My DIS Error Codes Before And After Reset. What Next?

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  1. My DIS Error Codes Before And After Reset. What Next? 
    #1
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    Hi everyone,

    I finally got my error codes from DIS, here's what it picked up before I reset them:

    - ASC-41: Wheel Speed Sensor, Rear Right, Control Not Active
    - ASC-31: Wheel Speed Sensor, Rear Left, Control Not Active
    - DDE-08: Glow Plug System. Duration Relays Faulty. Sporadic
    - DDE-06: Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Pos. Deviation/Air Mass 50mg/Stroke Too Low
    Control, Exhaust Gas Recirculation. B1361_D3AGR
    Charging Pressure Sensor B1361_D3LDF
    1A MRS: Seat Occupancy Recognition
    1F LSZ: Activ'n, Motor For Headlight
    20 LSZ: Activ'n, Motor For Headlight

    I then reset them and drove for 5 minutes and re-read the codes:

    - 08 DDE Glow Plug System. Duration Relay Faulty. Currently Not Present
    1 at Engine Speed 188.0 rpm
    1 at Coolant Temp 12 oC
    1 before Op. Hours 25.7 h
    Last at Engine Speed 25.7 rpm
    ....
    Fault Frequency 50



    Some history:

    I have been having problems with no power at low revs and only managing 28mpg around town so have done all the filters including crankcase breather, fitted a decatted front exhaust pipe, blanked the EGR, placed some injector cleaner in fuel, cleaned MAF with CNC MAF cleaner and changed the oil.

    I'm guessing one of those errors was because I unplugged the MAF during cleaning? I read that such an error may not be the MAF so today I double checked for leaks by getting my gas bottle and torch out (for roofing) and blasted the engine bay with propane whilst running. No idle change.

    Further reading on MPG issues suggest it may not be getting up to temperature so I did the EGR thermostat test by blowing through it and I can breathe through it, quite easily but there is some restriction. I'm fairly sure it isn't the the main thermostat as the car get's to 90c+ within 10 minutes driving. Dashboard needle takes around 10+ minutes to get to 12oclock.

    Soooo, I was quite surprised to see a glow plug error. Can anybody advise me how to diagnose this error? I have a multimeter but will need lots of guidance if it's needed! I'm not a mechanic, just an enthusiastic E46 owner

    Also, can anybody explain the other codes I received before the reset? I didn't think my car had seat occupancy sensor, and the headlights seem to adjust fine. The ASC seems to working fine also so I wonder of the fault codes maybe weren't reset after the rear sensors were replaced. Is this common?

    Any help would be much appreciated as always.

    Regards

    Steve.

    Vehicle:
    E46 320d Touring 2001 (Y)
     
     

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    ASC wheel speed sensors can be forgotten about, they often turn up from wheel spins in the snow.
    The Glowplug controller / relay seems to be the likely problem for the glowplugs, EGR fault is from detecting the disconnected EGR valve.

    There are no clear clues in the codes, although MAF and MAP sensors can give issues without showing codes. 10 mins to warm up does sound a bit slow to me too.
     
     

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    stevenstead (11-06-2012)

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    Very much appreciated for the information TheEnd!

    I am little confused however (not hard to do). There are no visual sensors on my EGR valve, or the new blanking housing/valve. Can it still detect that I blanked it elsewhere? I did get confused with the MAF above as you can tell, because I did read that can throw an error if you run the car whilst disconnected but I see I don't have an error for that lol.

    If it's taking a while to warm up, would that point to the EGR thermostat that I can just about breathe through?

    It's typical that it may be the GP controller/relay, the most expensive part. Any way to check it before buying it as it looks like I may need a new MAF and MAP if I can't sort out this low power below 1800rpm and low MPG?

    Cheers.

    Steve.
     
     

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    The ECU calculates how much air would normally be taken into the engine at any particular speed, and checks that with the MAF readings.

    When EGR is on, the amount of air being pulled in will be lower so it figures out that there aren't any exhaust gasses in the cylinders.
     
     

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    stevenstead (11-06-2012)

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    If the temp needle is slow to get to 12 o clock position then its most likely the main stat but if it gets to 12 o clock quick enough and car is still not up to proper temp after 10 minutes then most likely egr stat.Do you know how to get into the hidden obc menu?you can view a digital readout of the cars temp while driving.I could blow air through my egr stat no problem so i got a new one and now i hit a steady 90c after roughly 5 to 6 miles and before i changed my egr stat my needle always went to 12 o clock quickly.
     
     

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    stevenstead (12-06-2012)

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    Quote Originally Posted by stevenstead View Post
    Very much appreciated for the information TheEnd!

    I am little confused however (not hard to do). There are no visual sensors on my EGR valve, or the new blanking housing/valve. Can it still detect that I blanked it elsewhere? I did get confused with the MAF above as you can tell, because I did read that can throw an error if you run the car whilst disconnected but I see I don't have an error for that lol.

    If it's taking a while to warm up, would that point to the EGR thermostat that I can just about breathe through?

    It's typical that it may be the GP controller/relay, the most expensive part. Any way to check it before buying it as it looks like I may need a new MAF and MAP if I can't sort out this low power below 1800rpm and low MPG?

    Cheers.

    Steve.
    It may be detecting a fault from the electric vacuum thingy that was supplying vacuum to the egr valve.I dont understand the reasoning of blanking the egr valve,are there really any benefits to doing it???i doubt it.The car came out of the factory with it so why dont people just make sure that its working and doing its job instead of taking it out of the big loop that is a modern engine.
     
     

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    Thanks edber.

    Always interesting to read the behaviour of other cars getting up to temperature.

    There is quite a bit of information out there regarding the EGR blank, and many discussions on 'for' and 'against'. Since mine has 170k mile and I'm doing all the services now, I was swayed in to the 'for' category. Also, I'm almost at desperation stage with my low MPG so will try anything to help with that.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by stevenstead View Post
    Thanks edber.

    Always interesting to read the behaviour of other cars getting up to temperature.

    There is quite a bit of information out there regarding the EGR blank, and many discussions on 'for' and 'against'. Since mine has 170k mile and I'm doing all the services now, I was swayed in to the 'for' category. Also, I'm almost at desperation stage with my low MPG so will try anything to help with that.
    Also check that your radiator blinds are closing when you start the car.I found that mine arent closing due to a failed electric valve,may also help the car get to temp quicker.
     
     

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    Blinds are working edber. I went through all the basics a few weeks ago to try and improve the MPG but to no avail. Last thing to check was the fault codes.

    Cheers.

    Steve.


    For reference:

    Binding brakes - OK
    Radiator blinds - OK
    Full service - OK
    Tyre pressures - OK
    Fuel leak - OK
    EGR clean/blank - OK
    Up to temperature quickly - Seems better than some but thermostats are next on my list.
    Glowplugs - Looks like I have an issue but research suggests they don't function unless it's 7degrees or less so shouldn't effect MPG overly.
    Diagnostic scan - OK
    MAF check and clean - OK
    Vacuum leak check - OK
    Exhaust leak - Front pipe flexi erroded, changed for stainless decat.
    No smoke on start up or whilst driving - OK
     
     

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    Ok steve all i can further suggest is that you take out the turbo and egr vacuum valves and on them is a little membrane filter that gets all black and give them a shot of engine degreaser cleaner to clean them.Also take out the map sensor at the back of the engine,its held on with one 10mm bolt and a electric connector,there is a hole in the centre of this sensor that needs to be cleaned,clean only with electric contact spray and dont poke anything into the hole just spray to clean it as best you can.Did my filters the other day and have better low down pickup now.As regards the two membrane filters just google and im sure you will find what im telling you about.Also egr stat is known to affect mileage as the car is running too cool for optimum performance.Take off the egr stat when car is cold and if you can blow into it without any resistance then its faulty.A new one will puff your cheeks as you try to blow through it.And id advise get it from main dealer.
     
     

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