1996 E36 320i Remote Locks fitting - Help! - Page 2

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Thread: 1996 E36 320i Remote Locks fitting - Help!

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  1.  
    #11
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    Remove the trim surrounding the door release lever using a small screwdriver. Pull the rear section (the widest part) away from the door and slide it forwards. You will need a Torx 20 bit to undo the 2 screws under the door pull after you've removed the screw covers. Now open the door, grab hold of the door panel at the bottom and pull away. Lift the trim over the door lock button and unplug the speaker and door mirror control.

    I will give you some answers to your questions above in a little while Lucas.
     
     

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    #12
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    OK, so of course I am a little confused still. I wasn't expecting the front and back doors to have different open signals, as they always open together, no?
    This is controlled by the ZKE unit and sends 2 signals at precisely the same time. In modern BMWs, the ZKE has options to lock individual doors.

    So, My unit sends only one open trigger, it seems, and one close trigger (white and white/black wires), so presumably I have to connect this open trigger to green, white and white/blue, and the close trigger to all of black, blue/green and white/green/yellow. Is that right? I am completely happy that I can only open and close them all together and not individually, if that makes things easier.
    That's correct, wire them as you have said.

    What about the remote locking loom blank? Is there one? Where might it be? Wouldn't it make things easier, having all the wires I'd need together? Or am I missing something...?
    I can't really see one in the schematics for your car. Try using those in-line crimp connectors so that you don't have to splice your wires. Your unit should be reverse voltage protected (diodes built into it).

    The pink trunk release is redundant, I assume, as there is no trunk pop on this car.
    Is your boot lid central locked?

    If I've got it pretty much right, can you explain the indicators bit, as I need to do it in one operation if possible, or else the wife will go mental (more mental I mean )
    You need to run your wires under the dash and locate them near the indicator switch. Keep an eye on fuse F23 (5A) which is part of the indicator set up. Your Left turn signal is Grey and Right turn is Blue.
     
     

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    dr_shabzzz (20-12-2010)

  5.  
    #13
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    Thanks once again Neal for your help and advice.

    The trunk pop wire - I was assuming that this referred to cars that have a button in the cockpit that literally pops open the trunk, undoing the catch. On my BMW there is a manual button to release the catch on the boot itself once central locking has unlocked it. Isn't that why it's called "pop" on the instructions, because it operates a solenoid to physically open the door? Or am I wrong?

    Where would I connect the live and neutral permanent wires from the unit? Black to body and red to ....red and green?

    Many thanks
    Lucas
    1996 (E36) 320i (M52) Touring
     
     

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    #14
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    What I meant was you connect the central locking wires to the boot. Forget the 'pop' thing as your car is not equipped with that solenoid. With the power, you can go with those wires if you want.
     
     

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    #15
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    Excellent work Neal

    When removing the door panel start at a bottom corner and persuade the clips with a trim tool. They will be stiff and in order to prevent damage to the panel you need to be as close to the clip as possible.

    There will be clips all around. Once all the clips have popped out of the door it will immediately become very loose. All you need to do then is lift the panel upwards

    Be careful of the wires on the back of the panel, you will need to unclip them before being able to let the panel rest on the ground
     
     

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    Lucas Adamson (10-12-2008)

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    #16
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    Hi Neal,

    I've got a problem: I can't find wires you've suggested in the drivers door.

    I decided to install the unit in the driver's kick panel, so that I could send the indicator wires more easily. The cable bundle from the driver's door comes through into this area too, so it's ideal, it seems.

    The problem is that the cable bundle from the driver's door doesn't seem to correspond to your colour codings. It is definitely the right bundle, as I've removed the door panel to check.

    The driver's door, which includes cables for the electric windows and mirror adjustments is as follows:

    1x v. thick purple cable

    2x thick cables:
    white,
    black (white stripe)

    6x medium cables:
    blue (white stripe),
    green (black stripe),
    blue (green stripe),
    brown,
    brown (red stripe & yellow dashes),
    brown (yellow stripe)

    9x thin cables:
    white (red stripe),
    white (green stripe),
    red (green stripe), [x2]
    brown,
    brown (black stripe),
    white (black stripe),
    black (white stripe),
    black.

    So my problem is that I have no green wire for the front door open signal. I've tried the green and black but to no avail. There's no white/green/yellow to close the boot lid either. All the other colours are present, but the cable thicknesses are random, and some are duplicated, such as there's a thick and a thin black cable, and so I am wondering if something's not quite right with the colours you gave me.

    Sorry to be such a pest, by the way...

    Many thanks
    Lucas
    1996 (E36) 320i (M52) Touring
     
     

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    #17
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    Just for reference...

    Not all door looms are the same. I found this out during my conversion. I had both the chassis numbers and compared the parts on realoem and they matched. However when I removed the door cards I could see a great deal of difference between the two looms. As a result I had to change various other components within the door
     
     

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    #18
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    Not all door looms are the same. I found this out during my conversion.
    Something you learn everyday Rym. I was looking at some German schematics, so do you reckon it could be different for UK cars?
     
     

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    #19
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    Well, that clears that up then. I'll have to test them all by opening the door panel and probing from +12v to each connector on the actuator in turn to see what they all do. Is that the way to go? Somebody suggested using a needle to pierce the cable if I can't reach the terminal, which looks likely, and linking +12v to that to make it work, just to determine what each wire does.

    Many thanks
    Lucas
    1996 (E36) 320i (M52) Touring
     
     

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    #20
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    Lucas, you live in Rickmansworth and I don't live too far from you near Northwood. If you run into any problems, I can give you a hand. Only problem is that I am going away next week, so won't be around until early next year.
     
     

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