1997 E36 323 - Melted wiring loom (CAR SOLD)

Notices
 

Thread: 1997 E36 323 - Melted wiring loom (CAR SOLD)

Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. 1997 E36 323 - Melted wiring loom (CAR SOLD) 
    #1
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    agentgonzo's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    323ci
    Year of Manufacture:
    1997
    Transmission Type:
    M
    Car Body Type:
    coupe

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    hampshire
    Posts
    15
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    I've just had a slight problem with the car. There was a short on the central locking system and the fuse didn't blow. Long story short, smoke in cabin, warning lights everywhere.

    I've had an electrician out and took a quick look at it. The wire for the central locking is completely burnt out, and in doing this, it has melted the plastic of some other wires in the loom, essentially gluing wires together (and most probably causing other shorts which caused the warning light etc).

    I've traced the burnt out wiring by taking the seats and carpet out and I'm contemplating replacing it myself. Is this a good idea, or should I get a brand new loom fitted (this is probably write-off costs as the car's a 97 model and possibly only worth about 2 grand), or will it be OK if I go in and just start replacing individual wires? If replacing wires is fine, is it OK just to snip out the bad bits and solder in new sections and electrical tape/heatshrink the joins? If I am to do this, what guage of wire should I be using?

    Edit: If it is a write-off, presumably I can sell the car for something to someone as it's only the wiring loom that's knackered. The rest of the car is fine! It's due an MOT in August so this is why the write-off is looking a possible option.

    The short started in the driver's side door and then from there, the burnt out section goes into the cabin, underneath the dash. From there I lost where it went, but it looks like goes to the passenger side. The passenger side wire is burnt out all the way from the fuse box behind the glove compartment down to underneath the passenger seat, where it goes into a connector with other wires and stops.


    Edit2: Just spoken with the sparky again. He's saying that if I replace just the burnt out wire, I can separate the other wires where they've fused together and then just insulate them with electrical tape. Is this a good plan?
     
     

  2. Remove Advertisements
    BimmerForums.co.uk
    Advertisements
     

  3.  
    #2
    RYM
    RYM is offline
    Legendary BFuk Member
    Car Details
    RYM's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    325tds
    Year of Manufacture:
    1996
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Car Body Type:
    Touring
    RYM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Bristol
    Posts
    12,959
    Thanks
    5,540
    Thanked 4,935 Times in 3,119 Posts
    I would cut the wires out and replace them

    What colour wires is it you need? I have a spare loom and may be able to assist you.

    You will also need to check inside the fusebox to see if any wires in there have melted their protective sheath.

    My main concern would be the central locking module Hopefully it is not damaged

    Did the sparky know what caused the fault?

    Feel free to PM me
     
     

  4.  
    #3
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    agentgonzo's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    323ci
    Year of Manufacture:
    1997
    Transmission Type:
    M
    Car Body Type:
    coupe

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    hampshire
    Posts
    15
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Quote Originally Posted by A20 RYM View Post
    I would cut the wires out and replace them

    What colour wires is it you need? I have a spare loom and may be able to assist you.

    You will also need to check inside the fusebox to see if any wires in there have melted their protective sheath.

    My main concern would be the central locking module Hopefully it is not damaged

    Did the sparky know what caused the fault?

    Feel free to PM me
    The fault was caused by a wear in one of the wires going to the central locking in the driver's door. From following burnt out wires I found a kink in the wire in the door and the telltale signs of wearing by rubbing on the frame to expose a bare bit of copper. This shorted out and for some reason, the fuse *didn't* blow. The wire got hot and melted the insulation of not only itself, but the wires around it, which then caused all sorts of problems - a few other fuses blown , warning lights on, headlamps always on full beam and a warning siren in the cabin. The car would start of the warning siren was on, but not if it wasn't!

    I assume that the central locking is OK as the short happened in the wire, rather than a fault in the system
     
     

  5. Remove Advertisements
    BimmerForums.co.uk
    Advertisements
     

  6.  
    #4
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    scotland
    Posts
    1,423
    Thanks
    171
    Thanked 428 Times in 356 Posts
    Which fuse didn't blow and which ones did blow? What colour wire looked to have rubbed on the door frame?
     
     

  7.  
    #5
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    agentgonzo's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    323ci
    Year of Manufacture:
    1997
    Transmission Type:
    M
    Car Body Type:
    coupe

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    hampshire
    Posts
    15
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Fuse 7 (Central locking) didn't blow when it should have and caused the melting problem - I don't think that any other in the fuse box blew. There were a few under the glove compartment that blew as well (5A and 2A possibly). The wire in the door was red/green. I've decided to cut my losses and get rid of it. If anyone's interested fitting a new wiring loom, they can get themselves a bargain. It's going on ebay/autotrader today. http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...ed-car-t18584/
    Last edited by agentgonzo; 29-06-2009 at 12:41.
     
     

  8.  
    #6
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    scotland
    Posts
    1,423
    Thanks
    171
    Thanked 428 Times in 356 Posts
    Did it have a 5A fuse in it? That's strange it didn't blow
     
     

  9.  
    #7
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    agentgonzo's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    323ci
    Year of Manufacture:
    1997
    Transmission Type:
    M
    Car Body Type:
    coupe

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    hampshire
    Posts
    15
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Quote Originally Posted by gildersol View Post
    Did it have a 5A fuse in it? That's strange it didn't blow
    It did. The plastic on the fuse was completely melted. I have no idea why the fuse didn't blow, unless the plastic melted onto it, holding it in place.
     
     

  10.  
    #8
    BMW Crazed
    Car Details
    DanE36's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    318is
    Year of Manufacture:
    1996
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Car Body Type:
    Coupe
    DanE36's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Devon
    Posts
    141
    Thanks
    9
    Thanked 18 Times in 12 Posts
    Exactly the same scenario on my corsa!! Smoke filled cabin , igniton still on without the key being in it!! I repalced the central locking wire and just insulated the other wires, any wires exposed i replaced them also. Took a while but was worth it at the end. Only to be sold and put in scrappy anyway, so not exactly worth it in the long run!
     
     

Tags for this Thread

View Tag Cloud

Posting Permissions
  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts