1994 e34 518i blowing fuse no.32 - Page 3

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    #21
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    Go to the diagram in my link - go to section 6100 and the connectors are shown on the second page with what each pin does
     
     

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    richardmlees (09-01-2011)

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    #22
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    Hey, thanks again Gildersol.

    The link you posted has further links to diagrams for several models, but not a 1995/6 518i. Which of these are you referring to or are they all common in this regard?

    I'm also a little stumped in that I can't see voltages mentioned anywhere. How do I know what voltage I should be seeing at any specific point? If I'm supposed to calculate this, I'm WAY out of my depth Possibly here, I'm simply demonstrating my ignorance in these matters.

    It seems I'm not getting power to the actuators from the Power Distribution Box, so was hoping to make sure I'm getting the correct power to it before replacing either the GM or RM.

    Your advice and the diagrams mean I should be able to work out which circuits have been spliced into so I know whether that might be a factor (again, Thanks, your help is much appreciated)

    How do determin the voltages I should be seing at the various pins?

    Again thanks for your help.
     
     

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    #23
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    Well, thanks everyone for all the help.

    I think I've now solved the issue. The problem was intermittent and having changed drivers door actuator, General Module, Relay Module, and checked wiring, I was really running out of ideas. My last ditch was changing F31 & F32, both of which looked fine, and I didn't think they were the problem as it sometimes worked and sometimes not.

    Wrong - changed the fuses and all seems to be OK. Since there is water in that area of the car, all I can think is that there is moisture in the fuse causing it to work intermittently. Don't know if anyone out there has ever come accross that problem with a fuse before, but it's sure as hell a new one to me.

    Note to self - change fuse first even if it looks OK

    I'm going to see if I can get some or all of my money back tomorrow on the RM and GM. If I do, I'll send some of it in the direction of Bimmer Forums to say thanks for all the help and ideas.

    Thanks again,

    Richard.

    PS any hints or links anyone could give me regarding reading circuit diagrams properly so I can work out voltages etc would still be much appreciated, but obviously not of high importance any more.
     
     

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    gildersol (10-01-2011),Ronnie (10-01-2011)

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  8.  
    #24
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    OK, a final update, hopefully.

    The problems here were caused by water getting into the car in the area of the rear passenger footwell, effectively leaving the box under the rear seat sat in water. That box houses both the general and relay modules.

    The problems caused by this water includeed:
    1. Fuses working intermittently but appearing absolutely fine (can only assume water in the fuses themselves or possibly damp connections)
    2. Both the General and Relay modules playing up (even after having been removed and left in a warm & dry environment for a period)
    3. Besides the black box, there is also a bundle of wires coming from the front of the car and feeding into the area under the rear seat but not connecting to anything there. Removing the tape around the bundle of wires shows there to be several spliced wires. These splices were now green and furry.

    Jobs done to resolve:
    1. Changed fuses 32 & 33
    2. Replaced General and Relay modules
    3. Re-spliced wires in bundle not connected to anything in the area of the backseat.
     
     

  9. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to richardmlees For This Useful Post:

    3D Rookie (25-02-2011),Ronnie (17-01-2011)

  10.  
    #25
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    Cheers for the update Richard,
     
     

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