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2005 E61 525d MSport - Remote Central Locking - Wiring Harness broken

4K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  Vista 
#1 ·
I have a 2005 525d MSport Touring which I purchased from Wellsway BMW in Bath in January 2011. It has the customary AUC warranty.

On Sunday I drove from Bristol to Swansea, at Bristol I opened the car as usual using the remote central locking key - no issues. On arrival at Swansea about 1 & 3/4hrs later I went to lock the car using the remote but found nothing doing. I locked it manually with the key and on Monday took it to the nearest main dealer being Trainer's in Swansea thinking it may be something simple and easy to resolve...........
The below is typed word for word from their report sheet;
Attend to remote key not working. Checked supply to aerial diversity. NO supply found and found harness broken on tail gate. Need to replace wiring.
Report for customer attention;
Boot repair harness req as no supply to aerial diversity - Incorrect repair has previously been done to the harness so not warranty.

I declined to have the work done at this time by them as apart from wanting £583 to do it I wanted to return to Wellsway and speak to them. My reason for this being as prior to accepting delivery of the car there was a water leak in the boot which they attributed to the boot window not being closed properly they said at the time "We pulled the boot apart and took all the trim out to see if there were any leaks, there weren't so it had to be the window" (either way - no further leaks have happenned)

If they had done as they said and performed such a thorough check on the boot, removing trim and looking for water would it have been likely that they should have spotted the wiring issue?

I spoke to Adrian the Service Manager at Wellsway who said "Wiring isn't covered on the warranty - we didn't do the previous repair, it was done before the car came to us so you will have to pay for it to be repaired. How much depends on what we see when we look at it"

Firstly - due to his negative attitude its obvious I have a fight on my hands to get this repaired at anything less than full whack cost...is it worth me taking it to them or should I just book it in to Clayton Cars - a reputable and well recommended local specialist?
And secondly - can I expect this to be covered under warranty?
 
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#3 ·
I'm a complete novice when it comes to auto electrics - haven't got the foggiest as to where to start looking!
I've taken most the trim off in the boot looking for something obvious, I understand this particular wire is behind the driver's side boot hinge. Everything I've found there seems to be uptogether but its a very small space and I can't get hold of sufficient wire to check any joins. I've also tried to access it via the roof speaker in the boot but that looks to be a sealed unit.
Any ideas on other areas I can get in behind?
 
#10 ·


This'll be the offending item - I'll post more pics tomorrow of where it is and how to locate it. (Open boot - look to right and remove trim which contains one of the interior lights)

Now...anyone know the technical term for it and whereabouts I can purchase one or something similar that will do the same job?
 
#14 ·
Unfortunatly I do not own a multimeter Joylove - up until today I didn't even own a Torx screwdriver! :rofl
I traced some cables from the fuse box up the bootlining and into interior roof lining - this is a group of about 12 wires fastened together in some type of adhesive type sheeth. All these wires appear to be intact and complete for as far as I can trace them.

As for the purple connector - the pins have broken inside the unit.

I phoned BMW customer services today too, they basically said its not on the AUC warranty as its electrics and as its pre-existing I'd have to deal direct with the dealer - pretty much as expected.
 
#15 ·
There is a permanent power there at the FM amp for the alarm receiver.

If the pins were ripped off you may need to replace them. You want 1.0-2.5mm MQS pins. They can be crushed into place with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Checked supply to aerial diversity. NO supply found and found harness broken on tail gate. Need to replace wiring.
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/e60e61/index.htm You will need Java and Adobe's SVG viewer. Search for N8a. The diagrams are hyperlinked and you can keep searching for that term until you find the photo and wiring diargram.
Self-diagnosis of aerial diversity

The aerial self-diagnosis checks the diversity function and aerial connection. However, these results are not always meaningful. In this case, it is necessary to examine the field strength of the receiveable stations.
Service mode

In the Service mode of the radio, there is the possibility to display the quality and field strength of the radio station currently being picked up (not M-ASK and CCC). The displayed values lie between 0 and 15.
15 corresponds to very good reception
0 corresponds to very poor reception

Proceed as follows to call up the Service mode:
Terminal 30g ON
Switch off the radio
Switch on the radio again
Within 8s for a duration of 8s, press the button for manual station-search function
The radio switches into the Service mode
Assessment of the reception quality in the test module

If the result of the diversity self-diagnosis is OK, the field strength of the currently received station can be displayed in the test module. If one aerial has a noticeably weaker reception than the other aerials, the vehicle must be turned by 90 degree and the measurement repeated. If there is still a violation of the tolerance range, at least one FM aerial is defective. The defective FM aerial must be checked.
Checking AM aerial / testing Rad_on signal

In the diagnosis, the AM amplifier is inactive and therefore delivers level values with the AM amplifier switched off during an AM scan. To evaluate the AM aerial with the active amplifier, the test is concluded by switching the switching voltage from the diagnostic mode into FM1 / AM mode. With the amplifier switched on, the level values must be significantly higher than those with the amplifier switched off. If this is not the case, the Radio_on cable must be checked.
Next you'll need a cheapo multimeter. Can you borrow one from a colleague?
Inspect pin 1 RT/WS of X11012 for 12V as fed by fuse F59 5A.
Inspect pins 2 (WS/BL) and 4 (BL/GE) of X11012 and make sure they are not shorted to GND. Also check they are not like 10 MOhm, suggesting a snapped cable.


Might as well check fuse F59. If it's blown, it may have saved your amplifier from assploding.
Where

RT Red
SW Black
GN Green
BR Brown
GE Yellow
WS White
VI Violet
GR Grey
BL Blue
 
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