I solved the same problem by using a siren from a e39 (with 4 wires), it is the second year that ma alarm is working
here are my experiments with alarm>
I have a e36 1995, came from Italy, with a Gemel alarm (control unit and siren). The problem was in disapearing of
the siren sound. In a forum I found that the problem may be in the siren batteries, I replaced them, with no effect.
Now it is dead. I found a siren from an e38, Gemel too (I think), most e38 and e39 equiped with it. So on my siren
there are 6 wires, on a new one only 4. I connected the brown to brown (-), red to red/white(+), purple/white (trigger?) from control unit to black/blue of siren, and everithing works. But I am afraid there is no charging of batteries, there is an only 0.7mA in the red-brown circuit.
When I connect the black/red from control unit to black/red of siren a 4mA current appears (but not in every case) in the red - brown circuit, so I suppose this black/red wire is responsible for charging, but with this wire
connected the alarm begin to make noise when I turn the ignition off (1 from 3-5 cases) (and there is a voltage drop
from 12V ign on to 7V ign off on this wire), and with this wire connected sometimes when I arm the alarm it start to make noise for 30 sec. By the way on my old siren shortcircuiting this black/red to red by a
key (two black wires with a fuse, in the picture) in the glovebox the siren became quiet, on the new - it start to noise for 30 sec. The remaining 2 wires from my old siren are the second brown and a
white/black with a 0.15V on it.
So, what is the black/red responsible for. If charging - I shoud connect it, then what to do with the activating
siren when ignition off. And how to make the siren quiet (sound only when disturbing the car)
PS The new siren begin to make noise when disconecting any of these 4 wires, even if I do not activate the alarm,
the old one did not.
control unit http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=aVn2f3J
my dead siren http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqBzglJ
conector to my old siren http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqBznQ9
conector from control unit to old siren http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxRq8Oi
conector to new siren http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=TsQH5tr
the new siren http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxUxY7r
THE ONLY THING - THERE ARE 2 TYPES OF E39 SIRENS (WITH NI-CD AND NI-MH BATTERIES, IT IS WRITTEN ON THE ALARM), I USED THE NI-CD AND EVERYTHING WAS OK, USING ONLY 3 WIRES, AS MENTIONED ABOVE
Sounds like you have read my guide...
The siren batteries are only there to provide a power source if the main power is cut under attack. Unfortunately they also form part of the siren circuit so when they fail the siren stops working.
There is no definitive info regarding what all the wires do but from my experiments I can tell you the following
1) Power to charge the backup batteries
2) Continuity check
3) Trigger from alarm module
5) If the siren has a key-switch, the ability to switch the alarm module off.
Also, on later models, the bonnet pin wire is on the siren loom.
I would doubt you can replace the siren with an aftermarket and get all the functions working as the siren circuitry and the alarm module circuitry work in tandem with each other.
you are right, with my e36-e38 combination
1. I can not use that key in glove-box any more (I tried but nothing)
2. The sound of arming/disarming is as loud as in panic
But the alarm works, it charges, when disconnect the car battery or the siren loom there is activating of the alarm for 30 sec
The result is fine I think, fore me at least
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