E60 how to fit LED indicators without fast flash or error problems!! EASY GUIDE HOW TOO

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  1. E60 how to fit LED indicators without fast flash or error problems!! EASY GUIDE HOW TOO 
    #1
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    hi guys, well as far as i can see this is a subject with many flaws and lots of hear say and no one actually saying how it can be done or if it is possible at all.

    iv see plenty about people fitting a set of bulbs that claims to be error free can bus bulbs "No error" "No fast flash" we have seen them all well in some cases its true enough the bulbs work fine and in other cases they are full of, well you know what!

    so for you guys that have either bought or are away to buy LED bulbs for your car there is a solution if you do get the fast flash error code crap.

    as you have probably heard resistors are what people use to stop the fast flash. within the resistor are what only i can presume to be a copper winding that causes a resistance by turning the electic power into heat like what a normal bulb has apart from within a bulb the winding is spaced further apart so that it glows to crate light. there are all types of resistors you can buy dont ask me how many or how they all work but the ones you need or should i say the ones i used are 50 watt 8 ohms from what iv gathered this is the perfect resistor to use for indicator bulb replacement for LED bulbs. if you would like to read more look at this link, it is very handy...

    eBay.co.uk Guides - Load resistors for LED indicator bulb replacement

    as far as the ohms goes i cant really explain it all that well apart from some vehicles work on a 4-6ohms resistance for there indicators where as the likes of some BMW's including mine run around 6-8ohms (this is going on what i have read from other forums and Google searches ect, and it defo works as i dont get fast flash ect)

    in all this project cost me £55 and took roughly 2 hours, the bulbs i bought are these bulbs but as you can see they say "error free" ect but its not true well not in my car and i got a refund of £8 for the trouble (he was going to send me a set of resistors but they were only 6ohms, no use) so feel free to buy them but as i say they will put codes on dash and fast flash, in fact you could prob buy any LED bulbs as long as your fitting resistors i wont matter but for now ill show you how i did mine and with what, these are the bulbs...

    i bought two packs of two of these for the front and rear...
    Upgrade Car LED Signal Indicator Light Bulbs 581 PY21W Amber Orange SMD Canbus | eBay

    and bought a pack of two of these for the side repeaters...
    Upgrade Car LED Signal Indicator Light Bulbs 581 PY21W Amber Orange SMD Canbus | eBay
    i do find that these bulbs give a little flicker on start up of the car but it stops after a few second (this is just with the side repeaters not the front or rear)

    this is the resistors i bought two packs of two...
    2 x 50W 8Ohm LED Load Resistor Warning Cancellor Fix LED Bulb Hyper Flash UK | eBay

    as you can see the resistors come with those nasty speed clip things that are just a magnet for water contamination causing more problems down the road so i used heat crimps which work great for holding the wires and keeping water out, i got mine from my work i used the blue and red ones so if you need here are some...
    Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Crimp Terminal - Red - Blue - Yellow | eBay

    i also used some two core cable aswell to join the resistors to the power cables.

    so thats the basics of what i used and below i have many pictures and ill explain as best i can as to how i made it work.

    this is the things i used...




    this is the bulbs i used...














    in the boot you have to open the center part of the floor and remove either side sections of the boot like so...








    i tried the resistors in before i got started and all worked great...


    i then made up a four small plates out of 1mm thick alloy...




    once you remove the rear bulb holders you will see two wires that come from the indicator bulb to the center of the holder we will call this the small loom at the ends of the small loom there are two connectors we will call these 1 and 2, what to do is remove the bulbs and then remove the small loom (it dose not matter which way round they go back on later on). once you get it off cut the wires about an inch from connector 1 or 2 so that it is in two parts now we will now call the long wires A and B and the short wires C and D as in four wires into two connectors. you then put your red heat crimps onto wires A and B (as in two red crimps onto the two short wires into connector 1) what to do now is get the resistor (that has two wires coming out of it we will call these E and F) and join wires C to E and D to F into one side of the BLUE heat crimp. this steps will allow you to add in as long a bit of wire from A and B to C and D with the resistor across the wires to cause the resistance (please forgive my picture)...


    from there i added a bit of wire just long enough to join everything together so that there was no slack in the cables i also riveted on the resistor to the small plates i made up earlier then riveted these to the bulb holder its self then tie wrapped the wires to where ever possible (gently not to stress any wires or cause connections to touch each other) also the plates i put a slight bend into so that it was only touching where it was riveted on as the resistor dose get hot...






    this is with and without (comparing from left and right holders)...




    and thats the rears finished i just then fitted the holders back in as normal. i did it this way so if i have a problem with the holder or bulbs i can remove the holder as one with the resistors attached...


    fit up all the panels and thats it done


    now for the fronts

    this is slightly easier to be fair? what i did was remove both the torques bolts holding the top of the headlight in and pulled it out a bit to give me more room to work dont pull too much though lol then remove the indicator bulb holder and remove the amber bulb and you will end up with this...






