1994 E36 325 Oct Coupe Fault Code 1221 Lambda (O2) Sensor 1

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  1. 1994 E36 325 Oct Coupe Fault Code 1221 Lambda (O2) Sensor 1 
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    So, read flash codes and have the above error.

    There are two parts to this post

    1) Been lazy but not looked under the car, but assuming I have pre and post cat sensors or one on each branch which one is this one? I could manufacture extra faults by disconnecting to see but not keen on that.


    2) Replacement sensors, note all prices are approximate and not quoted
    • £79 from a local factor
    • £58 Euro car parts
    • £47 Euro car parts without multiplug i.e. attach crimp or solder
    • £20 Ebay

    Now I'm not above soldering on a connector, I'm not a fan of crimped connectors, to save a few pounds. However, if doing that to save a few pounds is there any good reason not to go for the £20 units?

    Lambda sensors are pretty generic I think, not to mention the amount of times I have bought unbranded EFI bits to find the same part number moulded in, ok not on BM so far, so I'm thinking generics are probably cheap as they don't have to make a thousand different wire lengths and keep a dozen different ends in stock.

    My preference would be to solder and use some resin heat shrink, unless this has issues.

    I suppose I should price the BM part as at the moment my thinking is, if buying generic £20 generic beats £80 generic.


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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    1) Been lazy but not looked under the car.
    yep http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...77&hg=18&fg=10

    I suggest you only use a genuine OEM sensor...I had an aftermarket sensor,fitted by the people who lost my exhaust and it never worked....You may be lucky but that is highly doubtful
     
     

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    On paper, they are all the same, but cheaper ones are crap.

    Take cam and crank sensors, it seems like half of the people that fit a non genuine one end up swapping it a month later.

    If the sensor is bosch, then it should be better.
    You'll only have the one lambda, just before the cat in a pipe where boths the exhausts meet.

    Lambda errors can be caused by a number of things though, if will flag an error if the expected readings are wrong from different causes.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by StK View Post
    yep

    I suggest you only use a genuine OEM sensor...I had an aftermarket sensor,fitted by the people who lost my exhaust and it never worked....You may be lucky but that is highly doubtful
    Cheers, seen the diagram but part 29 being unspecified left me wondering.


    I would say that if people can lose an exhaust that might infer something about competancy to do the job of fitting a sensor so not necesserily a good example to put blame on the sensor but point appreciated.


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    not on your car,you only have the one Lambda pre cat.....part No 25
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheEnd View Post
    On paper, they are all the same, but cheaper ones are crap.

    Take cam and crank sensors, it seems like half of the people that fit a non genuine one end up swapping it a month later.

    If the sensor is bosch, then it should be better.
    You'll only have the one lambda, just before the cat in a pipe where boths the exhausts meet.

    Lambda errors can be caused by a number of things though, if will flag an error if the expected readings are wrong from different causes.
    I'll check all the wiring out etc. However, the MOT guy said it took a while to start reading correctly so I'm thinking heater circuit as without the flow of air while stationary......but no specific error for that.

    I do like branded products. Pay too little and you get nothing for your money, pay too much and well it works you just paid too much, at least you have something to show for the cash.

    However, economies of scale dictate that most of the time the generics are built on the same lines to the same quality with the same materials. Builting 100,000 grade one units costs less than maintaining two lines or standards to produce 50,000 grade one and 50,000 grade two.

    Didn't expect people to be so dead against, interesting.

    As you say though, if it was a Bosch on a set of tails I would feel a lot happier, but on a £600, paying out 13.3%< for a sensor seems harsh.

    £58.90 on Euro gets me Bosch with the connector
    £47.47 on Euro gets me Bosch wuth tails

    For the extra £11.43 I would be inclined to get with connector...... hmmmm


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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328
    Didn't expect people to be so dead against, interesting.

    As you say though, if it was a Bosch on a set of tails I would feel a lot happier, but on a £600, paying out 13.3%< for a sensor seems harsh.

    £58.90 on Euro gets me Bosch with the connector
    £47.47 on Euro gets me Bosch wuth tails

    For the extra £11.43 I would be inclined to get with connector...... hmmmm
    The place which lost my exhaust got a cheap aftermarket exhaust and stuck on a bosch lambda sensor without the connector...they then butchered my loom so they could wire it in and never worked.I have since replaced the exhaust and put on a genuine sensor and replaced the wiring and it now works,cleared all the faults off the ECU and fingers crossed they haven't come back again

    Personally with my experiance I would say use genuine sensors because the BMW DME doesn't like aftermarket sensors even if they're the same make
     
     

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    You have to admit that your repairing the loom shows joining done correctly is not a problem, so hmm sensor quality is all eh?


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    All I did wass replace the butchered loom for an original one...they had wired up the aftermarket one correctly......End of the day it is your choice,too many people end up regretting the aftermarket route with sensors though...whats the saying buy cheap buy twice....

    I see you saying on a £600 is that what you paid for the car?Just cause the car is cheap doesn't mean replacement parts are though,hence why your car is worth more breaking it then selling it whole
     
     

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    Pattern lambdas should be fine but there's two different types and you need to ensure you get the correct one. Basically nearly all lambda sensors are zirchonia type whichare cheaper and have (generally) grey, black and/or White wires. Some lambdas are Titania/titanium and these are generally more expensive and usually have red and yellow wires. Provided the replacement probe is the same type (ie zirchonia or Titania) you shouldn't have any trouble with pattern parts or even soldered wiring. BMW did use the Titania type for a while in the mid nineties which I found out when ECP wrongly supplied me with the zirchonia type for my M52 323.
    It should be easy to tell which type you need by removing the top plastic cover from the engine where the lambda plugs are and checking the colours of the wires.
     
     

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