1995 E36 m3 immobiliser/ews problem - Page 5

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Thread: 1995 E36 m3 immobiliser/ews problem

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  1.  
    #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by stu21t View Post
    so the wire from the ews-dme, does this request a code from dme then back to ews telling the starter to start, when u turn the key?
    The key is inserted into the barrel and switched on. The transmitter/receiver module sends a 125kHz AM signal to the induction ring. The AM signal induces voltage in the key coil and powers up the transponder.
    Powered up, the key transponder sends the key identification code to the transmitter/receiver module via the 125kHz AM signal. The transmitter/receiver module converts the AM signal to a digital signal and sends it to the EWS.

    The EWS control module verifies the key identification code and checks to see if the key is enabled.
    Upon accepting the key as valid and enabled the EWS sends a digital password to the transmitter/receiver module, which converts the data to an AM signal and sends it to the transponder via the induction ring.

    If the transponder accepts the password as correct the transponder releases the changing code to the transmitter/receiver module which converts this AM signal to digital and sends it to the EWS.

    If the changing code received by the EWS is correct, and with correct input status the internal starter relay is energized and the starter motor begins to operate. At the same time the EWS module sends the ISN to the DME via the single wire communication link.

    If the ISN code stored in the EWS matches that of the DME, the drive away protection is cancelled, the injection and ignition is enabled.

    During the process of sending the ISN to the DME, the EWS sends a new changing code to the transponder through the transmitter/receiver and ring antenna.

    This all happens within 750ms !
     
     

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    stu21t (12-01-2011)

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  4.  
    #42
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    stu21t's Car Details
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    im confused as to why the car wont run with my dads parts fitted then.
    by bridging the cable thats proved all the wiring to the starter works.
    so even if the car didnt start with his bits fitted it should have at least cranked over.
    why doesnt it try that with his key/ews/dme fitted.
    damn thing. all the fuses and relays have been checked and are working.
    as many earths as i could find are checked and working.
    it sounds like its definately ews/key related to me. somehow lol
     
     

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    #43
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    I'm starting to run out of idea's here mate.......

    What cable did you bridge ?

    Next thing to try, could be the transmitter/receiver module from your dads car. This is what is used to convert the AM signal, to digital.
    If this has malfunctioned, then it'll be unable to convert the signal, which could explain why your gear doesn't work, and then when you try your dads gear, it still doesn't work.
     
     

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    #44
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    i bridged pin 1 and 3 on the ews, they are from the key p3, and out to the starter. that cranked it as normal then when i turned the key, i basically bypassed the starter imobiliser circuit.

    ive put the transmitter from his car on, still didnt work. lol
     
     

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    #45
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    Ahhh, I thought you meant you stuck a power feed straight to the starter... Then you mentioned about it proving the wiring, so was a little confused.

    So you've tried the transmitter....................................... .................................. The ONLY thing I can think thats left to try is the interior wiring loom, and engine bay wiring loom, but I suspect your dad wouldn't be too impressed by this

    Maybe try talking with 'TheEnd' about an EWS-delete.

    But as it's an M3, i'd highly recommend getting another type of immobilizer fitted.

    To be honest, I wouldn't be too happy about going down this route.... Maybe an auto-electrictian could trace a wiring fault between the EWS module and the DME ?

    Or even BMW. But that'll cost an arm and a leg.
     
     

  8.  
    #46
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    You have checked the fuses. Have you checked whether you have a constant +12v at the EWS unit on pin 5 (red/yellow wire maybe) and one of the wires on the transmitter (violet/white or violet/yellow maybe).

    I'm just thinking that something could be wrong with the wiring if your Dad's stuff didn't work
     
     

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    #47
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    ive got a mate whos a mechanic. im gunna ask him to take it to work and look at it afterwork/lunch for a bit.
    its not a daily driver so doesnt matter how long it takes.

    failing that a specialist (b&w has been recomended by a mate)

    thanks for all the help mate.

    i do have a clifford alarm i could get fitted but i wanted to fix the fault with the car rather than go around it.

    ill let u guys know how i get on anyway.
     
     

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    #48
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    yep all fuses checked and working.
    got lives where they should be.

    f31 is ews
    f46 is transmitter
    both ok
     
     

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  12.  
    #49
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    These things are like crosswords. After a while you just have to take a step back and look afresh.

    Have you tried unplugging the 3G alarm module? Just because its responding doesn't mean it isn't hanging the system somehow. Unplug it, lock the car, unlock and try again.

    Does your car have the full 18 button OBC? A feed from the code function locks the immobiliser out. You could try unplugging that too.
     
     

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    #50
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    Just been for a shower, and had a think about it (this is how dedicated to BFUK I am ).

    Is your central locking working (Apart from the double lock) ?
    Can you do a continuity test for the earth wire for the EWS module ?
    It's possible that this double lock and EWS are maybe linked with a common ground, and it's failed ?
    Also check for power at the EWS module.

    Second thing I was thinking about, and I really don't mean to insult your intelligence mate, but when you say your swapping the EWS module around, where's this module located your swapping ?
    From what you said so far, I think you've got the correct module, but I just want to make sure.
     
     

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