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    #51
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    Cheers dude.

    I have 20 more pins spare if you want a couple throwing in the post as a thanks.


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    #52
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    cheers mate, appreciate it, but i already fixed it. but thanks again! i haven't used a proper pin, but made a hole through the bung and fitted the wire through it, then a small bit of silicone and voila! sorted!
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    When there are no more codes to be read, the computer will give the code 1000, which is one short flash, and then the light will remain off. Then the check engine light will flash a half-second and then turn off. To read the codes again, simply turn the ignition key off and on again and repeat the procedure with the gas pedal (five times within five seconds).

    To erase the fault code memory, first make sure fault code 1000 (short blink and then light goes out for long period) is present, then depress acellerator fully for at least 10 seconds. Read fault codes and check for 1444 code (no faults stored).
    Just noticed, my car appears to cycle through the codes repeatedly forever. so this is a variation on the above, not sure if I can clear the fault codes will have to see!


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    #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    Just noticed, my car appears to cycle through the codes repeatedly forever. so this is a variation on the above, not sure if I can clear the fault codes will have to see!
    yea, i know what u mean, mine does the same thing. disconnect the battery, leave it for 5 min, then connect it back, put the ignition on (without actually starting the engine, obviously) and run the diagnose again. it will definitely throw the 1000 (one short flash) code. you'll then be able to clear the codes by flooring the pedal for 10 sec. keep the accelerator depressed until the CEL doesn't flash anymore, but stays on. that means you have cleared all codes. after that, you can start the engine. if there are no more faulty bits on your car, it will always go on on ignition and off when start the engine. if it does go on again, after you started the engine (it might not go immediately on, might take few miles for the ECU to find a harder to spot fault), that means you still have a fault in the car, run the diagnose again and see what it is. good luck!
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #55
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    Hiya, doesn't quite make sense, I get that battery off clears codes but the battery will have been off in the past so either it clears off the pedal or not. Sorry just working out the logic.

    Actually I do have a good question, as the CEL is a switched earth is the live to the bulb ignition live or permanent live?

    As it's not on the UK cars it's not in my wiring diagram :(


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    #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    Hiya, doesn't quite make sense, I get that battery off clears codes but the battery will have been off in the past so either it clears off the pedal or not. Sorry just working out the logic.

    Actually I do have a good question, as the CEL is a switched earth is the live to the bulb ignition live or permanent live?

    As it's not on the UK cars it's not in my wiring diagram :(
    i didn't really understand the question, but only removing the battery won't clear the codes. you have to enter diagnostic mode and keep the pedal pressed for 10 sec. although, removing the battery will throw that 1000 code, allowing you this way to clear the codes. dunno why without removing the battery, the ecu won't give that 1000 code and will keep on showing the same fault, though..

    regarding the CEL, i don't have a diagram either, so can't really offer an answer on that, sorry.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #57
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    The simplest solution is connect it to the first accessory position of the ignition, just so you don't have a permanent live wire hanging about the engine bay.
     
     

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    I have done this mod to a 1993 316i, the 20 way connector is under the battery tray and i used a LED with resistor for the light and the switched live on the radio (it was the easiest one to get to). However i have only the 1444 code, i tried unplugging the Cam position sensor and driving round to see if it would throw the the code for missing CPS but all i get is the 1444 still. So i don't know if its actually capable outputting the codes?
     
     

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    #59
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    it works on mine.. i've had a "bad dme" code when i used a different software for the ecu, i also had a code for the oxygen sensor, when my car was running rich. so i presume it does work.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

  11.  
    #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by lemmy99 View Post
    I have done this mod to a 1993 316i, the 20 way connector is under the battery tray and i used a LED with resistor for the light and the switched live on the radio (it was the easiest one to get to). However i have only the 1444 code, i tried unplugging the Cam position sensor and driving round to see if it would throw the the code for missing CPS but all i get is the 1444 still. So i don't know if its actually capable outputting the codes?
    woot, does work, it throw a 1222 yesterday, not really helpful as that code covers so much ground it's like the ECU saying "hay there's something wrong, but I'm f***ed if in gonna tell you what it is".

    1222 Lambda Control 1
    This code is stored when the DME detects excessive
    deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer
    than 10 seconds. Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty,
    Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked,
    Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak,
    Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meter
    defective and/or the combustion is being disturbed by
    mechanical failure (Spark plugs,, compression,
    intake/exhaust valves, ...etc.)

    rofl
     
     

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