Diagnose for pre-95 E36's (OBD I) - DIY - Page 2

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    #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumpleforeskin View Post
    great write up but if your car is 1995 how do you know if your cars obd 1
    I'd like to know this too !
     
     

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    #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumpleforeskin View Post
    great write up but if your car is 1995 how do you know if your cars obd 1
    Quote Originally Posted by Ferret View Post
    I'd like to know this too !
    since my car is a '93 reg car, i haven't really researched this OBD thing, this are just a few things that got into my head along time, so don't quote me on this, but i think both your cars are OBD II. the difference is the ECU programming, the OBD-II are more restrictive and emissions friendly. IIRC, there's no 328i OBD I. also, i think OBD I have no EWS, and for the 6 bangers, the intake is also a clue about the OBD. the free-flow ones are OBD I, the others (M52) are OBD II. basically, all M50 (320i and 328i) bangers are OBD I. also, pre' 95 316i, 318i/is and 3.0 M3 are OBD I as well.
     
     

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    Right i have had a look in the engine bay and the only connector i can find is the 20 pin in the pic that they plug the diagnostic machine into, not the other 20 pic that you say to use on the opposite side of engine bay, see pic of bay.

    in the 20 pin diag port pin 8 is not connected, meant to be a grey wire and looked at wires going into the port and there is no grey wires.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 318i View Post
    Right i have had a look in the engine bay and the only connector i can find is the 20 pin in the pic that they plug the diagnostic machine into, not the other 20 pic that you say to use on the opposite side of engine bay, see pic of bay.

    in the 20 pin diag port pin 8 is not connected, meant to be a grey wire and looked at wires going into the port and there is no grey wires.
    that's a different connector, you won't be able to use that. i think the 318i uses a different connector for diagnose, called c101, but i'm not sure. i'm sure there are plenty of knowledgeable guys here, who will help you with that. i really can't help with this, as it's out of my knowledge.
     
     

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    Tried this on my mate's 1992 325i today - no joy!

    Is there supposed to be a grey wire already connected to pin 8 of the X20 connector? There was on his - we wired the new wire in parallel with this rather than breaking the circuit. I assume it was the correct connector, as there was only one sat next to the fuse box!

    His cluster also has just an opaque black panel where the 'check engine' light should be, although there was a space for a bulb.
    ~ Steve

     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy328 View Post
    Tried this on my mate's 1992 325i today - no joy!

    Is there supposed to be a grey wire already connected to pin 8 of the X20 connector? There was on his - we wired the new wire in parallel with this rather than breaking the circuit. I assume it was the correct connector, as there was only one sat next to the fuse box!

    His cluster also has just an opaque black panel where the 'check engine' light should be, although there was a space for a bulb.
    yes, it's suppose to have the grey wire at pin 8, and you're supposed to wire that to the pin 16 in the white connector. definitely the correct connector. why do you say it's not wrking? did you put a bulb in the check engine slot? i heard some other ppl as well, saying that their CEL is blanked. i guess you could make a small hole maybe, in the blanking panel? so you could see the flashes? it definitely works, i've done it on mine, and few other ppl too, on their. and worked for eveyone.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    why do you say it's not wrking?
    Because nothing at all happens, and we ran through the pedal presses so many times out legs pretty much fell off.

    Bulb fitted (and tested as working), and mods made to make sure that it would be visible if it worked. Tested all the wiring for continuity in situ after it was fitted, and all was fine.

    This grey wire in pin 8 - does this remain plugged into pin 8 and the wire to the cluster tap off in parallel from that, or is it disconnected from wherever it disappears off to and then joined directly (as in pin 8 there connects directly, with the grey wire pretty much disconnected) to pin 16 of the white connector on the cluster?

    Out of curiosity, what does that grey wire normally do exactly? No voltage of any kind seems to go through it regardless of key position or engine running.
    ~ Steve

     
     

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    afaik, is wired topin 8 in the ecu, and is only used for the diagnose. i dont really understand what you mean by this "parallel wiring" but let me put it this way: imagine your cel light wired directly to pin 8 in the ecu connector. is how the light should work. if you had a wire comming straight from pin 8 in the ecu to the pin 16 in the white connector, then you should see the CEL comming on when you switch the ignition. but euro spec e36 only has half the wire, from pin 8 ecu to pin 8 x20. if you continue from pin 8 (x20) to pin 16 in the white connector, you should be all right. if not, maybe there's something worng with the instrument cluster, especially since you said the CEL was blanked. maybe it's missing some wiring inside, i dunno. i think you should take a wire from pin 8 and measure if there's any voltage when you switch the ignition on. but try it with the 2 halves of x20 fitted together, not split. there should be some voltage in it with the ignition on.
     
     

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    Ah, I think I just assumed that pin 8 was connected to something else on the bottom half of the connector and continued onwards from there, so adding another wire to pin 8 would be creating a parallel circuit. We went into the top half and connected directly to that grey wire, and didn't look underneath at all.

    Couldn't measure any kind of voltage on pin 8 at any time regardless of ignition position, so it might just be dead on his car. Wouldn't surprise me!

    At least it was a damn good excuse to get the cluster out and remove the dead bug which had been sat in front of his speedo behind the plastic for a while!
    ~ Steve

     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy328 View Post
    Ah, I think I just assumed that pin 8 was connected to something else on the bottom half of the connector and continued onwards from there, so adding another wire to pin 8 would be creating a parallel circuit. We went into the top half and connected directly to that grey wire, and didn't look underneath at all.

    Couldn't measure any kind of voltage on pin 8 at any time regardless of ignition position, so it might just be dead on his car. Wouldn't surprise me!

    At least it was a damn good excuse to get the cluster out and remove the dead bug which had been sat in front of his speedo behind the plastic for a while!
    if you can't measure any value at pin 8 with the ignition on, then it must be the loom. coz everytime you switch the ignition, the CEL will light and, if there's no faults, will go off. so i'm pretty sure there should be some voltage running through it it the ignition on. if he really insist on the obd, he has to wire from the pin 8 in the ecu connector. but first should check for continuity from pin 8 ecu to pin 8 x20.
     
     

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