    Diconnecting the batts made no difference so ill have to get it all reset by my mechanic.

    Ive been told by a couple of sources that this has probably happened because someones tried the old shorting trick with the wire probably to set the service lights.

    So there you go, dont try it as it just foooks it all up. And the new owner will be p"ssed off he cant use his new toy as well
     
     

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    #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by watty17 View Post
    Just a wee update guys.

    Diconnecting the batts made no difference so ill have to get it all reset by my mechanic.

    Ive been told by a couple of sources that this has probably happened because someones tried the old shorting trick with the wire probably to set the service lights.

    So there you go, dont try it as it just foooks it all up. And the new owner will be p"ssed off he cant use his new toy as well
    It's useful info for us so the next time some cheapskate says whats the trick we can refer them to this and to think all for the sake of saving 10quid on a proper reset tool..stil once its working again then you can reset oil and service lights with your Peake tool
     
     

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    watty17 (18-02-2011)

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    #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by StK View Post
    It's useful info for us so the next time some cheapskate says whats the trick we can refer them to this and to think all for the sake of saving 10quid on a proper reset tool..stil once its working again then you can reset oil and service lights with your Peake tool
    I know, some want want to run a bimmer while trying anything to save a ten spot, come to think of it, my reset tool was 7 quid off ebay lol
     
     

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    #20
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    I finally got around to plugging my "newly" acquired Peake Research tool into my M3 so that I can attempt to track down the slight hesitation/missfire when cold.

    As promised, here are the results. The car was cleared of all codes a few months ago by Chris Ransley at CRM Breakers using his Snap-on code reader when he also tested my vanos solenoids and emission pump, so I know that the codes that came up are genuine....

    First I got the table number 14, then codes 2C and 20....

    This translates to Active Oil sensor... I knew that one because the oil light flashes for about 20 seconds when I start the car, but I have the manual overide for the level sensor (dipstick)

    And the other code is Injector valve #6 - Is this the cause of the missfire I wonder?

    Obviously needs some further investigation... It's a starting point.
     
     

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