1995 e36 328i saloon suspension tweeks advice - Page 2

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    #11
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    Do it the yank's way!



    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #12
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    dont think i'll go that far, havent got round to this yet, been thrashing motorbikes around and fixing dead vans

    does anyone have some sort of calculator so i can work out my what the optimum toe settings will be for the camber i end up using?
     
     

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    #13
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    You might have a look at this, it is good info IMO. It won't tell you the exact numbers (because that varies from one car to another and depends on the purpose of the car), but it will make you understand a lot more about suspension geometry.
    Last edited by mistreku; 16-11-2011 at 08:29.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    You might have a look at this, it is good info IMO. It won't tell you the exact numbers (because that varies from one car to another and depends on the purpose of the car), but it will make you understand a lot more about suspension geometry.
    mmmmmmmmmmm thanks, but a link might help me more
     
     

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    Edited now with link.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    You must thread lock the lower 2 bolts when refitting. especially if you are packing them out with washers

    Ive been increasingly seeing these bolts come loose and even fall out now the E36 is getting a bit older.
     
     

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    #17
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    Will check mine asap, as those bolts have been taken out and put back a few times now, and never thread locked.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    Will check mine asap, as those bolts have been taken out and put back a few times now, and never thread locked.
    Worth checking for piece of mind. Ive seen a couple of them do it now....
     
     

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    #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    You might have a look at this, it is good info IMO. It won't tell you the exact numbers (because that varies from one car to another and depends on the purpose of the car), but it will make you understand a lot more about suspension geometry.
    Thanks, thats a really good write up, makes it all a bit easier to understand

    Quote Originally Posted by steve23002 View Post
    You must thread lock the lower 2 bolts when refitting. especially if you are packing them out with washers

    Ive been increasingly seeing these bolts come loose and even fall out now the E36 is getting a bit older.
    Thanks Steve, i will bare it in mind if I ever get round to it
     
     

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    #20
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    im looking at puttin a cheeky bit of camber on my e36 loon, cheers for the info
     
     

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