1994 e36 320i Coupe - Starter interlock relay Diagnose how? - Page 2

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Thread: 1994 e36 320i Coupe - Starter interlock relay Diagnose how?

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  1.  
    #11
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    Thanks the relay is fine and so is the relay already in the car. I tested the starter motor and that is ok but I've just put the car back together again after re-fitting the starter and its still the same, just like in my videos only without even cranking at all this time.

    What else could of gone wrong? Also I think I'm going to need help turning my security off as I don't have a fob and the alarm keeps going off.

    Can anyone help ?

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    #12
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    Aftermarket alarm, or standard ?
     
     

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    #13
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    standard m8

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    #14
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    1st things 1st, the starter is clicking so there is nothing wrong with the relay. I would be giving the engine another earth to check for a earth fault. The earth straps on the E36 can be crap, they run from the drivers engine mount bracket to a lug just in front of the o/s anti roll bar mounting point on the chassis leg. Try a jump lead from a metal part of the engine to a bare metal part on the chassis, usually from the hoist bracket on the vanos, to one of the nuts on the front strut tops does the job and then see if it turns over.
     
     

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    w4vy (02-08-2011)

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    #15
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    Try what Steve has suggested as the earths are poor... Then, i'd try disconnecting the battery from the boot, and hooking it upto the positive post in the engine bay (Or use another car) to rule out the wiring from the boot to the positive post.

    Failing that, try a battery direct to the starter which will eleminate any wiring issues from the positive post through the engine bay to the starter.

    Also check for lose wires on the alternator. (I don't think this will be so much of a problem, as I believe the power comes from the junction to the starter then to the alternator, but worth a check)
     
     

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    w4vy (02-08-2011)

  9.  
    #16
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    Cheers guys still not working though and this is what I tried.

    Negative jumper lead from vanos engine hoist direct to negative battery
    Positive jumper lead from P post in engine bay direct to positive battery

    I also tried just adding another earth, again from the vanos hoist to the front top strut bolts while the battery was still in the boot

    My alarm is doing my head in it won't deactivate, the alarm goes off every time I try to open the door or sit in the car, I wait and it stops so I try again and off it goes again.

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    #17
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    You've still got 2 things to try from my previous post
     
     

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    #18
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    So I have to remove the intake manifold again? to get access to the starter motor to try the from starter to battery direct test.

    sigh
    lol

    ok so if I unplug the fuel pump relay that will stop fuel squirting everywhere once I've removed the manifold right?

    already checked the alternator wiring and it's fine.

    What about my alarm/immob though I can't get in the car or open a door without it going off?

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    #19
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    I'd probably remove the alternator, and connect the feed direct to the alternator wire. Easier than removing the manifold again. It could probably be done in less than 15mins !

    I'm not sure about this alarm problem. It could be down to this power issue.
     
     

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    #20
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    Isn't there something I can do with a multimeter instead of taking the alternator off?

    EDIT: probably not as I'm by myself and would no doubt need some one to turn the ignition.

    EDIT2: so you just want me to use the wire don't you not actually remove the alt ?

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