Fault Codes on E46 330d - help please

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  1. Fault Codes on E46 330d - help please 
    #1
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    d-peg's Car Details
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    Firstly - thank you for everybody's help & contributions in getting my old laptop hooked up with INPA & communicating with the car.

    Moving onto what's wrong & how best to remedy Here's the pics of what INPA was telling me.









    So... I don't feel the coolant temp, glow plug (as it starts on the button) or EGR are anything to worry about but i think the 3rd one is a big way toward why it takes 2 minutes to reach 70!!!!!

    So any ideas where to start looking or what to start poking to fix the third code....
    "CHARGE-AIR PRESSURE SENSOR / CHARGE-AIR PRESSURE ACTUATOR"

    Thanks in advance
     
     

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    hi there,

    u need to check your turbo, got the same message when mine was blown. Could also be a vacuumpipe if yours has that solution for the wastegate.

    rgds

    Martin
     
     

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    d-peg (22-11-2011)

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    thanks Martin

    I will check it... Though through my fiddlings this weekend i ran it with the air filter off and can hear it spool nicely - so i can only hope it is the vac hose to the wastegate too. It was my thinking as well but wanted another opinion before i blurted it out

    Dan
     
     

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    Replace all your vacuum hoses first and clean the inlet manifold and MAP sensor then clear and re-test the fault codes. (change the broken glow plugs while you have the inlet manifold off)

    If you still have the same faults codes, swap the EGR pressure converter for the turbo pressure converter and see if the actuator fault goes away. If it does and you have 182bhp engine just block off the EGR vacuum hose, if it is the 204bhp model you need to replace the failed pressure converter.

    To test the turbo you need to take off the hose from the MAF to the wiggle the turbo shaft, there should be no in/out movement and up to 1mm of side to side moevement. The vacuum actuator should also move freely when you rev the engine

    The coolant heater is optional, it will take longer to warm up but is not really essential, get a second hand one from Quarry Motors if you want to replace it. It is the silver box in the coolant pipe next to the heater control valves which are the two pots on the front right of the engine bay
     
     

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    d-peg (22-11-2011)

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    thanks Matthew!

    Real comprehensive list there! Will get some new vac hose & attack the whole car this weekend.

    Furthermore I'm pretty sure I'm a 184hp - 2001(Y).

    How does the hose connect to the turbo from the MAF? I've had the MAF off top end but cannot see how it's hooked up at the bottom? Is there a Workshop Manual available for download? I have the proper Toyota one for the MR2 and has proved to be invaluable (along with saving a lot of little questions

    Cleaning the MAP sensor - what's recommended for that? (Carb cleaner / Brake cleaner i guess?)

    Might as well replace all 6 plugs as they're not that expensive
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by d-peg View Post
    thanks Matthew!

    Real comprehensive list there! Will get some new vac hose & attack the whole car this weekend.

    Furthermore I'm pretty sure I'm a 184hp - 2001(Y).

    How does the hose connect to the turbo from the MAF? I've had the MAF off top end but cannot see how it's hooked up at the bottom? Is there a Workshop Manual available for download? I have the proper Toyota one for the MR2 and has proved to be invaluable (along with saving a lot of little questions

    Cleaning the MAP sensor - what's recommended for that? (Carb cleaner / Brake cleaner i guess?)

    Might as well replace all 6 plugs as they're not that expensive
    If you take the MAF off the turbo hose will just pull off, it is held on with a push fit rubber gasket so dead simple job. Don't forgot to push the engine breather tube back on when you are done though, leaks oil that trashes the ARB bushes.

    Electrical contact cleaner is the best thing and jetwasher the inside of the manifold while you are at it (be prepare to be horified by the build up in there)

    Sadly for some off reason there is no Haynes for E46 diesels but if you search BMW TIS and then the subject like "M57 manifold removal" in google you will get the BMW workshop guides... obviously you need to know things like your engine number (yours being M57 and not M57N)

    Take care with the GP's they have a nasty habit of braking off, the key is keeping the socket as straight as possible in relation to the GP. If the worst coms to the worst there are kits out there to get the broken ends off.
     
     

  11. Fault Codes on E46 330d - help please 
    #7
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    Thanks matey ! Will report back this weekend with how I get on
     
     

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    matthew_henson (23-11-2011)

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    Just remember the dipstick is bolted to the inlet manifold and you may need to take the wiper motor cover off (behind the cabin filter housing) to get all the accoustic covers off. It is held on with two torx screws and two twist locks but you need to swivle it forward first then lift it out
     
     

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    #9
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    Yeah - found those little gems out last weekend when i changed the crankcase breather. Not too bad an engine to work on - especially compared to my V6 MR2 .... though i usually take the engine out to work on that as i can have it out in 90 mins
     
     

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