E36 316i Compact Turbo (M43B16) -Need some insight - please advise.

Notices
 

Thread: E36 316i Compact Turbo (M43B16) -Need some insight - please advise.

Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18
  1. E36 316i Compact Turbo (M43B16) -Need some insight - please advise. 
    #1
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    rodd1s's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    PIECE OF SHIT
    Year of Manufacture:
    OLD
    Transmission Type:
    HARD WORK
    Car Body Type:
    DODGY

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Your mums house
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Hi guys,

    Here's my story. A couple of months ago I acquired an E36 316i Compact (M43B16 engine) and also managed to source a Mosselman turbo kit for 1.6 and 1.8 E36's. Most of it fitted relatively alright - even though it took a lot of blood, sweat and swearing to get certain things fitted.

    Currently it's not running properly - it's kinda "hiccupy" every now and then, and under full throttle it bogs down like a cow in quick sand. With partial throttle it seems to go a bit better, but only so far - as it's not full throttle. At first I thought it might be over-fuelling, but after turning down the fuel pressure regulator a couple of turns (to lean it out/make it slightly less rich running) it seems even worse to some extent.

    It's boosting fine as far as I can tell getting to just around the 5 psi mark (no boost controller attached for now) - but I think I might be missing a breather hose that I haven't disconnected or blocked off, or something along those lines...

    I was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on this, with the aid of some pictures or in-detail description of what hoses need to be disconnected/re-routed. Or maybe give me some insight and general info about these engines (as I know more about Vauxhall engines than these over-engineered powerhouses) so I can figure out where the air/fuel/whatever might be going missing or just why it's running how it's running in general.

    Cheers guys!
     
     

  2. Remove Advertisements
    BimmerForums.co.uk
    Advertisements
     

  3.  
    #2
    BMW Guru
    Car Details
    TheEnd's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    540
    Year of Manufacture:
    1998
    Transmission Type:
    Auto
    Car Body Type:
    Saloon
    TheEnd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Birmingham
    Posts
    8,981
    Thanks
    478
    Thanked 2,990 Times in 2,440 Posts
    You'll need to make sure all of your plumbing and air is accounted for, so breather will need to be connected, and if you have a bad ass dump valve, that'll have to head to ebay and be replaced with a recirculating type.

    It's a good idea to get some diagnostics like INPA and check for fault codes. 5psi isn't massive, they usually handle that, but you might be having issues with detonation and the knock sensors going off, or maybe the MAF might be maxing out but that does seem unlikely.
     
     

  4.  
    #3
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    rodd1s's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    PIECE OF SHIT
    Year of Manufacture:
    OLD
    Transmission Type:
    HARD WORK
    Car Body Type:
    DODGY

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Your mums house
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Nope, no "bad ass" dump valve is attached, I have a re-circulating one. Although, I do need to re-check its recirculating hose to make sure its not leaking. But, that's not the main problem, because even with the dump valve disconnected it wasn't working quite properly.

    You mention the air flow meter 'maxing out' - do you mean the flap inside opens fully prematurely? In which case, is there a way to tighten the spring on it?

    Moving on, I've noticed that these 4 pot motors have a lot of breather hoses coming and going to and from the the inlet manifold; not being sure what half of them do I have only disconnected and re-routed the hoses that go to the rocker cover (which is an obvious one) and the one that goes to the fuel rail (What the hell? Didn't expect one there). Yesterday I noticed there are two further hoses; one nearer the back of the engine, running almost parallel to the rocker cover breather and another near the front that seems to connect to the block itself (possibly crank case breather, but the connection looked too secure for an air line, so could be a coolant pipe).

    Can anyone explain a little about what goes on around the inlet manifolds on these engines, just so I know what hoses to look for and what to do with them.

    Cheers
     
     

  5. Remove Advertisements
    BimmerForums.co.uk
    Advertisements
     

  6.  
    #4
    BMW Guru
    Car Details
    TheEnd's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    540
    Year of Manufacture:
    1998
    Transmission Type:
    Auto
    Car Body Type:
    Saloon
    TheEnd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Birmingham
    Posts
    8,981
    Thanks
    478
    Thanked 2,990 Times in 2,440 Posts
    OK, it's a flapper car, I was expecting a BMS43 ecu which turns up on the equivalent 318i M43.
    It looks like the 316ti compacts only got that from late '98 onwards.

    The vane type airflow meter has a door that swings open and that is calibrated in the ECU to the door angle equals a specific air flow.
    With the extra demand for air, it may hit the upper maximum limit, and any extra air past that point can't be measured.

    Your air flow meter was only used on 1.6's, so maybe a change to the early 318iS M42 flow meter might work.
    This was OK for 140bhp as standard so you shouldn't have any measuring range problems.

    Nice to see you have the correct recirc valve. Too many people want a turbo just for a blow off valve which can screw everything up on a car that doesn't expect the air to go missing.
     
     

  7.  
    #5
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    rodd1s's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    PIECE OF SHIT
    Year of Manufacture:
    OLD
    Transmission Type:
    HARD WORK
    Car Body Type:
    DODGY

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Your mums house
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by TheEnd View Post
    ...

    Nice to see you have the correct recirc valve. Too many people want a turbo just for a blow off valve which can screw everything up on a car that doesn't expect the air to go missing.
    HAHA! Yep, I'm all too aware of what happens in said situation too.

    Thanks for the info - I do happen to have a spare air flow meter (which was apparently used on a previously turbo'd E36) I'll report back once I find out anything else.
     
