You can cut the alarm/immobiliser out iof the loom when deactivated. If the car is starting then EWS is deactivated so that is the safe time to do so. When the alarms start to become intermittent replacement is often the best option.
There should be no broken circuits unless something has been hotwired. The alarm works the immobiliser by sending the double lock signal to the EWS module, mimicking the action of the door lock.
Excellent I thought, switched off - unplugged the alarm brain - tried the ignition - all the lights came on as normal - turned to the start position and absolutely nothing. Tried again and nothing.
Plugged the alarm brain back in, turned the key and it started. Then every time I tried it, even arming and disarming it still starts.
Will see what it does tomorrow.
I have pasted my alarm 'wiring diagram' below - I assume this is how it has been installed, the only difference is I don't have a touch key recepticle fitted. The connector with the melted plastic surround is one of the 'GR' wires.
Looks like the alarm has a way to disconnect those two GR lines, disabling the car. I'd check on how they are wired in. Chances are the relay in the alarm is only rated to 15-20A and that the connector only to say 10A per pin. The current flowing in there could well be more.
If the GR wiring at the engine management/fuel pump side is a bodge, with crimped connectors and very long wires back to the glovebox area, coupled with a charred high resistance at the alarm connector, it could be presenting a high resistance as it ages, preventing the vehicle from starting every time.
Have you measured and compared the actual voltages on the Z, GR, GND and power supply pins to the alarm when it is in it's working and failed state?
Just unplugging the module won't work. The EWS system expects an input if the module is wired in as it has a failsafe to stop thieves just unplugging the module! The only way to remove it is to cut it out as previously described.
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