1999 E46 323i - caliper goosed

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  1. 1999 E46 323i - caliper goosed 
    #1
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    godzilla200sx's Car Details
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    i think its goosed the rear passenger one, as you can smell the heat from it and the disk anyway is it easier to just buy a second hand/recon one on ebay and just replace or as its cheaper would it be easier to buy a repair kit for it, im guessing its the piston thats knackered and not the acctual body.

    also are they easy to take off and replace as in bleeding and topping up as i have only ever had to remove to replace disks and never taken off the pipe. thanks
    Last edited by mark@vorny.co.uk; 03-03-2011 at 19:11.
     
     

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    How much are the calipers on Ebay?

    I would first establish if it is the caliper to be safe, could always be a handbrake problem. Is the wheel/brake disc stiff to turn? If yes then remove the caliper and see if it frees up. Then try compressing the caliper piston to see if it is seized.
     
     

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    godzilla200sx (02-03-2011)

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    Are you sure it's the caliper? It could be the the hand brake shoes. I would strip down the brakes, and try pushing the piston back in, see how easy it will go back. If it's obviously seized, you will know straight away. Also, try spinning the disc with the caliper off, to see if there is any binding of the brake shoes.
    Hope this helps you. Good luck.
     
     

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    thanks guys, the calipers are about £30 from a salvaged car and £80 reconed to newish.

    the caliper its self is hot to touch were the other 3 are cold and the brake disk is really hot.

    il try taking it off to check it tomorow now as its getting dark, il try taking it apart but if it is seized and iv taken the pads off i guess i will really struggle to get it back on again,
     
     

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    just popped outside and jacked up car with wheel on hand break off. tried spinning it and it was stiff got it free spinning so turned on ignition so i had power pumped pedal and tried to spin wheel again , same thing sticking , so jacked up driver side and did the same trick and it was free spinning both times so im guessing the bad one from this test is not letting the piston return freely after i aplly the breaks, so more contact with pad hence the extra heat to disk and caliper, think i can rule out hand break shoes now tbh.
    what you guys think
     
     

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    Ronnie (02-03-2011)

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    Does sound like caliper, just make sure the pads aren't seized in the caliper frame before condemning the caliper.
     
     

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    godzilla200sx (02-03-2011)

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    didnt think of that, im gonna try and replace rear disks and pads at the same time as there abit worn now, even thought they passed mot 6 months ago.

    so if i try and remove the caliper tomorrow to check( just the 2 7mm retaning bolts and the clip on the front need removing right), and the pads come out easy then its the caliper but if not get them out and get a bit of copper grease on em see what happens then go from there,
     
     

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    Had a go at removing it and ballsed it right up as iv snapped a pin that holds the caliper to the carrier. I'm guessing the all that heat had welded it in place so now need a new carrier and pins so car won't be moving until iv sourced it as I guess it's a tad dangerous only having 1 pin holding the caliper in place .

    just hope the carrier bolts havent fused to the hub or else i am screwed
     
     

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    If the slider has snapped and it is seized in the caliper frame then you may be able to drill it out when you have the caliper carrier off.
    Last edited by Ronnie; 03-03-2011 at 20:09. Reason: Drunk from last week still!
     
     

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    so the guiding bolt is the slider ? i thought they were ment to be tight so the caliper would still function normally even if the bolt had seized as it only attaches the carrier to the caliper , or have i got that wrong.
     
     

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