My first BMW and nightmare of 2A67 and 2A6B fault codes - Page 2

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    #11
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    Arfan's Car Details
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    I know they are pain and there was BMW trying to be innovative!

    Surprised your ecc sensor was not plugged in! I have read that peeps disconnect those sensor to get around the VVT motor problems.

    Right am going to order that VVT motor and then replace it.

    I will keep you guys posted.

    Thanks for your help so far.

    Cheers
     
     

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    #12
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    That'll be the reason why mine was unplugged then!
     
     

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    #13
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    Hi All,

    Apologies for not providing you all with an update, its been a hectic few weeks. Anyway i managed to source a second hand valvetronic motor from Ebay. This time i took my car to a well trusted mechanic, a chap called Anwar located off manningham lane, bradford.
    He swapped the motor out and also noticed that one of the earth wire was not connected - no doubt a mistake from the previous mechanic i took the car too!
    Once motor replaced and oh yeah and earth wire reattached, i can confirm my car is running like a dream. NO MORE ERRORS.

    So in conclusion if you have the same fault as mine, rather spending pounds on idiot mechanics who suggest replace all sorts, first thing you should do is replace the VVT motor.

    And check this out, i only paid 75 quid for the motor and my trusted mechanic only charged me 40 quid Labour.

    The previous chap was a so called BMW specialist...in actual fact he is an idiot.

    If anybody has the same fault and is based in Bradford then let me know and i will advise which garage to use and which idiot to avoid.

    Thanks all , hope the above helps.
     
     

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    #14
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    makkan00's Car Details
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    Thanks Arfan for updating this.
    I just wonder if one should need to change the ROCKER COVER GASKET?
    You cannot change the VVT motor without removing the rocker cover gasket. So shall we be changing the rocker cover gasket.

    (P.S: I changed my rocker cover gasket only last year).
     
     

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    #15
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    Quick update.
    I had same errors as Arfan. Funny thing is that I parked the car on a road facing down with engine running and error appeared.
    I cleared the error but it returned few days later.
    Apparently part number 7 get faulty and let the oil come out of rocker cover. That oil can go to eccentric shaft sensor socket. I had this gasket (part 7) changed last year but its still dribbling oil, which shows that they go faulty easily.

    I had some oil in the socket of Eccentric shaft sensor which I cleaned with the can of compressed air. Cleared the faults and its running smoothly.
    I have already ordered VVT servometer motor and eccentric shaft sensor, so they are sitting spare now. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

    I've shared it as if somebody else go through the same problem, try the method which I have before changing anything.
    HTH.
     
     

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    #16
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    Another UPDATE on this.

    Few experiments and conclusion at the end;
    1- After cleaning the eccentric shaft sensor, (last post) the error appeared in a week.
    2- I have changed the eccentric shaft sensor and the difference was massive.
    My car always lacked the torque when accelerating from low RPM. After changing eccentric shaft sensor, it has defo improved low end torque. I felt the difference in 6th gear where it kept accelerating on high speeds as well. And no engine light. However in inpa, it still kept showing 2A67 error. After few weeks, engine management light came up.
    3- Changed the VVT motor. New motor showed 1.3 ohms resistance. My old one showed the same 1.3 ohms but I guess my old VVT servomotor was intermittent with its functions (as the error only appeared if I drive the car for more than 30 minutes).


    So to conclude;
    1- If your VVT motor shows resistance of more than 1.3 ohms, its faulty.
    2- If you have 2A67 error, then your VVT motor is faulty despite of 1.3 ohms, as when its running it may have more resistance.
    3- When fitting the VVT motor, you rotate the VVT motor shaft clock wise and VVT motor will come out. Reverse the procedure to fit the new motor and then keep doing it till the eccentric shaft moves all the way to anti-clock wise (toward the driver side in UK). After fitting it, put all the wires back (oil drained and rocker cover off) and put the car to ignition mode.
    After few seconds, eccentric shaft will self adjust, and you can see it rotating. (or you can use inpa to determine its end positions under N46 engine). Then start the car for 1-2 second to see if car starts. (yes without oil, as all the parts are still lubricated). DO NOT run the car for more than 1-2 seconds. Put everything back. Basically you test it so you do not have to take the rocker cover off again.
    4- I have changed the rocker cover gasket last year, so I did not change it this time and there is no sign of any oil leakage. If you rocker cover gasket is really hard and starts breaking, you need to change it. In my case, it was still soft and I did not change it.
    5- It happens if you drive your car heavily. VVT motor adjust the VVT when accelerating and on high RPM, chances are that motor can become faulty.

    I have updated this thread, as this may help somebody else.

    Seems like its common fault on N46.

    So far I have seen these common faults on N46 engines (around 80-100K miles)
    1- Oil breather VVT snapping / breaking / gunked if car is 100K and above (increase in the sound and car lags, also white smoke)
    2- Vacuum pump seal broken and oil dribbling down. Typical symptom is burning smell of oil in the cabin, especially when the car is parked uphill.
    3- VVT servometer motor (Engine management light on and car goes into limp mode)
    4- Eccentric shaft sensor (Low end torque diminished and car struggles at speeds > 80-90MPH)
    5- Rocker cover gasket leakage (you can see collection of the oil on the metallic part below rocker cover gasket, seen from the driver side of engine)
    6- VANOS solenoid seals leaking (oil coming out from there)
    7- Oil filter base seal leaking (collection of oil below the oil filter, don't confuse it with your garage spilling oil when changing the filter)
    8- Crankshaft sensor failure on high mileage cars (RPMs drop when accelerating hard and returns after 1-2 seconds. Car can halt as well and can be very dangerous)

    HTH.
     
     

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    #17
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    Did your car exhibit any hard starting problems?

    Starting my car with the vvt sensor plugged in is near impossible. When hot, car would be hard to start even with the sensor disconnected.
    Also, suffer from low torque. I have INPA, but no codes.

    Please let me know, these parts are very expensive here.
     
     

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    #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg4x4 View Post
    Did your car exhibit any hard starting problems?

    Starting my car with the vvt sensor plugged in is near impossible. When hot, car would be hard to start even with the sensor disconnected.
    Also, suffer from low torque. I have INPA, but no codes.

    Please let me know, these parts are very expensive here.
    Sorry to revive an old post, but my wife's 2004 116i seems to having the same problem with battling to start when the engine is warmed up, but leave it to cool down for 10 minutes and it fires first swing. I've read this is due to a Lambda sensor going bad which seems to be the culprit in my case. When I have my diagnostic unit plugged in it tells me that the lambda sensor for cylinder 2,3 is Inactive but sensor on cylinder 1,4 is active. Also voltage is a constant 2.00V on Lambda sensor for 2,3 while voltage is 0.89V to 0.96V on lambda sensor to cylinder 1,4. I have a new one ordered and will see if that remedies the hot start issue.
    Also this displayed no codes. And the sensor set me back 90 pounds.

    Have you had any luck figuring out what caused yours?

    I also have the 2A83 code but I cleared it to see if it would show up again, and it did when I started the car. It ran really rough for 4 seconds before smoothing out and showing me that same 2A83 code again to by the looks of things I'm gonna need to change out the sensor as it looks to also be bad. Luckily have no loss of power or shuddering the engine still runs fine. but will do a compression test and check the timing is right just to be sure it hasn't skipped a tooth.
    Will keep posted on changes
     
     

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