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    #11
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    i had this problem the other day my fob stopped working on my e36 coupe, it has the original bm alarm. once the alarm stops making noise you can actually start and drive the car. i had to get my alarm reprogrammed but stealers quoted me 200 quid to sort out. my mate deals with alarms he done it for 60 quid with a new fob. hope to this helps mate.
     
     

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    #12
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    Also i forgot to add bm charge £47.50 just for a new fob and about £165 for reprogramming it. and they told me that they need the car for a whole day to investigate why the current fob did not work. Basically they want to bend you over and shaft you in labour charges.
     
     

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    #13
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    There are no markings on the horn unit or any of the associated components. I've followed the wiring from the horn back to the point where it disappears into the engine bulkhead on the outside and removed as much as I can of the glove box area inside but it's cluttered with a bazillion wires. I can't see any clue to which system it is. Where is the immobiliser unit actually located?

    BTW, I appreciate all the help guys. The charge BMW want to make seems completely out of proportion to the problem. You can't tell me that a lost key fob effectively writes off an otherwise pristine and roadworthy car! I don't mind paying for the work but there are limits.
     
     

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    #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by sukybm View Post
    Also i forgot to add bm charge £47.50 just for a new fob and about £165 for reprogramming it. and they told me that they need the car for a whole day to investigate why the current fob did not work. Basically they want to bend you over and shaft you in labour charges.
    Must be having you on mate, its an old car they have different pricing ranges for labour

    If your any good at electrics you would have found the fuel pump and starter motor wire by now (its where thatcham categroy alarms are immobilised from) and snip off the immob loop circuit and rejoin. Forget the standard alarm mate and spend that money on a better aftermarket alarm with more functions

    If you don't feel confident doing it yourself take it down to an auto electrican to sort out, shouldn't be more than 2 hours labour to remove.
     
     

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    #15
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    #16
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    Thanks for the links and apologies for not responding sooner. I've been away on business and only just had a chance to look at "Herman" (not my name for it) again.

    Well, some progress. The alarm system is a 3T. There was a sticker on the horn unit but on the underside out of sight. The keyfob, based on the thread linked to, is a single button AC38 type. The only thing I'm unsure of is the immobiliser unit itself. I've had the rear seat out and there is a silver metal unit with a large number of black wires disappearing into it tucked in front of the large plastic fuse box. There are no markings at all and it looks nothing like the black plastic unit shown in the photo on the other thread so I'm sceptical. I can't see any other obvious unit under the rear seat.
     
     

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    #17
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    All the wires are black on the 3T module. It may be in a tamper proof metal casing.
     
     

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    #18
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    The obvious question is "what's the next move?"

    BMW wanted an arm and a leg. Specialist alarm dealer? How difficult can it be to get the car going?
     
     

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    #19
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    Bit the bullet and contacted the professionals, The London Car Alarm Company.

    http://www.londoncaralarmco.co.uk/about.html

    In less than three hours, the old system was out, a new system was in and the car was mobile again. Not bad considering the guy (Otto) came from one side of London to the other to do it. Very impressed with the service and knowledge shown and more importantly, the car is going. Thanks again to everyone who offered help in this thread.
     
     

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    #20
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    Glad you got sorted. Just out of interest how much did it cost and what system did you have fitted?
     
     

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