     

  8.  
    #6
    BMW Crazed
    Car Details
    Jackmcl's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    E36 328i Sport (Turbo)
    Year of Manufacture:
    1997
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Car Body Type:
    Coupe
    Jackmcl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Guernsey, Channel Islands
    Posts
    103
    Thanks
    27
    Thanked 18 Times in 17 Posts
    I had a similar problem when running my 328i turbo on the standard ecu at low boost when I was first setting it up.
    Are you using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator? Fse valve o similar?
    I found that the fuel pressure had to be set absolutely spot on... Within a 1/16 of a turn on the setting screw perfect, otherwise it would spit, missfire and be quite hesitant even when off the boost.
    Takes a bit of time and trial-and-error work, but you should get there in the end.
    Also, does it 'hunt' on idle? Ie) erratic drop and raise of revs?
    This could be related to the fuel pressure not set right or a vacuum leak...
     
     

  9.  
    #7
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    rodd1s's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    PIECE OF SHIT
    Year of Manufacture:
    OLD
    Transmission Type:
    HARD WORK
    Car Body Type:
    DODGY

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Your mums house
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Jackmcl View Post
    ...
    Are you using a rising rate fuel pressure regulator? Fse valve o similar?
    ...
    Also, does it 'hunt' on idle? Ie) erratic drop and raise of revs?
    This could be related to the fuel pressure not set right or a vacuum leak...
    Yep, using an FSE rising rate fuel pressure regulator - really need to get a pressure gauge on there to see what its doing.
    I know this might not apply to the 4-pot, but what pressure should I be looking for at idle? Someone on the yank' forums mentioned 40-44psi (which is a bit vague if you ask me) plus 6psi per single pound of boost pressure.
    It doesn't really hunt or idle erratically when it's warm - only from a cold start does it dip and dive slightly, but only very slightly until the temp gauge starts to rise then it sits pretty much constant just below the 1k rpm mark.

    I know I'm in need of some tougher fuel hose, as the one I'm currently using seems to be expanding a bit too much for my liking.

    I got it running a bit better last night, having adjusted the fuel pressure regulator a full 3 turns or so (tighter, for higher pressure) and it seems to be helping. I'm now able to use full throttle to some extent, but for maximum power (by feel of the pull of the engine) it's best if i use "almost" full throttle, ie: about 95% throttle I suppose.

    I am still in need of some explanation as to what all the pipes and hoses do that are connected to the inlet manifold, so far I've still only got the rocker cover and fuel rail breathers disconnected, and their respective connectors on the manifold have been blocked off, etc.

    The spare air flow meter I have laying about has the exact same part number as the one on my car, so from that I can only deduce that it is not from a 318iS - and the springyness of the flappers are equal.

    Anything else I should be looking for?
     
     

  10.  
    #8
    BMW Crazed
    Car Details
    Jackmcl's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    E36 328i Sport (Turbo)
    Year of Manufacture:
    1997
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Car Body Type:
    Coupe
    Jackmcl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Guernsey, Channel Islands
    Posts
    103
    Thanks
    27
    Thanked 18 Times in 17 Posts
    The bentley service manual says the fuel pressure should be 3.0 bar as standard (43.8 psi) - not sure about the comment 6psi per pound of boost, but that'll be set by the FSE valve anyway I think.
    Either way it's probably going to run a bit lean...
    You'll really need a gauge to set it correctly - take the vacuum hose off the regulator when setting it at idle as well; because the vacuum in the manifold will reduce the reading.

    I'm not that familiar with the inlet manifold on the 4-pot models i'm afraid, get hold of a bentley manual, that'll probably help...
     
     

  11.  
    #9
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    rodd1s's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    PIECE OF SHIT
    Year of Manufacture:
    OLD
    Transmission Type:
    HARD WORK
    Car Body Type:
    DODGY

    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Your mums house
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Well well.. it seems the fuel line I'd originally installed was actually intended for carbs - despite what it claimed on the packaging. It expanded from 12mm to nearly 2 inches and popped with a loud bang, too! I'll upload a picture at some point.

    Luckily it happened while the car was stationery and I had the tools and some spare hose to whip off the inlet manifold and temporarily bypass the FSE regulator in a car park at midnight. Bad times.

    I've now fitted some far better fuel hose that I've used before in another turbo set up, so I know it will hold.
    Still waiting on receiving some ebay-ordered fittings for a pressure gauge as the local Halfords were yet again out of any useful stock (surprise-surprise!)

    I've played around with the fuel pressure quite a bit now (without knowing exactly if its too high or low) and regardless it still bogs down under full throttle. So I've currently got it set so that at idle and cold running it's not hindered at all, and just staying away from full throttle and high revs until I get the pressure dialled in.

    I've dug out and old Air-Fuel ratio gauge that I bought some years ago, but in my experience hooking one of these up to the in-use lambda sensor it alters the signal that goes to the ECU and make it idle and run lumpy (like a dodgy O2 sensor would) - does this apply for these engines too? Does anyone have any experience with attaching an Air-to-Fuel ratio gauge on a Bimmer? Or would I be better off getting a reading from an independent sensor?
     
     

  12.  
    #10
    BMW Crazed
    Car Details
    Jackmcl's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    E36 328i Sport (Turbo)
    Year of Manufacture:
    1997
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Car Body Type:
    Coupe
    Jackmcl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Guernsey, Channel Islands
    Posts
    103
    Thanks
    27
    Thanked 18 Times in 17 Posts
    If it's a narrow band afr gauge then it'll be about as much use as Anne Frank's drum kit.
    You'll really need a wideband lambda but you're looking at upwards of £100 with the gauge...
    If you're eventually looking to get a standalone engine management system, go for one with wideband lambda input...that'll save you having to spend extra on the separate gauge.
     
     

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Tags for this Thread

View Tag Cloud

Posting Permissions
  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts