Diagnose for pre-95 E36's (OBD I) - DIY - Page 8

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  1.  
    #71
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    xXxStKxXx's Car Details
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    Quote Originally Posted by adyk View Post
    hi

    i know this is an old but on going post so hopefully someone can help
    i have a e36 316i on a l plate
    i have looked for the connector next to the fuse box but i do not have one :(
    only one i have is next to the brake fluid reservoir.
    am i screwed or is there another way for me to test for faults as my baby is not running right

    thanks in advance
    ady
    Connector is on the other side.Its by the drivers side strut nearby the brakefluid reservoir
     
     

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    adyk (24-02-2011)

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    #72
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    electrofelix's Car Details
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    Anyone know more about what pins/contacts can be used to complete the connections? Got the wiring routed from the dash though the firewall into the fuse box and down to the X20 connector.

    Rather than just do a poor job with some tape to attach the connectors, I'd like to get the correct pins for each end and crimp them on.

    Found what I believe are the correct ones on www.realoem.com, but not enough details there for me to work out how to order them from an electronics store (checked local store with very limited stock and they don't appear to have them).

    These are parts in question I believe:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=61&fg=15&hl=9 (61130005201)

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=61&fg=15&hl=9 (61130007452)

    Another know any more details about how to identify these parts in technical terms? i.e. besides "contact pin 20-24 awg".
     
     

  5.  
    #73
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    E36Coupe328's Car Details
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    Quote Originally Posted by electrofelix View Post
    Anyone know more about what pins/contacts can be used to complete the connections? Got the wiring routed from the dash though the firewall into the fuse box and down to the X20 connector.

    Rather than just do a poor job with some tape to attach the connectors, I'd like to get the correct pins for each end and crimp them on.

    Found what I believe are the correct ones on www.realoem.com, but not enough details there for me to work out how to order them from an electronics store (checked local store with very limited stock and they don't appear to have them).

    These are parts in question I believe:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=61&fg=15&hl=9 (61130005201)

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=61&fg=15&hl=9 (61130007452)

    Another know any more details about how to identify these parts in technical terms? i.e. besides "contact pin 20-24 awg".
    I think it's this 61130007570 from the second diagram.

    Well if you saw my posts with the pics of putting the pin in the X20 connector
    I can drop you one or two of those pins and a couple for the dash in the post if you PM the address.



    No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability accepted for any damage no matter how caused.





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    Free Gas Kit* now fitted to free 328*

    *Based on ROI period exceeded
     
     

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    electrofelix (24-02-2011)

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  8.  
    #74
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    electrofelix's Car Details
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    I think it's this 61130007570 from the second diagram.

    Well if you saw my posts with the pics of putting the pin in the X20 connector
    I can drop you one or two of those pins and a couple for the dash in the post if you PM the address.
    Went back over the entire thread, don't know how I missed them previously.

    Also missed the difference between the pins with a grommet and those without, thanks for the head's up on it.

    Got my hands on a contact pin for the instrument cluster end, only problem is that it comes with a wire pre-crimped. Since I already have the wiring in place, need to decide whether to spend time de-crimping, or splice the pin + wire into the new wiring that I've already run. Shame it doesn't appear to be possible to get the contact pins unattached.

    Will PM you about the pin for the X20 connector, thanks for the offer.
     
     

  9.  
    #75
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    As I already have my cluster removed figured I would add details on what bulbs are required. Car is a E36 '92 318IS, so YMMV.

    BMW Part No. Generic Part Description
    62131383311 R509TMBK Osram 12V 1.2W - black socket (default) - used for CEL
    62111391260 R509TMBE Osram 12V 1.5W - beige socket (Odometer Total/Trip) x2
    07119905358 W3W [osram ref: 2821] (not checked) 12V 3W (larger green socket used for these) (backlight) x3
    62111392983 Unknown bulb socket - possibly for the 3W bulbs


    Bulb Socket referred to by 62111392983 is listed on realoem, but it's not clear which ones it applies to. I suspect that it's only for the cluster back-lights which are 3W rating and as the socket used for these are larger than all the others, it's likely the bulb and socket come apart, while it's probably a whole unit for all the others. 1.2 & 1.5W ones didn't appear to come apart and I didn't want to try and force them. Forgot to check the 3W ones last night.

    Default bulb type is the 12V 1.2W. There was a max of 25 sockets that would take this bulb on my cluster, although only 16 had them fitted. This is the one required for the CEL.
     
     

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    #76
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    Try'd this re wire trick several times with no luck. My car is 1995 e36 328i. I wired number 8 (grey wire) at the round block under the bonnet next to the fuse box to number 16 (empty slot) at the clocks even used pins from a old loom i had but still nothing. I even try'd the bulb in every spare bulb hole but no illumination from a WORKING bulb

    Has anyone got this trick to work?
    What am I doing wrong???????????????
     
     

  11.  
    #77
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    TheEnd's Car Details
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    As far as I know, it's only going to work on the pre-95 cars, the 320i and the 328i.
    Get yourself an INPA lead, and you'll get fault codes and a whole lot more.
     
     

  12.  
    #78
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    It only work on Bosch ECUs. As TheEnd said, only pre' 95 320 and 325. I did it on mine, still works as it should.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

  13.  
    #79
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    So If I connect from battery 12v+ to an LED and the other side to the top side of connector pin 8 in the bmw20 connector and perform the stomp test the led should do the engine code output??
     
     

  14.  
    #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by x123xx View Post
    So If I connect from battery 12v+ to an LED and the other side to the top side of connector pin 8 in the bmw20 connector and perform the stomp test the led should do the engine code output??
    just read your "car details" what is wrong with the registration system ?
    what you have written is not going to help members help you is it ............
     
     

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