1994 E36 325i - 3G (Mk1) alarm fobs

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  1. 1994 E36 325i - 3G (Mk1) alarm fobs 
    #1
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    OK, thanks to the brilliant guide by 'billywhizz1984' on alarm systems I'd deduced that my car has a 3G Mk1 alarm system.
    I bought the car with no fobs but it did however come with the small alarm key, a little tag and the BMW alarm booklet with some codes etc on it, but all I'm missing is the fobs.
    I know the system of re-soldering the chip into the same pins if you have a spare AND an original to go off, but as I don't I'd like to know something:
    These fobs all have a sticker on the chip reading 'DM' and then several numbers, is there a way of telling how the chip is supposed to be soldered in place going by these numbers? Or indeed any other way to tell how it's supposed to be using anything other than an original fob?

    Also: I noticed that a brown/white wire runs from the alarm module under the glovebox to the C-piller wiring for the bootlid (just underneath the rear seat sides that you can pull off). I've looked at several e36's in breakers yard and they're all the same, albeit with some minor differences due to the individual who fitted them at the dealerships when new.
    Mine however was run under the carpet and had chaffed and snapped. I've fixed this but can anyone tell me what it was for?

    Any help much appreciated
     
     

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    LGB
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    Absolutely no idea for the first part!

    However i think you'll find that the wire in question is the alarm trigger for the bootlid switch.
    E36 - 318is - M-Tech
    (EU12335)
     
     

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    Sphinx (06-04-2010)

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    Good question Sphinx! The receiver part of the module and the fobs are set to the same frequency. It may be that the receiver has an identical array pattern to copy but you'll need to open it up to find out. No idea how to decipher the chip code, we'll need some info from a working system to do that. It might be worth asking at the dealer as the BMW database might hold the code info as input by the original dealership and they may be able to supply a fob pre-coded. I need to find a 3G (Mk1) at the breakers so I can examine it further......
     
     

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    Sphinx (12-04-2010)

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    Thanks guys, last time I asked the dealer about 'technical' stuff like this I was met with a blank look so I won't waste my time doing that again.
    Billy, you say in your guide that the receiver might be able to be swapped with a Mk2 unit. What about another Mk1 unit with the correct fob? (I've only just thought of that annoyingly as I was at the breakers earlier).

    The problem/dilemma I'm having is that I've NO idea if the alarm works or not. It's been turned off at the siren, I assume this would have been when the fobs were lost OR problems arose when the wire chaffed. For these reasons I'm really keen to not spend any money (or very little!) on fobs etc incase it's all wasted.

    Edit: Also, another one for Billy: EWS....talk to me. It's a chip in the key, that's about all I know, is it an immobiliser?
    Out of the 3G alarms (both mk1 and mk2), do either of them have an immobiliser or are they JUST remote locking and alarms?

    Edit 2: I've just noticed the codes on the stickers read DNM and then 7 digits, after looking at Billy's guide there are 7 pins either side of the chip...could there be a link?
    Last edited by Sphinx; 06-04-2010 at 21:22.
     
     

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    The remote receiver does what it says on the tin. The Mk1 and Mk2 receivers are identical in construction, purpose and connections so in theory they can be swapped, however I need a Mk1 receiver to test this theory! If you get another Mk1 reciever with a working fob it should be a straight swap.

    EWS translates as Electronic Driveway Protection system. The chip in the key is picked up by a transponder ring around the ignition barrel. The EWS system checks to see if the chip "code" matches and if so it allows the car to start. The 3G alarm system isn't an immobiliser in it's own right. It piggybacks onto the EWS system as a second line of protection so you have to have the alarm unset and the correct key to start the car. If you have the full OBC the "Code" function does much the same thing, so if you set that too you have three lines of protection.

    What are the 7 digits? How many of the 7 are soldered on your fob?
     
     

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    Sphinx (06-04-2010)

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    That's what I suspected, in which case it would easier to find either a matching pair of Mk1 items or indeed any mk2 receiver and a 2 button fob to diy programme.

    I take it only the 3G Mk2 system is compatible with EWS? as my car doesn't have EWS (but has a 3G Mk1 alarm judging by the box under the glovebox).

    I don't have a fob for my car, only the alarm documentation with the code written on it. I have however managed to find two mk2 one button fobs in breakers cars and was comparing then a few minutes ago. Unfortunately no matter how hard I looked I couldn't see a pattern between the numbers and the soldered joins.
     
     

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    Both 3G systems can be used with or without EWS, depends on the way they are wired into the loom.

    I've not seen the documentation for the Mk1 system can you post some pics please?

    On the Mk1 fobs you have how many of the 7 spots are soldered? The fob I have has only 4 which means there are "only" 340 possible combinations!
     
     

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    Sphinx (12-04-2010)

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    It's just a BMW leaflet for the 'BMW Approved Anti-Theft System 3' with some instructions, I'll take some pictures if you want. I might even have a spare one somewhere.
    I'll also get pictures of the fobs I have, from memory there are only 4 joins but I could be wrong.
     
     

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    Ok, pic time.

    Leaflet:


    Removed pics

    Hope that's what you wanted Billy.
    Last edited by Sphinx; 10-04-2010 at 18:41.
     
     

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    UPDATE:

    It bloomin works! I'm soooo chuffed!!

    Story goes that I bought the car with no fobs but it did have the little siren key. The siren was switched off which I assume disables the alarm/immobiliser and I just used the normal key.
    When I took the carpet up I noticed that one wire from the alarm box that ran to the rear of the car was chaffed. I'm guessing that when this happened, the previous owner had all sorts of problems and just switched the system off at the siren and either threw away or lost the fobs.
    I replaced this length of wire and as far as I could physically see, that was the system back how it should be...apart from the fact I still had no fobs and therefore had no way of soldering a copy.
    So, today I managed to find an e36 in a breakers with a 3G Mk1 system (like mine) and it even had a fob laying on the floor. I plugged the new receiver into my existing alarm, switched it on at the siren and tried the fob...nothing :( But I realised the system might need to reset or charge so I started the car and let it run for a few minutes and tried it again... It works! I'm sooooo chuffed.

    However!
    I know nothing about how these alarms are supposed to arm etc so can someone please tell me what exactly should happen in various situations:
    - When you shut all the doors/windows and press the button, how many flashes and beeps etc should occur?
    - When you go to unlock it, again, how many flashes and beeps?
    - Is anything supposed to happen if you hold the button down?
    etc etc etc

    Thanks
     
     

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