1994 e34 518i blowing fuse no.32 - Page 2

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  1.  
    #11
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    richardmlees's Car Details
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    Thanks Ronnie, although I don't think that's the issue here. The problem was that the anti-theft device was still engaged so I couldn't open the rear doors to gain access to the box of tricks under the back seat.

    Part of my problem now is that the weather is somewhat warmer than it was and it seems to play up most in the cold (i.e. sub zero C) - much harder to find the problem when it's not manifesting:(

    As things have developed, so has my knowledge, so I have a clearer idea of what the issue is, and it may be that there are 2 seperte issues.

    Effectively, when locking the car, the locks bounce. Turning the key a second time locks the car. However, if the alarm is set, several hours later, it will likely trip for no apparent reason (though again, this started with the onset of winter).

    if it's really cold, then the vehicle will not unlock with the alarm fob, and turning the key in any of the doors which activate the central locking only unlocks that single lock and does not activate the central locking nor disable the anti-theft device, hence the rest of the problems. When the interior light was flickering, a relay could also be heard clicking under the backseat, and trying to start the car, the starter made the kind of noise you'd expect if the starter needed replacing. Seems like rather than the anti-theft being either on or off, it was flickering between the 2 states.

    Gildersol's suggestion regarding a switch (locking or light) sounds quite possible as a cause here, which is why I was asking where the lock switches are located. Are they part of the lock mechanism? Is it something that can be tripped manually to test?

    Again, thanks for all the help
     
     

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  3.  
    #12
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    If you look at the diagram on the link I posted, under central locking or interior lights, you will see the door lock switches and door jamb switches. If you look at the reference no.s next to them, you can then follow the section called component location, you can see diagrams of their location.

    There's no guarantee, it's just a suggestion
     
     

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    #13
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    As of yet have you checked the fusible links? from the description you have just given it sounds a prime candidate, see here for a guide/more info.

    http://bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenanc...sible_link.htm
     
     

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    gildersol (08-01-2011)

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    #14
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    Again, thanks everyone for the help. The problem with the back doors is that if the temperature is cold then whichever way I try to unlock the car does not activate the central locking and therefore does not deactivate the anti-theft system. Without being able to open the back doors, I can't get at the rear lock mechanisms and have severely restricted access to the box of tricks under the rear seat.

    The locking has "bounced" on and off for a couple of years, but recently, the alarm has tripped for no apparent reason, and now, if it's cold, I get an additional beep to indicate that something isn't closed.

    What I have also noticed very recently is that the rear passenger side footwell is soaked (water getting in somewhere) and the insulation under the box (with the relay and general module) is also pretty sodden. Could this be primarily because the electrics are getting wet?

    Thanks again everybody.
     
     

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    #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by richardmlees View Post
    Again, thanks everyone for the help. The problem with the back doors is that if the temperature is cold then whichever way I try to unlock the car does not activate the central locking and therefore does not deactivate the anti-theft system. Without being able to open the back doors, I can't get at the rear lock mechanisms and have severely restricted access to the box of tricks under the rear seat.

    The locking has "bounced" on and off for a couple of years, but recently, the alarm has tripped for no apparent reason, and now, if it's cold, I get an additional beep to indicate that something isn't closed.

    What I have also noticed very recently is that the rear passenger side footwell is soaked (water getting in somewhere) and the insulation under the box (with the relay and general module) is also pretty sodden. Could this be primarily because the electrics are getting wet?

    Thanks again everybody.
    Get checking that fusible link then,

    And yes, if you have water ingress into the car it for sure can give you electrical problems, if it's damp under the rear seat base then it could have got into any of the control modules or fuses or fusible links and create problems.

    Looks like you are going to have to clamber around a bit and remove the rear seat base with the rear doors closed.(It's easy, done a few myself)
     
     

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    richardmlees (08-01-2011)

  9.  
    #16
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    Thanks for that Ronnie. Luckily, this time I left the back seat out so access isn't so hard. I've removed the modules to see what happens in a bit once they are warmer and dryer. Looks like I need to work out where the water's coming from, but on the upside, I could end up solving all problems at once

    I'll let you know how I get on and thanks again for the assistance.

    (Oh, and changed the fusible link about a week ago - needed doing as it was split, but made no difference)
     
     

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    #17
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    Hi Again,

    While I know how to use a meter, I'm certainly no electrician, so am looking for a little more assistance if anyone can help. As part of this, I changed the drivers door actuator, but before re-connecting, I checked voltage to the pins feeding it and am seeing about 1.5 at one pin, .7 at another, and 0v at any of the remining pins. I would have thought the motor was 12v so would have expected to see 12v at at least one of the pins?

    The diagrams I can find, including those referred to Gildersol seem to cover pretty much every model apart from the 518i and to be honest, I can't read the diagrams well enough to work out what voltage I should be expecting to see at the connectors going into/out of the power distribution box under the rear seat. Since this is sitting in water, I'm assuming for the moment that this is likely where my problem lies.

    Does anyone know what voltages I should be expecting to see at the connecters going into and out of that module and at the relays/fuses? I'm hoping I can verify that the power to that if I check the voltage at each of these pins and they are OK, then replacing it and the 2 cassette type modules and rechecking voltages will tell me whether I'm either losing power to that unit and whether something is wrong with one of the VCR looking modules. I need to remove it anyway to try to get it dried out underneath and see if I can see where the water is coming from.

    Thanks again everyone
     
     

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    #18
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    I think the wires at the actuator are
    red/green
    white/black
    white/green
    white
    blue
    black

    with one probe of your multimeter on a known good earth you should see
    +12v all the time when you touch the other probe on the red/green wire (as long as fuse 32 is not blown)
    +12v on the white/black wire when lock is in unlocked state
    +12v on the white/green wire when lock is in locked state

    The other 3 wires are more difficult to explain as the voltage changes polarity as the lock is locked/unlocked.

    If you put one probe on the white wire and the other probe on either of the blue or black, you should see either +12v or -12v as you lock/unlock the actuator.
     
     

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    richardmlees (09-01-2011)

  13.  
    #19
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    Thanks Gildersol. I'm definately not getting anything like that to the actuator. Any ideas what the voltages are supposed to be to the power distribution unit under the rear seat? The whole area under that side of the back seat and the footwell are soaked. My hunch is that either the relay module or the general module are now bust as a result of the water, but just hoped to check the voltage was OK to it before looking at changing the modules.

    PS recently made redundant, so don't have much cash, but if I've still any left once I get this resolved, I'll see if I can elp towards the forum target for the month. Least I can do after all the assistance.
     
     

  14.  
    #20
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    OK, sorry for yet another post here, but I think I might be finally getting somewhere. In the power distribution box, there are 2 modules that look somewhat like VCR casettes. One has 2 large connecters all of which are large pins. The other has 4 connector blocks, one end is a connector with 5 large pins. At the other end is a yellow connector block with what looks to be 26 small pins. Does anybody know what passes through that yellow conector? Something has been spliced in and with the water issue, I think it likely to be where my problem is.

    Thanks again.

    It looks like something (possibly the alarm) has been spliced into it (wires soldered or twisted and wraped in insulation tape). If that block ties into the electrical areas manifesting problems, then my guess is my problem is the splices compined with them being sat in water.
     
     

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