1997 E36 323i touring - Fuse concern and fob/remote locking problem

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  1. 1997 E36 323i touring - Fuse concern and fob/remote locking problem 
    #1
    BMW Master
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    Individual e36 323i
    Year of Manufacture:
    97
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    Manual
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    Touring

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    Hi Folks,
    Just got back in the country and needed some wheels so i bought myself the aforementioned car in the title. Now it only came with one key (the valet or hotel key) So i ordered a new key with remote fob attached. Today I picked it up and the Parts Guy went to initialize it. Thats when i started to worry :( After many attempts of turning the key to position 1 then 0 then holding button 1 (unlock) and pressing button 2 (unlock) three times then releasing button 1. Nothing happened :( no locks going up and down like it says in the manual just the red LED on the key flashing slowly for 10secs.
    I assume the key is perfect as its brand new from the dealer and my car is 120k miles older so i feel that assumtion is good. So this brings me to my first point. What do i need to look at to start fault finding?
    The key in question starts the car fine and unlocks the front doors manually. The central locking part works with the key. By this i mean when i unlock either of the front doors the 3 other doors also unlock and the bootlid also unlocks.
    Now i noticed i dont have a working petrol cap lock (its permanently unlocked) and the key does not turn the boot lid lock :( I dont know if this is just a ceased lock or if its a different lock. By looking at the paint job (i have an "Individual" colour Atlantis Metalic) on the bootlid im very sure its factory painted. Thats one thing i have learnt and thats to spot a crashed Bimmer up for sale with the owner saying its never been smashed Anyway i diverge. The lack of re spray makes me doubt its the wrong lock just a ceased one but I'm an open minded guy and can be told that im wrong.
    So trying to find what could be the problem with my new key/fob i checked the fuses in the engine bay. To my surprise fuse 41 (30A) was blown. Yipee i thought and promptly changed it. I then tried the key initialization process again but nothing :( I then looked at the fuse details and became even more confused when the description for fuse 41 was "Diesel version" eh?!?!?! But i have a petrol 323i?!?!?! :
    Next i see the a small bmw siren on the nearside wheel arch and have a look at it. I realise its the alarm system and when i pop the rubber cover off the small circle i see its for a key (a key i do not have, like the keys on arcade machines) so any ideas?
    My key fob is the one on the key not seperate and has 3 buttons. 1 for unlock 2 for lock and 3 for interior lights.

    Thanks for any help.

    Class
     
     

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    #2
    RYM
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    I had a similar issue on my Touring and had to remove the trim from the inside of the vehicle to be able to gain access to the locking mechanism. I tried oiling it and it worked a few times but then stopped again

    I left the trim off and have tied a bit of nylon string to the mechanism so that I can manually open if need be

    I have been using the tailgate this way for a little while now but it seems that the push button is operating as it should now so seems as though it may have seized and just needed to be freed up.

    I still plan on de-locking the tailgate and putting it on a push button solenoid to prevent such issues. I had this done on the coupe because my stereo used to make the lock vibrate and was highly annoying

    I think Ronnie may be able to advise you better regarding the alarm/key initialising procedure
     
     

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    #3
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    Yer I think it is just seized for the key as it still works a treat when pushing the button once its been unlocked with the central locking. Typing this i have just realised i have spelt siezed as ceased crikey i need my bed

    Class
     
     

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    You need to find out if the alarm under the bonnet is still wired in,

    also does the new key work in the glovebox?
     
     

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    Class-- (02-07-2009)

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    #5
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    Well just tried the glove box and it works. The wiring however i'm not sure. I have a couple of keys that might fit the siren but if they dont fit i will be down to the dealers tomorrow.

    Ta
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by Class-- View Post
    Well just tried the glove box and it works. The wiring however i'm not sure. I have a couple of keys that might fit the siren but if they dont fit i will be down to the dealers tomorrow.

    Ta
    The dealers won't be able to get a key IIRC, Can you post a picture of the siren, and does it have any thing written on the siren?

    http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...ures-or-t2682/
     
     

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    Class-- (02-07-2009)

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    Hi Ronnie sorry for the length of time for the reply but i couldnt get phone to work with pc to get pics :( anyway got pics now. I took the plug out of the siren and i noticed that one of the pins has burnt away (red wire no current). When i first took the plug out nothing happened. The second time the siren went off, putting the plug back in stops the siren. I notice my telltale light next to my cigarette lighter does not flash only if i push and hold it down it flashes but thats it nothing else. Since i last posted i have taken the back off the tail gate and noticed the connection from the attena box was loose so thats been tightned. Unfortunately the fob still doesnt work. Oh and looking at the siren again its switched on yes?

    Thanks

    Class--
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    That siren does look indeed to be switched on.

    To program key,(worked on my friends e36 1995 with same key as yours in the week).
    Unlock vehicle(if car not unlocked using remote then programming procedure will be blocked for 15 minutes)
    Enter vehicle and close drivers door,
    Switch ignition on and off,
    press and hold unlock button and press lock button briefly 3 times within 10 seconds keeping unlock button pressed down.
    Release unlock button and lock should operate to indicate correct programming.

    Each key MUST be programmed within 30 seconds and a MAX of 4 can be done.
     
     

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  14.  
    #9
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    Yer i have tried that so many times now i'm sure my new key fob will need a new battery I have waited 0mins, 15mins and 20mins but with no luck :( I have no idea whats going on to be honest. I sat in the car and got someone to lock the car from outside. The alarm never went off as i sat there waving myarms about like a looney and rocking side to side. Should the alarm system make the remote locking not work are the two connected ?
    What does the unit look like in behind the glove box? I took the glove box out but had no idea what i was looking at. When you switch the key to position one and back to off there is a relay click 20secs after from one of the units in there. Is this normal?

    ta

    Class--
     
     

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    #10
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    May be a stupid question but have you checked the key battery is in the right way?

    Also have you tried leaving the ignition on for 15 minutes and then trying the alarm coding procedure?
     
     

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