1995 E36 M3 - Wiring schematics required (FIXED)

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Thread: 1995 E36 M3 - Wiring schematics required (FIXED)

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  1. 1995 E36 M3 - Wiring schematics required (FIXED) 
    #1
    RYM
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    I am hoping a member will be able to assist me here

    I may have acquired a 1996 E36 328 vehicle loom for my car and I need to find out the pin number on the M3 ECU that sends operates the oil temperature gauge on the speedo cluster because the 328 does not use this function and it will need to be working on mine.

    Does the wire take a direct route or does it run via a relay or module?

    Any assistance would be much appreciated
     

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    #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by gildersol View Post
    I've PM'd you
    Thanks Gildersol
     

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    type this into ebay 150319805738 don't know if it will help?
     

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    or this
    M3 Owners Manual (M-DCT).pdf
    Last edited by xXxStKxXx; 09-06-2009 at 18:32. Reason: link didnt' work
     

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    Will have a look for you mate.

    10 mins
     

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    RYM (09-06-2009)

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    #7
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    Thanks Gildersol in providing the required information

    Very much appreciated
     

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    Pics sent, nothing on Autodata so bang out of luck there

    Hope it is handy to you
     

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    Thanks to Gildersol this has been rectified and is now working fine

    I removed the centre speedo clock plug from the M3 and soldered it on to the 328 loom. The reason for this is because the M3 has an extra wire (Brown/Red). This wire is the one that receives the signal from the oil temperature switch.

    I extended the brown/red wire and routed it along the car loom from the clocks, across the car and out through the bulkhead in the passenger foot well, a rubber grommet was used in the bulkhead to protect the wire from the sharp metal edges. From here I secured the wire to the loom that comes out of the fuse box and has the large round plug on it.

    The loom that comes out of the fuse box and to the main round plug has a white/grey/yellow wire, this was cut (the end coming from the fusebox was isolated and secured to the loom)

    The reason the white/grey/yellow wire was used is because I exposed the wiring on the oil temp switch and was able to confirm that the wire was brown/red which is the correct wire for sending the signal. The brown/red and white/grey/yellow wires joined at the plug.

    The wire that I had extended from the clocks was then soldered to the remaining white/grey/yellow wire and insulated therefore making the circuit complete.

    After firing up the engine and getting it up to temperature I can confirm that this method worked and it was only achievable with the assistance of Gildersol

    Thanks Again Gildersol
     

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    Nice one mate....
     

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