1995 325i E36 Saloon, Central Locking problem. (FIXED) - Page 2

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Thread: 1995 325i E36 Saloon, Central Locking problem. (FIXED)

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  1.  
    #11
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    Just a wee update on my problem.

    Haven't took the door cards off yet.
    Ran a diagnostic with carsoft came back with fault in ZV- relay unlock sticking. Took the relay from under the drivers side out, front doors still locked, no rear
    Took different ones out and front still locked, no rear, where is it?
    Haynes manual says its under the right facia but took them all out, front still worked, no rear lock, is there a separate relay for the rear doors?
     
     

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    #12
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    All doors and boot are from the same supply from the module (no relay), so I would check for bad connections in the wiring or problems with the actuators.
    If you have door switches in the door jambs then check these are working ok
     
     

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    #13
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    Haynes manual not worth a dam, clearly says relay location for central locking under right facia, wasted my time then

    These switches at the door jambs do they all E36's have them, is it child locks buy any chance? thanks
     
     

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    #14
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    I would say it's time to dig out the test light and check for voltage at the actuator plugs when the central locking is operated.
     
     

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    #15
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    I'm not sure whether on your car the central locking is controlled by the ZKE module or ZVM module. If it's the ZVM then there are relays inside which may be what your fault code relates to. The module should be behind the glovebox. I would check for voltage at the actuators as Ronnie says. There should be power between the blue/green wire and the black or white wire depending whether you lock or unlock.
     
     

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    #16
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    #17
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    Just done a test with the multimeter results:
    Done with ignition on
    White= 0.6mV
    Black= 0.6mV
    blue/wht = 0.6mv

    ignition off reading for all three 0 mV

    Getting a large spike reading when opening and unlocking cant read it too quick
    Last edited by bigedd9990; 05-04-2009 at 22:52.
     
     

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    #18
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    I would say test between the blue/white wire and the white wire for voltage or between the blue/white wire and the black wire for voltage when locking. Is that what you're doing? I haven't tried this myself before either.
     
     

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    #19
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    Will give it a try tomorrow, would i be right in saying the negative terminal of the multimeter will always be in the blue/white when testing, the other connectors black and white will be the positive terminal of the multimeter alternately
     
     

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    #20
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    I said initially the wire was blue/green but it's blue/grey. I take that's the one you're seeing as blue/white

    that's how to set up the test, but the polarity will change depending on lock/unlock. The meter should read though, but show the volts as +ve or -ve.
    it might be an idea to check one of the working doors and compare readings.

    Here's some diagrams which will either overload you or help you
    Attached Files
     
     

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