1996 E36 328i Coupe EWS System testing

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  1. 1996 E36 328i Coupe EWS System testing 
    #1
    w0l
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    Hi all, I have just removed a clifford concept 300 from a 96 328i coupe, some one else started removal a couple of years earlier and the car has just stood for approx 3 years until now. Central locking is working and i have fuel pump,ignition lights and a humming from somewhere underneath the throttle body when the key is turned. When you try to crank there is nothing, no voltage drop on the battery and the dash lights stay on, I am suspecting an ews alignment problem, is there anyway of checking with a multimeter on the signal it sends. I have got a p a soft 1 3 6 but unfortunately this will not connect as the car has pin 15 in the 20 pin socket meaning true ADS, or have i just got to persevere with it to get something out of it.
    Thanks for reading.

    wol
     
     

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    I thought if the pump primed then EWS was not the issue?

    Humming under the manifold is ICV is alive so sounds good.

    If it was mine I would bump start it or improvise a tempory live to the starter solenoid trigger wire, but it's not mine.

    If it runs then you just need to follow the wires to sort out the cranking

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    If the dash lights aren't flicking off, and the radio is staying on, then there is no cranking signal.
    Head to the engine bay, and to the large connector plug just outside of the fuse box, this is the X20.

    You'll want to get to pin 18, a black wire with a green stripe, and skin it a little so you can get 12v to it.
    Run a wire from the jump start terminal on the far side of the engine to this wire.
    You can get it on the top or the bottom of the connector, the bottom side is probably a little better, and have the connector plugged in.
    Switch the car to the run position, and give 12V to the Black/green pin 18 wire and the starter will fire up.
    If at this point, the engine starts up, even for just a couple a fires, then it is the alarm that is causing your problem.


    The alarm will also tap into the ignition/starter wire, and that could be where it is blocking it.

    When it is cranking over, if someone else is available with the rear bench up, they can listen for the fuel pump.
    The alarm might also cut into this wire but if it is priming, it is probably OK.
    When cranking, the fuel pump should switch on again.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheEnd View Post
    You'll want to get to pin 18, a black wire with a green stripe, and skin it a little so you can get 12v to it.
    Run a wire from the jump start terminal on the far side of the engine to this wire.
    Or the big red terminal under the fuse box lid 4" away........


    Quote Originally Posted by TheEnd View Post
    When it is cranking over, if someone else is available with the rear bench up, they can listen for the fuel pump.
    The alarm might also cut into this wire but if it is priming, it is probably OK.
    When cranking, the fuel pump should switch on again.
    He says pump running and got fuel and ignition lights.


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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    He says pump running and got fuel and ignition lights.

    That bit is unlikely to be true, unless the alarm has over-ridden the crash safety features.
    The fuel pump will prime for a few seconds, and shut off.
    It will then only switch on when the engine is turning over with the crank sensor sending a signal to the ECU, and the ECU activates the fuel pump relay.

    If the pump runs by itself, then there will have to be some changes to the wiring to bypass this, as it is planned to shut off the fuel if the engine stalls (for example like a accident, so the fuel pump won't keep pumping fuel into the engine bay)
     
     

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    Hi again, Have completely disconnected and removed the clifford and joined back together the cut wires etc. I have fuel pressure when you first turn the key to on as the fuel pump primes, if you leave the ignition on and release the pressure in the fuel line and then crank it via the wire in the x20 socket (mine was black with yellow trace) it does not work the fuel pump, I have removed the chip from the key and the car doesnt change what it does, ie fuel pump primes and humming noise from icv, anymore ideas anyone as i'm still thinking EWS. Also on the DME iv module there was a wire that had just been shoved in by the alarm installer on pin 17 on the x13253 yellow connector, the Bentley says this is for the alpine anti theft system and is a data line, it seems to give out a few millivolts when you turn on etc. Could this have been used for something originally, or is it just a take off that someone has used when installing the clifford. (I dont know whether the car had an alarm before the Clifford). Does that wire need to be connected to another source as the EWS only seems to be connected to pin 4 on the same connector.

    Thanks for the time.

    Wol
     
     

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    OK, some more things to check-

    You can unplug the EWS box under the dash/glovebox.
    It's small, either white or black with EWS marked on it.

    You'll see about 8 wires going in, two of them being pretty large.
    Unplug the box and check for power on those two big wires. One is the start signal going in from the ignition switch, and one is the output to the starter.

    For example, if you bridge the two large wires with a small jumper, the starter should always work. (although the engine won't fire up)
    If it doesn't, you'll be able to figure out if there is still some part of the alarm putting a break into that wire.

    You'll be able to figure out if
    a) the starter signal is getting to the EWS,
    b) whether it is getting out of the EWS (not immobilised)
    c) whether there are any other systems breaking the starter wire.

    You'll find out where the starter signal is ending up if it isn't getting to the start motor.
     
     

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    Hi Again, Unplugged EWS, power coming from ignition switch and when bridged it turns over, connect it back up and no power to my starter motor (Checked with voltmeter and it is giving a ground signal). Not looking good....
    Any other things I can try, or does this mean EWS system kaput.

    Thanks once again.

    Wol
     
     

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    If it is stopping there, then it looks like the EWS is the cause, but the EWS does a lot.

    It's the main engine stopper, so it need the key to be OK, auto transmission in park/Neutral and some signals from the alarms


    EWS2 PINOUTS.
    The plug is known as X1659

    Pin 1 -2.5mm Black/Yellow - Output to starter relay
    Pin 2 -0.35mm White/Violet - connects to any diagnostic line (K-Line)
    Pin 3 - 2.5mm Green/Black - Start signal (+12v) from ignition barrel
    Pin 4 - 0.35 Green - Code signal to ECU -> Pin 10 on ECU.
    Pin 5 - Red/Yellow -Permanent Power supply from fuse 31 / fusebox.
    Pin 6
    Pin 7 - Brown - Ground
    Pin 8 - 0.5mm Black/Green from ZKE/ZVM body control module (deadlocked = no start)
    Pin 9 - 0.5mm Brown/Black - Gear Selector switch (Park/Neutral) for automatic transmission
    Pin 10
    Pin 11
    Pin 12 - 0.35mm Black - TD/Engine RPM signal
    Pin 13 - 0.35mm Blue - Data line from send/receive module
    Pin 14 - 0.5mm Blue/Red/Yellow - Vehicle Alarm Signal - (active alarm = no start)
    Pin 15 - 0.35mm Black/Green CODE function from OBC. Grounding this wire stops the vehicle starting

    Only the ones highlighted in red need to be connected.
    Auto EWS is different, I'm not sure what needs to be on the end of pin 9, either grounded, open or 12v input, so if you have an auto, check it with and without it in P/N and look for a difference.

    Try snipping the other wires leaving some space to reconnect if needed, but they should be able to stay cut (although remember if may affect other functions.

    If non of that does the trick, it is probably the key code, ring antenna for the key of the wiring that is the problem.

     
     

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    #10
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    Hi End, Sorry about the delay!! Other cars have been getting in the way. Thanks for all your help but none of it did the trick. Have been looking at some emul@ tors from China, have you any experience in these? I dont think the car will be going back on the road, so security is not really a problem. Just want to get it running and will probably break it up. Have you anymore thoughts. Send me a pm if you want. I am only in Wolves so brum is not that far.

    Thanks once again..

    Wol
     
     

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