How I got fault codes from E30 with an M40B16 Motronic 1.3

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  1. How I got fault codes from E30 with an M40B16 Motronic 1.3 
    #1
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    Ok,

    I've been trying to get the codes read for my slightly misfiring E30 with the M40 engine. BMW wanted £140 for it, so I sought other options.

    I'd heard of the stomp test...now I know that this was ready to work on US cars...it will work with some Euro cars with modification.

    I found out that you wouldn't be able to get just any OBD2 code reader and buy a 16pin to 20 pin OBD1 adapter to get the codes.

    I found a tool called the B100, which I now know is a copy of a tool made by Peake, they are both handheld scanners made to read the BMW factory codes to give us a good idea of what the car is recording when it finds something out of place/range (fault).

    I tried to read the codes with my B100 tool, all I got was E10 code. When I tried to reset the codes (just thought I'd give it a bash) it came up with E11. Both these codes mean that the device can't communicate with the car.

    I then found helpful Mr 'TheEnd' on this forum, with some very usefull information from him and some digging around we found that the pin that the ECU would have been connecting to the Check Engine Light (used in the US for reading the stomp test codes), was pin 15.

    The information source suggests that you plug the ECU and the ECU connector into a breakout box and use pin 15 to connect to a 12v bulb (simulating the CEL) and the other side to 12v (car battery).

    I didn't have such a breakout box, so I stripped a small piece of wire and fitted it to the ECU connector, snaking the wire as smoothly as possible out of the way and basically pushing it back onto the ECU, I then just connected the other end of the bulb to the car battery and had a go. It didn't work as it should: The lamp came on after the first release of the accerator pedal, and after the 5 presses on the pedal, it just stayed on...no sign of flickering...I tried many many combinations of timings but just couldn't get it to give me any codes. I tried turning the engine on and when it was runnung the lamp stayed on and pulsed regularly...about once a second it went slightly dimmer for a split second...this pulse was the same even when the rpm's were increased.

    I thought, just for the sake of trying, I'll plug in the B100 tool to check if it was still having issues communicating...it worked! It read that I had no codes ("--") I then disconnected the code reader, started the car and disconnected the AFM with the car running to get it to throw up a code, then I read the codes again and it came up with 07 code! I then cleared the code and it worked!

    The B100 tool couldn't reset the Service indicator on my car, but I traced all the connections checking for continuity along all the possible connections and found out that, on my 20pin adapter there was no pin connected to the Service indicator reset pin on the diagnostic port (pin 7), through to the 16pin OBD2 and therefore into the B100. So another usefull bit of digging and help from "TheEnd" I did the paper clip trick...with a wire connected to ground and pin 7 BUT before anyone tries this please read the link!!!! No one takes responsibility for any one trying it and it damaging thier car!...Although it worked on mine!

    So all is well!

    Thank you to all the really helpfull people on this forum! Especially 'TheEnd' in this case....

    Here are the links to the usefull stuff...

    http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=327491 (the Diag port on this link is not exactly the same as mine...there are some pin connectors-female bits, that it states as Not occupied, but they are on mine)

    For the stomp test: http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...-i-diy-t47837/

    Example of a stomp test on a US model:

    Attached (I hope) is a Motronic Schematic (still can't work out why this would make it work as the pin 15 has a diode in the circuit...anyone know this?) and the ECU connector diagram.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by soul4t; 04-04-2011 at 19:31.
     
     

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to soul4t For This Useful Post:

    Ian S (04-04-2011),steve23002 (04-04-2011),TheEnd (04-04-2011)

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  4.  
    #2
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    It seems that trying to activate or hook up the Check engine light reset the diag line, and the schematics show that they are separate lines.

    It's worth a shot if you have a Motronic and are struggling with getting codes out of it.
    Following the guide to get a working check engine light -
    http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...-i-diy-t47837/

    -may find another way to read codes, and could also act as some sort of reset to get everything working with a scanner.
     
     

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    soul4t (05-04-2011)

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    Ok,

    I was advised to properly test to see if my TPS (Throttle position sensor) was working properly. I thought it was fine as I could hear it click when the throttle started to open. The way that the TPS on this car works, is as a switch to tell the ECU when the throttle plate is closed, when it just leaves the closed position and when it's between 8 - 12 degrees of WOT (wide open throttle). To test it, you need to check for continuity between 2 of the three pins where the sensor is plugged in, at each position. With the Throttle body still on the car, take off the air intake elbow hose and remove it with the top half of the air box cover. Just under the Throttle body there is a black box (the sensor) with an elecrical connection coming from it (or going to it), press the metal clip and pull the connector off. You should see 3 pins. Test for continuity between the leftmost pin and the middle pin at closed throttle (if you don't have continuity, make sure that the accelarator cable is not over tight preventing the throttle plate from fully closing, you should hear a click as the sensor is in it's closed position). Now test for continuity between the rightmost pin and the middle pin as the throttle plate opens and make sure that it shows continuity when it is almost open.

    In summary, my TPS was faulty (not showing continuity at closed position).

    After replacing my TPS, I could use the code reader with no problems!

     
     

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to soul4t For This Useful Post:

    steve23002 (07-05-2011)

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    #4
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    should be able to diags your car with INPA and a correct ADS interface cable shouldn't you??
    330i sport a big chunk of berlin...

     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by dailydoggy View Post
    should be able to diags your car with INPA and a correct ADS interface cable shouldn't you??
    possibly, I know some of the E30s didn't have an official ADS plug, it was smaller, and was more of a breakout box for monitoring rather than internal diagnostics.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheEnd View Post
    possibly, I know some of the E30s didn't have an official ADS plug, it was smaller, and was more of a breakout box for monitoring rather than internal diagnostics.

    kinda guessed OP has an ADS socket on his as he mentioned using a cheapo B100 tool..

    an ADS interface or ADS/OBD switchbox interface he possibly be good to go with a cheapo lappy and INPA..
    330i sport a big chunk of berlin...

     
     

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    #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheEnd View Post
    possibly, I know some of the E30s didn't have an official ADS plug, it was smaller, and was more of a breakout box for monitoring rather than internal diagnostics.
    That was the earlier E30's, IIRC pre '87. I've used Carsoft on 1990 E30's before.

    Ian
     
     

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    Hi Guys,

    I have a 20 pin diag socket, I'm not sure what exactly an ADS socket would look like, is it just the term used for a diag socket that is live info compatable?

    I did have some INPA EDIABAS software from a guy off ebay, it claimed to work on E30's but the nearest option on the software was for the Motronic 1.7, which I belive was on the M42 engine. As mine's an M40 and alot of the E30's were M10, M20, M30 etc, I got a refund (eventually)! I had an RS232 to USB cable that didn't seem to work for using the data, I later read that the RS232 to USB doesn't work most of the time as USB doesn't use either the K-Line or L-Line or something...it would be great if someone could clear up my probable misunderstanding on this

    Thanks!
     
     

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    20 pin round is an ADS socket and you need an ADS serial interface or an ADS switchbox serial interface, USB ones or ADS to OBD2 interfaces wont work on ADS sockets as there is no 15L pin out which means it will not work properly..

    just had a butchers at my INPA and it starts at E31 so maybe its all to no avail anyway...
    330i sport a big chunk of berlin...

     
     

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    #10
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    Ahhh Ok,

    Thanks for looking mate!

    Ta,
     
     

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