1993 318is coupe electric windows stopped working

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  1. 1993 318is coupe electric windows stopped working
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    jamesore's Car Details
    Model of Car:
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    Year of Manufacture:
    1993
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    Hi All. I hope somebody can help me with my electric window problem.

    History
    Starter needed replacing so I disconnected battery and left it disconnected for about 10 days while it was being repaired. When I refitted started and connected battery back up windows stopped working.

    They do drop 5mm when the door is opened and close again when closed.
    I have no comfort relay - control module iv fitted - I swapped this out but it made no difference.

    When I tested it on a long journey I managed to get both windows down and up again but it took about 1 hour of constant clicking while driving. It moved in small jolts of between 5 and 30 mm. I had to press button at least 500 times to do this. I am afraid to try this again as I may not be able to close them again.

    I have read hundred's of forums and went through both haynes and bentley manuals but no joy. Everything is pointing towards comfort relay whch I don't have (although a L reg Nov 1993 should I believe) and the 2 relays in the control module iv which as mentioned above I swapped out. I have checked all fuses - even those unrelated to windows. I don't believe it is the motors as they would not go at the same time. I really don't want to go to a dealer after avoiding them for the starter removal (anyone who replaced a starer will understand what I mean!)

    Is there something which was reset/unset after leaving the battery disconnected for this length of time?

    While checking behind the glovebox I found an alarm which never worked since I had the car - it was a retrofit but as far as I know it does nothing but could it have reset without power?

    Any questions or help will be much appreciated.

    Thanks for reading.

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  3. #2
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    Have a look at this, there's a reset procedure, otherwise if you use the search function and type 'window reset' there are a few threads there
    http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...an-inch-t2105/

  4. #3
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    jamesore's Car Details
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    Thanks gildersol. I'll give that a go this evening and update.

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  6. #4
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    Model of Car:
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    OK, an update.

    That didn't work gildersol. Thanks for the reply anyway.
    The only time I ever hear the relay click in the control module is when I open or close either door for the 5mm drop or raise. I tried the 500 clicks again but nothing happened. The last time the window moved with the switch, (see first post) it took about half an hour of constant clicking, with some breaks in between, to move it down about half way so I then decided to move it up again which took the same amount of time. My point is the relay only clicked once every 50 clicks or so and that is when the window moved a tiny bit. There is no noise from relay or motor at all when I use the switch.

  7. #5
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    Another update which is really confusing me.

    Just brought the car for a drive on the motorway and tried the windows again. They moved a bit! So I tried to find out why.

    Conclusion, which is hard to believe.
    When the engine is running at 2700-3000 rpm and above the windows work, not correctly but up in little increments. I managed to get both windows up and down a few times in the space of half an hours driving at high revs but once the car dipped below 2500 rpm no relay click or movement. When I hit 2700-3000+ the relay started clicking and the windows moved, sometimes smooth enough for about 10-12 inches but mostly just up in small jolts.

  8. #6
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    M14RKH's Car Details
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    Another E36 window problem .
    As i said in rym`s thread , the regulator was changed in my 1995 model in 1998 , it now has the same problem .
    Oh and my old 318 , it does it too. See the theme appearing.....


  9. #7
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    Yea, from the amount of stuff i've read about similar issues there are alot of faulty windows out there.

    What i'm wondering is why did they work when car is in high revs?

    I could hear the relay constantly clicking while the window was inching up. Should it not just click once and move up?
    Could the movement be stiff in the window and does the car produce more voltage when revs are high which could give it the extra kick to move a bit and then cut out because it thinks it caught someones arm. Window also dropped a bit sometimes while inching up.
    Could cleaning and regreasing the guides and taking motor/regulator apart and checking magnet which I saw in other threads help?
    Windows worked fine before so why would both of them go the same way at the same time after leaving battery disconnected for 10 days?

    If it was just 1 window I would be more inclined to think this was the problem.

  10. #8
    Dr of BMW gildersol's Avatar
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    From what M14RKH says it sounds like a common issue. Did the windows work fine before you replaced the starter? If so it does seem strange that both windows would be faulty (not impossible though). Is everything connected up ok. There is a signal from the starter to the windows related part of the ZKE. The wire is black/green. It's worth a check to see if it's connected ok.
    Last edited by gildersol; 29-04-2009 at 07:32.

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    Id have a go at changing the regulator if not too expensive . The drivers side which gets used most often is always the one at fault . Maybe they just dont have a long lifespan . Maybe buy a second hand passenger side from a left hand drive that way youre pretty safe .


  12. #10
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    jamesore's Car Details
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    Gildersol, yes the passenger window worked without issue before. The drivers side sometimes popped down a bit while shutting but that was rare and it never stopped working before.

    I started thinking about current and voltages again and had a word with another car diy'er at work today about the window only working at high revs. He immedetely said alternator. I know cars have higher current/voltage while running and it would make sense that they would be higher again with higher revs.

    The car does run on power generated by the alternator while running, yes??

    As this voltage would be higher that the battery voltage and higher again while high revving would this have something to do with it.

    I'm just writing and guessing here hoping that it will spark a long forgotton memory from someone out there !!

    Thanks

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