1994 E36 318i - front camber

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  1. 1994 E36 318i - front camber (camber angle now posted) 
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    have recently lowered my car on coilovers and the front wheels look slightly leaned in at the top. does the camber change as the wheel moves up and down in the wheel arch?
    Have googled E36 camber adjustment and at says it need aftermarket parts to adjust this but,
    the hole on item number 2 in the pic that bolt number 5 goes through looks not to be round but its slightly oval. is that so the bolt can be loosened, number 2 angled differently and then the bolt nipped up adjusting the camber?


    not taken much notice of suspension setup before as you can probably tell

    will be getting 4 wheel alignment done soone after alloys put on.
    Last edited by 318i; 01-07-2009 at 19:17. Reason: update
     
     

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    As far as I know the camber does change when lowering your car-the wheel will lean in at the top
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by 318i View Post
    ... ... its slightly oval. ... ...

    Oh dear.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimf671 View Post
    Oh dear.
    just looked like it, might not of been though.
    thought that may of been the camber adjustment as you might be able to loosen it, adjust angle of hub and then tighten it back up.
     
     

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    camber is adjusted at the top mount/turret interface.
    if the car has been lowered then the camber will need to be reset
    what i've felt,what i've known
    never shined through in what i've shown.

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    PLEASE READ THE POSTING RULES & HOW TO CORRECT THREAD TITLES & THE SELLING RULES
     
     

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    RYM (27-06-2009)

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    Quote Originally Posted by 328mark View Post
    camber is adjusted at the top mount/turret interface.
    if the car has been lowered then the camber will need to be reset
    sorry for being un-clued up, how that done?
    ive seen the top mounts that are adjustable but at £100+ seems like a lot of money for it, the cnc machined ones.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by 318i View Post
    sorry for being un-clued up, how that done?
    ive seen the top mounts that are adjustable but at £100+ seems like a lot of money for it, the cnc machined ones.
    I've never had my camber adjusted. When I had it aligned at ProTyre it was recorded as still being JUST within tolerance... The leaning in affect aids better clearance on the arches when you go very low If you rotate the tyres on the RYM occasionally then you can counteract the problem

    The only way that I'm aware of it being adjusted is by using after market products
     
     

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    318i (27-06-2009)

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    mine was adjusted by the locating pin being removed and the whole topmount being moved outboard...the 3 holes for the studs are elongated to enable this adjustment.
    i dont know if this holds true for e36 models,but its how they did mine
    hth
    what i've felt,what i've known
    never shined through in what i've shown.

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    PLEASE READ THE POSTING RULES & HOW TO CORRECT THREAD TITLES & THE SELLING RULES
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by 328mark View Post
    mine was adjusted by the locating pin being removed and the whole topmount being moved outboard...the 3 holes for the studs are elongated to enable this adjustment.
    i dont know if this holds true for e36 models,but its how they did mine
    hth
    round holes on the e36 top mount. would of thought there would be some way of doing it though.
    thanks anyway
     
     

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    "If you can measure something and speak about it in numbers then you know something about it." WT

    Measure the camber. It's not hard to do. First thing you need is level ground. Then you have a choice between using a plumb-line or a spirit level to get your vertical reference set against the rim. Use a ruler to measure the diameter of the rim and then the small difference between the vertical reference at either top or bottom. Then you have to do the trig to calculate the camber angle: use a 16 year old who has just sat GCSE Maths for this!

    Once you have the camber angle then you know what you are talking about and can compare it with the spec. If it's within the specification then fine. If not, then back on the forum and find out what others have used effectively and economically. The wider your tyres then the less acceptable is excess camber.

    Worst case scenario is that the camber angles of the two front wheels are very different. There is a spec for the acceptable difference. If its out of spec then there should be a reasonable explanation such as weight distribution. Loosening off all the bolts and shoving things around might help. If there is no reasonable explanation for the difference then start wondering about bent components.
     
     

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