1997 E36 323i coupe Windows and interior electrics

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  1. 1997 E36 323i coupe Windows and interior electrics 
    #1
    BMW Master
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    Right, I've got a bit of a curious problem in my E36 which I think all somehow back-tracks to the aftermarket alarm system.

    Symptoms:

    The windows work backwards?! As in you have to press down for it to go up and vice-versa.

    The windows don't drop the inch when the doors are opened on either side (I thought it unlikely that both the micro switches have broken, so have yet to test them).

    The interior light likes to stay on permanently when it's in the middle and right positions regardless of if doors are opened or closed.

    The passengers side lock doesn't work centrally

    The alarm fob doesn't lock the car, you have to lock it with the key THEN arm the alarm. I don't know if that's how it's supposed to operate but if you press the button again after arming the alarm then it unlocks the car and unarms the alarm.


    So it sounds a bit of a logic problem? But also seeing as most of those components work in some way with the central locking system and alarm then maybe it's a dodgy wiring issue somewhere? I'm going to take out the glovebox today hopefully and get some pictures.


    Any help is greatly appreciated, as always
     
     

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    Is it aftermarket or standard alarm ?

    And have a look behind glovebox, you never know, the problem might be evident.
     
     

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    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    Might be worth a check under the passenger side carpet as the connections under there get corroded if the carpet has ever been wet, and that leads to central locking and interior lights issues .
     
     

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    Okay, I took a picture and had a look and someone's spliced and diced most of the looms...



    I found out that the green connector behind the taped up wires is the electric window module, and it clicks normally for the passengers window but the drivers one it double clicks when you press the window down :S Something's not right. How would the windows be involved with the alarm module (the top box)?
     
     

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    Haha thats well dodgy.
    Which wires have been tapped going to the green connector? If its the brn/gry/yel and the brn/blu/yel then dont worry, they are the 'door open' feeds.
    There could feasibly be an attempt at total closure going on in there too which would explain the odd interactions, its a shame you dont live nearer as Id love to take a look at this!
    In fact, if you can trace the wires out of the alarm box and let me know where they head/join to other wires then it could be possible to diagnose from here. Do you have a multimeter to hand?
     
     

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    Thank you for such an enthusiastic reply! It's a shame I'm not up north as I really don't like playing around with electrics...I'm much more on the mechanical side of things!

    I'll take a look tomorrow and get some more detailed pictures of where the alarm-box wires are headed. Unfortunately I don't have my multimeter with me as I left it back at uni in Hertfordshire. Is it possible that what someone's done in the past has ruined the electronics inside that box?
     
     

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    Its quite possible that one or two elements of the electronic control module have been fried, I have a good working spare here if it comes to it, lets see if we can diagnose the problems first though.
     
     

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    Sounds good to me, I spent today valeting it and fixing the plug on the driver's seat belt pre tensioner to get rid of the air bag light on the dash, so, tomorrow I start the painstaking process of figuring out why someone's done what they've done to the ZKE module...
     
     

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    Good luck with that

    Is it me, or is there a fused wire coming from the ZKE (Which looks like a Red wiring coming from that) ?

    Have they run the power from the ZKE to the alarm ?
     
     

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    Okay, today I've spent the whole day playing around with it and getting nowhere. The alarm looks to be powered directly from the fuse box in the engine bay. The door sensors (which drop the windows) were tapped and then connected together and joined the alarm's loom, and there were 3 fuses wired in-line in the alarms loom too.

    The alarm is pretty f*ckin' useless, I need to remove it but I'm sure it's working with an after market immobiliser (why when the engine has EWS?!) so does anybody know how much it would cost for an auto electrician to completely remove the alarm?

    Another question is, the connectors going to my ZKE module has on the front and black, purple and green connectors but the actual module is made up of a black YELLOW and green connectors? Is the module possibly the wrong one for the car? I have no idea of the history of all this I'm afraid..
     
     

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