1994 e34 518i blowing fuse no.32

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  1. 1994 e34 518i blowing fuse no.32 
    #1
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    Hi guys,
    I'm new here so please forgive me if this thread is a bit messy.
    I have an e34 518i, the problem started a couple of weeks ago... the central locking could not be activated by the passenger door key, it would just lock that door only. The drivers door would operate the central locking but all the locks would open again and they would lock with a second turn of the key. Last week fuse no. 32 under the back seat kept blowing and when it blows there is no central locking, no elec. windows, the wipers will only work on the quickest speed and the ignition is imobilised (no starter, no spark and no fuel pump)..
    Today I went to the breakers yard and got a replacement actuator for passenger door and another relay module (black casette type box under the back seat ) because the fuse didn't blow when that box was removed.
    I replaced them and the car started, locked and unlocked and started again, everything worked perfectly.. Then half an hour later I went to take it for a drive, it unlocked and started no prob then I went to drop the drivers window and it didn't work... so I turned off the ignition and tried to start again and nothing.. I'm back to the same problem.. fuse keeps blowing and now I dont know what to do.....
    If anyone has any suggestions I would really appreciate it coz I love this car and my wife is whispering " scrap it, scrap it"
    Happy new year,
    Ian.
     
     

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    Check the wiring at the boot hinge, on the e34 it shorts out when the insulation cracks
     
     

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    Freaky... just posted similar reply in another thread created by OP
     
     

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  6. Similar symptoms but fuses all ok 
    #4
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    Hi,

    I'm experiencing very similar symptoms with my 1996 E34 518i except that all fuses are OK, both sets (those under back seat and those in engine bay). I've checked the wiring at the boot hinge, and as far as I can tell, there were a few wires with cracks(the wire itself was OK) so I wrapped them with insulation tape. I would have thought it unlikely that wires shorting was my problem if the fuses weren't blowing anyway. I've also replaced the linked fuse on the battery +ve lead. Additionally, it seems that when the ignition key is turned to posn 2, if the abs light comes on with the rest, then the problem occurs, otherwise it doesn't. This latter bit with the ABS might not always apply, I just noticed it didn't light last time the car started.

    I've now got an aditional problem in that I can't seem to unlock the back doors, even manually. Lifting the bolt does not release the lock mechanism in the door and once you let go of the bolt, it slowly returns to the locked position.

    On the off chance, I'll try replacing fuse 32 on the off chance it looks ok, but isn't, and let people know if that works. Is there a common earth that could be causing the problem?

    Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
    Last edited by richardmlees; 05-01-2011 at 20:27. Reason: Forgot to include the ABS bit first time. Sorry
     
     

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    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    The problems that are caused by the boot hinge wiring issue are not only short circuits between + and -. The wires can bare and touch each other causing circuits to be made when they are not meant to be. Also the conductors of the wires can get broken inside the insulation where you can't see them.
    May not be your problem but it's worth giving them a proper check.

    As for fuse 32 check the wiring to the drivers door lock switch and the drivers door lock actuator switch are ok, not shorting or anything. Maybe where the wiring runs into the door.
     
     

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    Thanks for that BFUK. Any suggestions as to how I can check the integrity of the wire within the insulation if there is no visible break in the insulation? I've picked up a replacement actuator for the drivers door (though think I've been supplied wrong part - looks to be for E36 not E34 so am trying to get it swapped this am). In terms of the wiring going to the drivers door, is there an easy way to check this, particularly where it runs through the hinge, without having to remove the door?
    Thanks again for your help
     
     

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    Just to provide some further detail on the problem, I have disconnected the drivers door actuator and am seeing no improvement (will try the rest although need to work out how to remove boot toolkit so I can remove boot trim to access boot actuator) so doesn't look like that's the issue. Ive also noticed when it plays up happen, the interior light flickers. Cold weather also seems to make matters worse. i.e. nwhen below freezing, unlocking only unlocks the door the key has was a break in the wire, would this be likely to happen, or is it more likely to be something like a dry joint in one of the VCR type modules under the back seat?

    Recently, the alarm has also been tripping sporadically. Is there anything with the Serpi Star alarms that indicates what tripped the alarm? At least that would narrow the circuits down.

    If anyone wants to be [I]really[I] helpful, then they could supply a wiring diagram for my car (E34 1995 518i) as I've only got the Haynes manual which is neither use nor ornament for trying to resolve this.

    Thanks.
     
     

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    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    Door lock switches could be the problem or door jamb switches if the interior light is flickering

    Also, have a look here for diagrams: http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm
     
     

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    richardmlees (07-01-2011)

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    Hey Gildersol, thanks again for the prompt reply.

    OK, got to ask what you do you do for a living? Just curious cos you seem to really know your sh1t here

    2 things, firstly where are these switches (Haynes is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard here!!) and secondly, do they feedback to the control unit? I'm just wondering why they might cause the locks to bounce?
     
     

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    Richard, the back door problem sounds like the actuators have failed in the closed position.

    I've had to remove the door panel and get the door open before all while it is closed.

    See here for a guide which will show you what you pretty much have to do. http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dead...cked_door.html
     
     

  14. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Ronnie For This Useful Post:

    gildersol (07-01-2011),richardmlees (08-01-2011)

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