Instrument cluster removal DIY also here, http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...-90-Gauges.htm
Do a binnacle test, Hold down the mileage reset button with the ignition off, turn the ignition key to position 1, Wait for TEST to appear and then release reset button, watch as the binnacle does a self test. If gauges move then they are fine
I missed the bit on the cluster test.
Internal it will be then.
I'll pull it out and sweat the joints JIC
Turned the steering wheel to the desired angle and pulled the key out.
A firm grip on the T20 bit was all that was required
Lowered the wheel
Used a sucker that came with a light fitting, designed for changing the bulbs to ease the cluster forwards.
Unless I missed something rotating the cluster seemed like it would require a brutal amount of force so after wiggling and wobbling I bailed on this.
With the cluster in this position (and it does lift more) I slid it to the drivers side and then using hand (this buys a surprisiing amount of space) right hand to press the clip and left to throw over the lever and eject the plug I did the nearest, black, plug and then the blue. I then slid the cluster to the left and undid the white plug.
It then slid out to the left as per the various guides, I had to pay a little attention to the trip button to make sure it didn't get hooked.
My T6 was too small and the various interchangeable bits were too thick. A flat bladed jewellers screwdriver did the trick.
After the big reveal it became apparent this wasn't designed to easily remove the circuit board as it is melted plastic pins.
I tinned the soldering iron and sweated each of the pads for the temp gauge, including the two hard to reach ones under the plastic surrounding the bulb holders. Enough was exposed to touch the edge and do it.
The red circled bits are a square section that appears to be designed to hing out, although this in reality is a snap out one time deal. I initially avoided this as it didn't appear to be over the pins and I had no idea if something was under it.
The green circles are the section I removed with a floor board saw, it was what I had to hand.
I inadvertantly pushed the springy sides of one clips in too far. These are against the natural flow so if pushed too far in the pin hits the end of the clip and does not slide between them making assembly impossible.
Here, through the square hole, you see I could probably have reached all the connectors, or maybe only three to tighten them without drastic measures. Oh well it's a learning curve.
Back together, working fine, and self test passed. Now just have to live with it and see if it is indeed cured.
No warranty of any kind implied or given this is just what I have done on my car to try and resolve a problem and is not a suggestion.
200 miles on various surfaces later it's still working perfectly but time will tell.
Well it's been more than 2 months and is still working fine so I'm calling that fixed
Should this be a "How to"?
Lasted well into 2015, approximately 5 years, until total cluster failure of all instruments. An issue I could not track down resulting in a replaced cluster.
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