2002 E46 330d - parasitic battery leak - Page 2

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  1.  
    #11
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    330diesel's Car Details
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    *************************FIXED******************** ********

    even after getting the reading that suggested that there was no leak i still kept the multimeter connected and started to pull fuses to see if it dropped further.
    when i pulled the 30A fuse for the radio the reading dropped to 0.005.

    as i have an after market Sony stereo and 2 amps in the boot. these needed checking.
    put the fuse back in (reading returned back to 0.029)
    disconnected the feed for the amps and the reading stayed at 0.029.
    pulled the stereo out and checked the wiring , no cuts or nicks. all wired ok.
    then remembered that the switched live and constant live sometimes have to be switched over as they end up the wrong way round on certain cars.
    switched the switched and constant wires around and hey presto..
    reading dropped to 0.005.
    turned on the stereo, checked it when the car is running and when off. all ok now.

    and it didint cost me anything except the price of a new mutimeter.. which will always come in handy if you own a BMW...
     
     

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    gildersol (21-11-2009)

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  4. Draining battery 
    #12
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    martinjs's Car Details
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    I had a very similar problem with an E39 523i............
    It turned out to be the Final Stage Resistor (hedgehog)in the heater/aircon system
     
     

  5. Help with parasitic drain 
    #13
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    snakedog's Car Details
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    Hi, I really need some help
    I have a 20a multimeter but get the same issue when i connect it (one cable to the battery earth and the other to the earth lead) i get no reading, can anyone explain in an idiots guide what is ment by "Leave your -ve lead disconnected on the battery and try the +ve tap and chassis ground in the engine bay"
     
     

  6.  
    #14
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    Set meter to DC 20A range
    Make sure leads are plugged into the correct sockets on the meter for reading amps (may be marked 'com' and '20A')
    Disconnect the negative cable from the battery
    touch one meter lead to the battery -ve post
    touch other meter lead to the clamp on the end of the now disconnected negative cable.

    If you get no reading, and you have already tried this a different way, you may have blown the fuse in the meter.
     
     

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    snakedog (05-01-2010)

  8.  
    #15
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    RichardP's Car Details
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    When testing for current draw it's best to keep some form of contact at all times, especially with BMWs. Ideally you should connect one wire from the multimeter to the grounding point on the chassis and one to the -ve battery terminal BEFORE disconnecting the battery. Then disconnect the -ve battery cable leaving the only connection through the meter, the meter will then read the current draw. If you don't do this then as soon as you reconnect the battery through the meter the entire car electronics wake up and cause a large draw, you then have to wait 20 minutes for it all to settle down again before you will get an accurate reading.
     
     

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    gildersol (05-01-2010)

  10.  
    #16
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    330diesel's Car Details
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    the mistake snakedog and i were making is we were setting the multimeter to read in millliamps. you need to have a multimeter that has a 10A or 20A input on it (not all do) and connect the red wire to this.
    Last edited by 330diesel; 02-06-2010 at 18:13.
     
     

  11.  
    #17
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    thegoodbadandugly's Car Details
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    The big problem is that you are breaking the power supply to the vehicle when you connect the meter in series to the car. This means that if something is sticking on such as a relay or an ecu then you are removing the power supply to it and this can reset the sticking component. You need to run the vehicle with as many consumers switched on as possible for a while and then when you park the vehicle up connect the meter in to the car without breaking the circuit, i.e make up a jumper lead to ground to enable you to connect in the meter, then remove the jumper lead. Usually thins means having to unbolt the -ve terminal from the body of the car and not the battery so you can stay connected to the -ve post of the battery throughout. Remember though, you may have to try a few times to catch the fault in the act. Be careful.
     
     

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