1995 e36 316i - A couple of retro-fit questions... - Page 2

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Thread: 1995 e36 316i - A couple of retro-fit questions...

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  1.  
    #11
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    Wiring in your Full OBC, to a car with only a clock:

    You will need:-
    wire strippers
    soldering iron
    insulation tape (heat shrink tubing)
    bit of wire to run into the engine bay (3m)
    Temp sensor
    white plug
    black plug

    Right, first of all, you need the black and white plugs that plug into the back of the OBC, you'll find these in any scrapped car with a full obc in it, while you're there nick the temp sensor from the engine bay too.

    Basically, The white plug on the full OBC, is your power inputs etc,

    The black plug on the other hand covers all the output funcions. ie, temperaure, coolant level, check control, peak speed, distance, limiter, range, mpg etc etc etc. Since the only function we are intersted in is the temperature, we will only be concerend with two wires from the black plug, where as we will need to connect four on the white plug.


    WHITE PLUG:

    Remove your clock and chop off the connector (not all at once though, because your metal strippers will fuse the 12V and earth wires and blow the fuse) - (cut each wires separatley and keep the plug, coz u might want to put the clock back in at a later date. By now, you'll have three wires: a permanent live (red/yellow stripes), an earth (brown) and a sidelight feed (grey/red stripes). You will also require another wire (an ignition live). To get this simply run a wire from the back of your stereo. You dont have to run one from here, just from anywhere that there is an ignition feed. In other words, a wire that only carries 12V when the ignition is switched on.

    Ignore the sidelight feed for the time being and take the three wires:-
    1. the perm live (red/yellow stripes)
    2. the ignition live (whatever colour wire you have run from the stereo)
    3. the earth (brown)

    Connect these by soldering to the following wires on the white OBC plug:-
    A. the (red/yellow hoops not stripes - (might be slioghtly different on early OBC's))
    B. (the red/brown wire)
    C. the (brown wire)

    1 to A - This permanent 12V feed allows the memory in the clock to keep the correct time and date, so that each time you turn the car on, the clock still reads the correct time.

    2 to B - This ignition feed, provides the power to the backlit display, this makes sure that the display only poweres up when the car's ignition is on!!

    3 to C - Earth wires - self explanatory really.


    BLACK PLUG:-

    Run two wires into the engine bay, behind your passenger headlamp, connect these to the temp sensor, make sure that you solder and heat shrink over the joint to make it weather proof (doesnt matter which way because they are resistance wires). fit the temp senosr into the little hole in the brake ducts in the front bumper.
    The other end of these wires, run into the centre console area and link to the OBC:-

    Connect the afore mentioned wires to the two wires on the black plug (green/black and green/blue)
    (again, it doesnt matter which way round).

    Now here's where the sidelight feed comes in:-

    Connect the sidelight feed (grey/red wire) to the sme colour wire on the black plug - This provides the power to the OBC buttons to light up. Since you only need these buttons to light up at night (or when it's dark) - (a sidelight feed is perfect). Because this means that when it's dark, you put your sidelights on, and when these come on, so do the lights on your OBC buttons - genious!!)

    Once you have checked all six joints (3 white, 3 black), are soldered corectly and properly insulated, you have finished the hard work!!!

    Plug the two plugs into the back of your OBC, tidy up the wires and then fit the computer back into place.

    All done.
     
     

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to wolvesdug For This Useful Post:

    iced_uk (12-02-2010),Lamper (09-02-2010),xXxStKxXx (09-02-2010)

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  4.  
    #12
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    Thanks, mate!

    Does anyone know about the digital climate control??
     
     

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    #13
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    billywhizz1984's Car Details
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    Lamper (10-02-2010)

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    #14
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    Link one isn't very helpful at all. Links two and three were answered with:

    "It's a big PITA, but anything is possible!"
    "Heater matrix behind the dash, climate control unit, and abit of wiring loom."
    "you would need to replace the radiator and so many other things too long to list."

    So that's not very helpful either.

    Hence I said: "There's not a lot of information on it.."
     
     

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    #15
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    I had a look at fitting the digital controls for heating and to be honest mate its not really worth the hassle or money. And on top of that they're prone to cocking up quite abit so i'd stick with the manual controls.

    Top of my head what I can think of that you'll need is:

    - New vents and ducts
    - Loom
    - heater matrix pipes/sensors/valves
    - and maybe a new heater matrix for dual temp control?

    Alot of removing and fitting required, its not an easy "scratch-your-head" and solder a few wires together job
     
     

  9.  
    #16
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    I think the point with the air-con retrofit is that everyone has considered it so complicated and time-consuming to do that they haven't bothered - hence no info.

    I'll have a go at listing everything you need to acquire and do if you like, however the perceived wisdom on a forum of BMW experts is that it's pointless so I have to ask if there any mileage in pursuing it?
     
     

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    #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by billywhizz1984 View Post
    I think the point with the air-con retrofit is that everyone has considered it so complicated and time-consuming to do that they haven't bothered - hence no info.

    I'll have a go at listing everything you need to acquire and do if you like, however the perceived wisdom on a forum of BMW experts is that it's pointless so I have to ask if there any mileage in pursuing it?
    Even though others consider it to be such a huge task it's not worth it, I really would like to look into actually doing it.

    In my opinion, I would happily spend the effort and long days carrying it out, as I can be quite driven when I want something!
     
     

  11.  
    #18
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    OK, In that case you'll need to acquire the following -

    Climate head unit
    Climate unit wiring harness cut back to the loom
    Climate control unit
    Dash centre air vent
    Complete air box & fan assembly & wiring
    Radiator with electric puller fan & wiring
    Condensor & hoses
    Evaporator & hoses
    Compressor with mounting bracket, belts & hoses
    Engine pulley for use with compressor

    In fact most of the items in this link

    http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3..._conditioning/

    To fit these items you'll have to remove the steering wheel, glovebox, centre console, instruments and the entire dashboard, airbox & fan assembly, all the air ducts, drain the cooling system, remove the front bumper, grille, radiator & fan coupling. You'll also have to do some major surgery on your fuse box as it houses separate relays for the air-con.

    My advice to you is to find a 316, or possibly a 318, with the full climate system at a local breakers and remove it yourself. This way you can be sure it works, you'll have every part you need and most importantly you'll learn about the fitting process into the bargain.
    Last edited by billywhizz1984; 26-08-2010 at 21:02.
     
     

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    #19
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    Okay, that's great, cheers. It's certainly no small job..

    Certainly something I'll do one day!
     
     

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    #20
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    If you ever get round doing the climate comversion please make notes, take photos and post it here!

    The OBC conversion is a lot easier. PM me if you get stuck with it.
     
     

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    Lamper (11-02-2010)

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