Diagnose for pre-95 E36's (OBD I) - DIY - Page 7

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    #61
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    Well, if you come to think about it, you can make some connections.. if it's an air leak (lean mixture), than your idle should be going up and down. So if idle is all right, than you can think about something else. If it's your FPR, again, idle might be a bit lower than usually and exhaust tips will be black. If it's not the case, you can move on. These are just general examples, just to give an idea how you might use these codes for troubleshooting. Try to think of the more likely things to happen (like hose splits in these case or lambda itself), rather than things less likely to go wrong (like injectors, intake/exhaust valves etc).

    And more specific on your problem: I had the exact same code when I first done the mod, but to me it was a lot easier. I already knew that my lambda sensor was shot so I just bought a new one and fit it. Problem solved. I think that might be your case as well, especially if your car has high-ish mileage and oxygen sensor has never been replaced.

    Hope it helps and good luck with your diagnose!
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    Well, if you come to think about it, you can make some connections.. if it's an air leak (lean mixture), than your idle should be going up and down. So if idle is all right, than you can think about something else. If it's your FPR, again, idle might be a bit lower than usually and exhaust tips will be black. If it's not the case, you can move on. These are just general examples, just to give an idea how you might use these codes for troubleshooting. Try to think of the more likely things to happen (like hose splits in these case or lambda itself), rather than things less likely to go wrong (like injectors, intake/exhaust valves etc).

    And more specific on your problem: I had the exact same code when I first done the mod, but to me it was a lot easier. I already knew that my lambda sensor was shot so I just bought a new one and fit it. Problem solved. I think that might be your case as well, especially if your car has high-ish mileage and oxygen sensor has never been replaced.

    Hope it helps and good luck with your diagnose!
    i have a specific problem, that i believe is now ECU related, due to it disappearing randomly.

    http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...ration-t61959/

    when i did the oil in the cylinder test for the compression, i had a very smooth engine for 30 seconds till the oil burnt off. (leaning off a rich mixture maybe)

    in the evenings when i take the misses shopping i have 2-3 short journeys (at normal running temp) which involve leaving the car for 10-20 minutes which causes heat soak somewhere and also gives me a minute of smooth running. (heat soak into the engine mounts in this cold weather maybe or heat soak into the lambda sensor)

    i have checked and measured today, the blue ECU temperature sender, the AFM temp sender (at the ecu plug) all good to spec values.

    I also had 30 seconds of smooth running after i changed the coolant a few days ago. car was on ramps for 1/2 hour bleeding the air out, temp in the middle of the gauge backed it off ramps, had a smooth engine for 30 seconds again (more heat soak somewhere possibly)

    on a cold start warm up cycle i have a non petrol smelly exhaust up to about 1/3 on the temp gauge then it starts to smell, which then disappears at normal running temp. (mixture not leaning off fast enough is my guess)

    i have a new lambda sensor, however current weather condition prevent me from fitting it as i have no garage, and don't feel like lying in freezing puppy slush trying to change it.

    No air leaks anywhere as i have had all the hoses off and changed a few that looked a bit worse for wear, idle normally steady as a rock.

    Apart from the 25mpg and the varying degrees rough vibration from the engine (which has been better lately) i cant find nothing wrong?
     
     

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    #63
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    hey all, have oinly had my bmw a few months (first old car like this!). where you describe 'wiring' pin 8 across to pin 16 at the rear of the instrument cluster, is any standard wire ok or is there a specific wire / method of wiring the two together?

    cheers.
     
     

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    #64
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    Mine was fixed with Lambda change, elimination by substitution is still a valid method.

    Potentially useful Links:
    http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...change-t68293/

    http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f9/1994-e36-325-oct-coupe-fault-code-1221-t61991/


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    #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by littlespuddy View Post
    hey all, have oinly had my bmw a few months (first old car like this!). where you describe 'wiring' pin 8 across to pin 16 at the rear of the instrument cluster, is any standard wire ok or is there a specific wire / method of wiring the two together?

    cheers.
    yes mate, any wire will do!
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #66
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    Hi, I think that 1995 e36,s are OBD1 if they have bosch ecu and OBD2 if they have siemens ecu . I found this in the Bentley manual. Hope it helps.
     
     

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    #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinger68 View Post
    Hi, I think that 1995 e36,s are OBD1 if they have bosch ecu and OBD2 if they have siemens ecu . I found this in the Bentley manual. Hope it helps.
    Not exactly, some siemens are OBD2, some not.

    Now the Siemens ECU hardware is capable but if it isn't speaking the OBD2 language, which is actually the one thing it must do to be OBD2 then it's not.

    It's like looking at the outside of a PC case and saying that's running Windows when it could equally well be running Linux


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    #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinger68 View Post
    Hi, I think that 1995 e36,s are OBD1 if they have bosch ecu and OBD2 if they have siemens ecu . I found this in the Bentley manual. Hope it helps.
    Check out this thread!
     
     

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    #69
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    hi

    i know this is an old but on going post so hopefully someone can help
    i have a e36 316i on a l plate
    i have looked for the connector next to the fuse box but i do not have one :(
    only one i have is next to the brake fluid reservoir.
    am i screwed or is there another way for me to test for faults as my baby is not running right

    thanks in advance
    ady
     
     

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    #70
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    Can you post a picture of the connector?
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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