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    #41
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    E36Coupe328's Car Details
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    Quote Originally Posted by swaynie View Post
    So as all the 328i ecu's are obd2 would a obd2 reader work i know i dont have the slot under the dash but could i use the 16 pin to 2 bmw pin socket with a reader?
    Just because the unit is capable of being OBD2 doesn't mean it will. It's a computer following a firmware program and if it's not programmed to respond to OBD2 standards it won't work.

    If you like it's like people. People are people but you're unlikely to get anything worth while speaking English to someone that speaks Czech. You have to have a language or protocol in common.

    Very sure my July '95 328 is ODB1 too


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    #42
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    Bright side the 1994 325 Has one of these: RMFD Basic control unit DME M3.3.1

    Basically Motronic so this should work? Oh yeah, what's RMFD stand for?

    So questions:
    • Can this plug be separated with the battery on or is it a disconnect?
    • Is the wire I need to connect to in the top or bottom?
    • Anyone got a diagram as just slipping a terminal in the bottom if that is empty sounds like a winner?




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    #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    Bright side the 1994 325 Has one of these: RMFD Basic control unit DME M3.3.1

    Basically Motronic so this should work? Oh yeah, what's RMFD stand for?

    So questions:
    • Can this plug be separated with the battery on or is it a disconnect?
    • Is the wire I need to connect to in the top or bottom?
    • Anyone got a diagram as just slipping a terminal in the bottom if that is empty sounds like a winner?
    Anyone know the answers to the above?


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    #44
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    RMFD is remanufactured, ie if you buy one now, it'll probably be old stock, refurb etc..

    You options on that plug is pull back the rubber on top, or get to it from underneath.
    You should be able to twist the outer ring to release it.
    You can do it with the battery still connected, just don't start poking jumper leads into various plugs as you might find one will start the car.
     
     

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    #45
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    Lol, Think I'll split one on a scrapper and if the wire is in the top find a terminal of the correct size to insert in the bottom as I believe that's empty and test the theory there.

    Just being lazy as if I can take someone else's knowledge and save myself re-inventing the wheel I will.


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    #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    Lol, Think I'll split one on a scrapper and if the wire is in the top find a terminal of the correct size to insert in the bottom as I believe that's empty and test the theory there.

    Just being lazy as if I can take someone else's knowledge and save myself re-inventing the wheel I will.
    if you live, or come, anywhere near luton, i'll gladly help you with that. if not, as previously mentioned, split the round connector in 2 by twisting it, the upper one will have a wire connected to pin 8 (coming from the ECU), the lower one won't. stick a wire in the 8 pin (it's a hole, not really a pin, like the holes pins are are supposed to fit into), and run it to the pin 16 in the white connector, behind the clocks (you need to remove the cluster panel). there's a pic of it in the first post. not really that hard, just need to get to work and you'll find it pretty easy. good luck!
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to mistreku For This Useful Post:

    E36Coupe328 (10-10-2010)

  9.  
    #47
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    Cheers for the offer. I'm just being soft for a change. I do stuff like this without braking a sweat and no stranger to EFI



    Just don't want to fry the car making a rookie error as not sure what I can get away with, with these yet.

    Anyway, slipped the X20 off the fuse box and pulled the bung. Next step is to get a terminal and rig it up short in the engine bay to test before pulling tha dash as I can coincide that with the OBC wires I need to add.






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    #48
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    Thanks to mistreku for the original post enabling me to do this.

    No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability accepted for any loss, no matter how incurred from reading this or attempting to follow what I have done. This is merely how I addressed an issue on a car and I am not recommending this process.


    Acquired a spare X20 or whatever it is called.

    Here you can see the clip you push to release it from either the side of the fuse box, or under the battery tray on the 4 cylinder models.




    Undoing the thin locking ring in order to remove it from the bracket.




    There is an internal locking ring, highlighted between the two red rings. Without rotating this pins cannot normally be removed or inserted.
    A pipe of the right diameter cut away to leave two protrusions opposite each other would be ideal to slacken this but there might be indications due to "rachet" bits that is should only turn one way, so maybe single use.




    Here you see its position in the cut away connector marked by the arrow.




    Here you see the raised bits brought into play by rotating the ring to secure the terminals. Note that the terminals also have barbs and significant pressure is required to remove them once the ring is released.




    I have about 20 of these pins spare now.




    End of "off car" preparation. Actual work starts here.

    I filed a a flat on the open side of the pins collar and raised the barbs to a) skip the locking ring issue and b) ensure it was secure.
    Carefully pushed it in ensuring the correct orientation for the flat and shoved home with snub nosed needle nose pliers to spread the force and insert without damage to pin or sealing rubber.




    For first test I used a pretty good test lamp. This one connects to both live and earth. Has a red power LED and lights an additional RED LED when touching LIVE and a GREEN LED when touching EARTH. As "The End" said this goes to earth I expected a green light. I used this device as it has a very high resistance so in the event of an issue minimal current would flow reducing the risk of damage.

    I temporarily connected the "tail" from pin 8 to the probe end and insulated it.




    Ignition key turned to position 2 (ignition lights) without starting, pedal stamped 5 times and a series of flashes resulted.


    I have not followed this through to a full bashboard light as I wish to fix the 1221 "Lambda (O2) Sensor 1" error, which I suspected before doing this and has now been confirmed, to save staring at a warning light.
    Last edited by E36Coupe328; 09-10-2010 at 21:12. Reason: Still taking out typos


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    mistreku (10-10-2010)

  12.  
    #49
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    Demo..........

    Long flash = Start / end / separates the repitition of all codes.

    Click here to see the flashes


    So that makes:

    Flaaaaaaaaash - flash - flash flash - flash flash - flash - flaaaaaaaaash

    1 - 2 - 2 - 1

    Error 1221!
    Last edited by E36Coupe328; 10-10-2010 at 03:27.


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  13.  
    #50
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    that's it mate! proper job! glad to hear you sorted it out.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     


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