    where you see the two connections either side of the holder drill a 1/8th hole right the way through for the wire you will put in next...






    then cut two small bits of wire about two to three inch long and solder these onto the connections from the back side through to the front we will call these wires A and B...








    at the end of wires A and B crimp on a red heat crimp and then add on a bit of two core about 1 foot to 1 and a half foot long...




    at the other end of the two core cable fit another two red heat crimps and then join the wires which we will call C and D on the resistors across the two wires from the two core cable(at this point i had already riveted on the small plate made erlyer to the resistor and also drilled a larger hole for mounting the plate to the car...






    the connection will then look sort of like this...


    after this just fit the bulb holder as normal and leave the resistor on the plate and find a spot on the front panel of the engine bay to mount the plate to. what i did was there was a threaded hole already that i put the threads of a bolt that i cut the head off of and put two nuts between and a nut on the outside to hold the plate and also did a similar thing on the other side but i removed a factory screw that holds the air intake pipe in place and used same thing as the other side to hold the pipe and my new plate...












    and then replace the torques bolts for your headlights and thats it job done all working fine!!

    the side repeater bulbs as i say they do flicker slightly on start up but stop again not sure of the fault there but they are just plug and play.

    here are some videos of the bulbs in action i hope you learnt something from this and hope it works out for you too...

    this is a comparison of the front ones from old to new LED and the rest of them working as LED too...


    this is a comparison of the rears from old to new LED...


    and this is all of them at night all LED...


    i know this is all done with the hazard lights on but it works the same on either side aswell as if you were turning left or right.

    thanks

    mark

    BMW F20 LCI 120d Msport 2016 manual, Alpine White, ferric grey alloys, red corral heated leather, pro nav, DC pack, IC pack, comfort access, parking sensors all round, harmon kardon and rear debadge.
     
     

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    #2
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    wicked guide mate, but only for people handy with electronics. so yes, easy for few of us I guess, well done. thanks
     
     

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    A neat solution. A bit of background info to help people choose the right resistors...

    An ordinary bulb will cause a current to flow which is related to its wattage - If we assume the car electrics are 12V (I know normally its 13 and a bit but I'm trying to keep the maths easy). Divide the watts by 12 to get the Amps. 60W bulb = 5A, 24W bulb =2A etc.

    If the indicator circuit doesn't detect the right amount of current flowing it assumes a bulb has blown and does the fast flash / error thing.

    Led bulbs draw far less current, the exact amount will depend on the make and model, but 0.1A is quite possible. So, if you wire these in on their own, there's nowhere near enough current flowing and so you get the fast flash.

    Wiring a resistor across the leds like above just adds the current drawn by the resistor to that of the bulb hopefully taking it up to the amount the circuit is expecting to see.

    So, again, using slightly off figures just to illustrate the maths, If the bulb in question is normally 24W it should draw 2A. If the leds are 0.1A, you need another 1.9 to flow through the resistor. Ohms = volts/Amps so you need 12/1.9= 6.3 Ohms which sounds about right given I've made a few assumptions with numbers to keep the maths easy.

    One final point, the power dissipated by the resistor is VoltsxAmps, so if you're drawing around 2A through the resistor, then thats 24W so a 25W model will be a bit boderline as the accurate figure is a bit more than 12V however, the indicator is only powered and the resistor drawing for half of the on-off cycle so maybe its O.K...

    Hmm - just re-read it. Its all a bit long winded, but I hope it helps ...

    Paul
     
     

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    #4
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    This is spot on mate as you said 25w is boarderline same with the 6ohms so going 50w and 8ohms is perfect if anything because its rated for high watts and ohms it wont heat up as much as a lesser resistor will so benifits all round. Far from long winded mate all info is good info whether its "dont pee into the wind" or what we have above, all good info.

    Thanks for that add on Paul hope you guys like this and please spread the word lol

    Thanks

    Mark

    BMW F20 LCI 120d Msport 2016 manual, Alpine White, ferric grey alloys, red corral heated leather, pro nav, DC pack, IC pack, comfort access, parking sensors all round, harmon kardon and rear debadge.
     
     

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    mjojom (04-10-2012)

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    Glad it helped. Did you actually try the 25W resistor? I'm curious as to how borderline it is ...
    Paul
     
     

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    #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by P_Monty View Post
    Glad it helped. Did you actually try the 25W resistor? I'm curious as to how borderline it is ...
    Paul
    hi no i did not try them just went for the 50w 8ohms

    THIS IS AN UPDATE AS WELL....

    i have found when i start the car all the LED bulbs do a little flicker for like 5-10 seconds then stop? what i think it is is the car checking that they all work or somthing and once it has done that its all good no problems at all

    thanks

    mark

    BMW F20 LCI 120d Msport 2016 manual, Alpine White, ferric grey alloys, red corral heated leather, pro nav, DC pack, IC pack, comfort access, parking sensors all round, harmon kardon and rear debadge.
     
     

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