1995 E36 325i boot wiring problems! - Page 2

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    #11
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    Sphinx's Car Details
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    I'm having a similar issue where neither of my number plate lights work. Everything else in the bootlid works; lock actuator, boot light switch just not the number plate lights.
    I checked the loom as per this post and found some broken wires, soldered them back together and the lights still don't work I've checked the entire length of loom all the way back to inside the bootlid and can't see any more breaks.
    Please help
    Last edited by Sphinx; 18-02-2010 at 16:22.
     
     

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    #12
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    Anyone?
    The wires in mine were pretty mangled, could they have blown something further down the line?
    I've put new bulbs in and a new 10A fuse and still nothing.
     
     

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    #13
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    Bumping this again in the hope that someone can help.
    When the carpet was up I checked all the wires and couldn't see any breaks in them so I'm now completely stumped! the 10A fuse is still fine...could there be another system that causes this? I'm starting to think it more than just wires as both lights are out. Please can someone help.
     
     

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    #14
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    First thing to do sphinx is to start chasing the wires back for the number plate lamps. I have seen the wires snap in a different place even after repair...
    You can see what wire colours go into the no plate lamps and work back from there with a test light. Do as little stripping as possible just working back until you find the problem.
    A would also test for a live feed both sides of the fuse as well...
     
     

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    #15
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    Have you checked whether you're getting 12v at the number plate lights? Does your car have check control where a light comes on the dash to tell you a bulb is out? If not then the wires should both be grey/black. It goes through a 30 pin black connector behind the front passenger side kick panel so you could also test for voltage there. If it was the fuse you would have no backlighting on your switches/dash etc.
     
     

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    #16
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    Thanks guys, I'll go into a bit more detail:
    My car does have check control and when I turn the lights on I get the number plate light failure warning flag up. I checked the normal failure point and sure enough several wires were broken so I got a chunk of loom from inside the boot (the area that doesn't have any bends in) of a breakers yard car and replaced all the wiring from a few inches inside the bootlid to a few inches inside the boot. The 4 wires for the lights are: (1)grey/black with yellow stripes (2)brown (3)brown (4)grey/black.
    When I had the carpet up I inspected all the wiring and couldn't see any harsh bends or damage etc so I'm no stumped.
    Electrics aren't my strong point...by a long shot lol I have a multimeter but it's basically just a door stop.
     
     

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    #17
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    Are the repairs you made to the wires still intact/
    The grey/black and grey/black/yellow wires come from the check control module under the dash (not certain which side). They will run along the passenger side of the car to the back.
    I think the brown (earth) comes from behind the backrest of the back seat. You could check for anything obvious/broken there.
    Best bet would be to find the check module and test for voltage on the grey/black and grey/black/yellow wires
     
     

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    #18
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    Yeah the repairs I made are pretty strong if I do say so myself. As you say, the wires come through the C pillar and down under the carpet, all of which I've checked (as in un-wrapped and checked for visible damage)
    What do you mean by check module? Is there a sort of relay/box for each of the systems the check control monitors? The only things I've seen are little comb connectors that several wires of the same colour connect to.
     
     

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    #19
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    Can't believe it, just had a look at the wiring loom in the boot lid and found that i may have just found my where my problems live. I have no instrument cluster - fuse keeps blowing, no passenger lights - fuse keeps blowing, no drivers window, battery drained on me last week, no central locking - fuse keeps blowing. Not long after cutting back the seathing i found frayed/cut wires, will be attacking this with the soldering iron over the next couple of days, will post back with an update. Many thanks to the OP.
     
     

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    #20
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    Hi bpafc, how did you go with the soldering?

    I'm having some problems with my boot lid electrics as well. I had the Numberplate Fail message from the OBC so had a crack at replacing the non-working lamp today. Changing the bulb didn't fix the problem, and swapping over the lighting modules proved it was an issue with the wiring as both worked on the right hand side, neither on the left..

    After giving up on this I subsequently discovered that my boot was no longer locking via central locking. I was able to get it to lock after stripping back the carpet and moving the central locking actuator, however the only way I can unlock is to flip down the back seats, climb into the boot and flip the actuator again... (btw I have an e36 coupe, thankfully not convertible). I think I may have buggered up the wiring by opening and closing the boot so many times today "fixing" the numberplate. The wiring on the LHS of the boot is currently nice and tidy in a black sleeve so tomorrow's job is to try and roll back the sleeve to check on mine (and get someone to see if the actuator is doing anything when I lock/unlock).
    Last edited by BalhamBadger; 29-08-2010 at 00:49. Reason: added paragraphs
     
     

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