1996 E34 518i - ignition key problem! - Page 2

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Thread: 1996 E34 518i - ignition key problem!

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    #11
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    thanks Ronnie understand the system now! (i think lol)

    All i need now is to find where the DME Control Module is located?

    i think i shall give the system 1 last go and get a new key from BMW in case the coil sensor is away in that! after that my only option is to change all the immobiliser components! unless there is a way to bypass the EWS and DME?
     

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    #12
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    It sounds as if the ignition switch is toast, especially if someone added a push button start. Can you post up or PM me the last 7 digits of your VIN number?
     

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    #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nebam View Post
    I have been reading other problems etc on here and see there seems to be some who dont or wont share info on this subject and i do understand thier concerns to a certain extent but surley common sense can prevaile! i am a member of several different forums and never come across this before! where do you draw the line? i see some with car details showing i.e make, model, registration number, colour, pictures etc etc !! surley to a thief very valuable information for a ringer!

    But i havent joined to cause trouble over opinions etc just looking for a bit of genuine help and advise
    With regards to this it's because it would actually be aiding car theft if we did post up how to bypass the EWS, I don't know anyhow. We as a forum could get in trouble if we did post up how to steal a BMW by bypassing the EWS. You wouldn't want someone nicking your e34 because of us would you?


    Now on to your car problem........................................


    Do you have a Airbag?
     

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    #14
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    yes fully understand that point, as for nicking the e34 there welcome lol

    anyways yes has an airbag- and airbag light is on as well! but there are 2 coloured wires bare coming out the steering ring, which i presumed were the reason airbag light is on!

    thanks for the help in advance really is appreciated
     

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    #15
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    Have a look here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...05&hg=32&fg=30. I "think" this is the part you need as they show 2 part numbers, but the dealer will be able to confirm, #3, 61328360865 ignition switch

    As well as #6, 61358364709 ring antenna.

    Can you post some pics up of the wires hanging out so I have better idea http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...ures-or-t2682/
     

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    #16
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    hi, its not the ignition cable #3, that is okay its the actual barrel which doesnt work correctly! and i have the ring antenna ! for some reason wont work! will post pics later of the other 2 wires from steering wheel!
     

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    It's not just a cable. The part at the end that fits to the lock assembly is the actual switch.
    If the switch is faulty and the contacts inside are not making properly (you did say that if you wiggle it you get power to the dash etc) then that could be why there is no power to the starter. It is possible that the pickup is recognising your key, but the switch is not allowing power through.
    Given the fact that someone has already tampered with the switch/antenna ring, it's hard to tell what they've been up to.
     

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    #18
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    Hi Gildersol, yes i know what you mean but its the key side if you wiggle then the lights come on! i have unscrewed the assembly from the back and all is well the lights come on if i turn with screw driver and turns to start mode but doesnt turn it over! the fault (loose connection that is) must be in the acctual barrel mech!

    i wish i knew what the previuos owner did but he is just saying he never touched it the aa looked at it! but thats rubbish!:(

    Is there any other way of telling if the antenna ring is picking the key up?
     

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    #19
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    Ronnie, here's the pic of the other 2 wires from the steering wheel ring! 4 come out all together 2 of them go into the grey clip shown! but no where else on it for the 2 bare wires!
    Attached Images
     

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    Not sure what electrical checks you have done, but you could try these if you are comfortable with electrics:

    1. At the ignition switch the red wire should have +12v at it.

    2. If it has then hold the key in the start position and the black/yellow wire should now have +12v on it. If not you can short between the red wire and the black yellow wire momentarily with a piece of wire ( same size of wire as the ones you're shorting). If this turns the starter then you need a new switch.

    3. If above is ok, while holding the key in start position, the black/yellow wire on pin 6 of the immobiliser unit should have +12v at it.

    4. If these voltages are all present, check whether pin 2 (also black/yellow wire) on immobiliser has +12v on it. If it has , then the immobiliser is healthy and you should have power at the starter motor. If not, you can short across the two black/yellow wires momentarily with a piece of wire ( same size of wire as the ones you're shorting), and if that runs the starter then the immobiliser is not in a healthy state (immobilised).


    Not sure about the relays, I've only been in about the DME on a 3 series and you wouldn't want relays in beside it on an early 3 series as the compartment is prone to flooding.
     

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