2000 E46 330Ci Air/Fuel Sensor??

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  1. 2000 E46 330Ci Air/Fuel Sensor?? 
    #1
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    kempy's Car Details
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    2000
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    Hi Guys

    I have just bought myself my first BMW. Only had it a couple of days.

    I managed to get it pretty cheap because of a few probs.

    I noticed whilst cleaning it last night that there is a plug disconnected from just behind the air filter.

    I thing its the Air/Fuel sensor. I reconnected it but now the car runs quite bad.

    Idle is very lumpy, especially from a cold start. I had to disconnect it this morning before driving to work.

    Do you guys think its this air/ fuel sensor is at fault or is it likly to be something else ie Lamba sensor?

    Ive had a search but could find any pictures simular to mine or the exact same problem.

    Thanks for you help in advance
    Alex
     
     

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    #2
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    Martyn D.'s Car Details
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    This is the MAF sensor (air flow) check your air filter and make sure it's not one of them nasty oily ones. You can take the maf out, not ideal, but can be cleaned by spraying with electrical contact cleaner, left to dry then refitted.
     
     

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    It does sound like the MAF sensor has been unplugged, if the MAF is knackered or you have a air leak then when disconnecting it the car goes into a "limp mode" and runs slightly better due to the ECU using a default map setting.

    I would be checking for any air leaks from split hoses, split vacuum pipes, split engine breather pipes or split induction pipes, also any valves and diaphragms that may have failed. Any air that is sucked into the engine should travel past the Air flow meter otherwise it will give you a running fault and can trigger a Airflow meter fault code.

    If you do get a new MAF then don't get a really cheap one, try getting a Bosch or similar from Euro car parts or GSF.
     
     

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    #4
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    kempy's Car Details
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    Ok thanks guys.
    I'll get the inspection light out tonight and see if iCan find any leaks.

    Very much appreciated.

    On a side note how noisey are you heaters.
    I cant really tell if the blower is working that well. Even on full power not really much of a sound or force of air?
    The car does eventually warm up the cabin.
    Being my first BM im not sure if its meant to be quiet. Used to Honda's in the past lol
     
     

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    #5
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    If there's not much air blowing out the vents then check the pollen filter out, it lives under the bonnet, if this is blocked/really dirty/clogged then it will seriously restrict flow.

    And if the heater/car takes a while to reach temperature(gauge should always be bang in the middle) then look at getting the thermostat/thermostat housing changed.
     
     

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    #6
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    Well I found that the elbow joint in the induction pipe was split.

    Ive since changed that and tried connecting the MAF back up. Still same situation :(

    So does this confirm it then and the MAF is at fault?

    Also on the heater front. I dont have any prob with the engine reaching temperature. I did notice the other day that when I inserted the key the blower kicked into action.Only briefly tho. I know this is a programmable feature of our keys.
    Therefore blower motor is ok and most likely to be the final stage resistor. Right??

    Think Im going to have to take a trip down the local stealers in the moring then. I kinda need the car working asap.
     
     

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    #7
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    Kevin Whittaker's Car Details
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    You can get the final stage resistor from Quarry Motors, who are a forum vendor for new and 2nd hand parts on this forum. You get a discount on here too

    If you look on ebay, they are selling them for £35 with free postage....

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E46-3-Seri...#ht_607wt_1156

    Beware, you need double jointed fingers for this job

    I would agree with Ronnie, either GSF or Eurocar parts for the MAF..
     
     

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