2000 E46 330d, No boost pressure

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  1. 2000 E46 330d, No boost pressure 
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    welshspiky's Car Details
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    hi i had my car rr yeasterday and it made 166bhp and 218 tourqe but we couldnt find any boost pressure. we tapped into the vacum pipe on the throttle body, one coming of the tubo and one coming of the inlet manifold. the best we could get was -0.9 bar of pressure. any ideas what could be the problem oh and the figures were at the fly.
    thanks
    mike.
     
     

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    Hi there just so i understand correctly you car made 166 BHP @ Flywheel running -0.9bar boost, So the car didn't even make it to +/-0.0 or +0.1 etc at any stage? What engine is it that you have turbo charged?? Does it come on boost when driving? Have you a dump valve fitted?
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by welshspiky View Post
    hi i had my car rr yeasterday and it made 166bhp and 218 tourqe but we couldnt find any boost pressure. we tapped into the vacum pipe on the throttle body, one coming of the tubo and one coming of the inlet manifold. the best we could get was -0.9 bar of pressure. any ideas what could be the problem oh and the figures were at the fly.
    thanks
    mike.
    Can you stick the year and model in the thread it makes it much easier to help. From your car details I am guessing the engine is 2000 M57 184bhp diesel? If it is then, 166bhp at the wheels is about right.

    There is no thottle body on a diesel and and the best place to take off a boost pressure gauge is the EGR valve or intercooler to manifold aluminium pipe.

    If it was make 166bhp there was turbo boost, that engine will make 75bhp at most without the turbo. Secondly air pressure is 1bar so any pressure gauge should read 1+boost, max boost on a stock engine is about 1.5bar (or 2.5bar absolute, i.e. plus air pressure)

    I would use the diagnostics tools like INPA to read pressure, the is a MAP (pressure sensor in the inlet manifold that measures boost)

    Suspect your pressure gauge is stuffed
     
     

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    ^^^ Just noticed this is a TD, feck all power loss if 184 BHP standard and you have 166 to the fly, definately within acceptable tolerances.
     
     

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    If your looking for boost perhaps you shouldn't be plumbing into a vacuum line, unlike a petrol car the engine itself doesn't create vacuum due to having no butterfly valve as a throttle hence it has a vacuum pump so no matter what the turbo is doing the vac ines will always have vacuum in, the rolling road operator needs to be shot for not knowing this.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevcoss View Post
    If your looking for boost perhaps you shouldn't be plumbing into a vacuum line, unlike a petrol car the engine itself doesn't create vacuum due to having no butterfly valve as a throttle hence it has a vacuum pump so no matter what the turbo is doing the vac ines will always have vacuum in, the rolling road operator needs to be shot for not knowing this.
    And i would not be returning to that RR
     
     

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    thanks for the replys. i thort 166 is low. ill try the egr valve on the next run.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by welshspiky View Post
    thanks for the replys. i thort 166 is low. ill try the egr valve on the next run.
    Its about right if the engine is not re-maped, you should expect to lose 10-20bhp from flywheel to wheels depending on the condition of the gearbox, prop shaft, diff and drive shafts
     
     

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    the car has done 108000 miles and has service history up to 54000. i tryed the egr valve but that runs negative pressure to so that was no good lol. i spoke to my lecture (who is a bmw specalist) and he said there is no way of getting boost readings without drilling in to the inlet or boost pipe and ironacaly i replaced one of them befor the rr because it had a hole in it. so im gona buy another one of ebay and fabricate a pipe of the boost pipe so i could get a reading of that.
     
     

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    Seems like a lot of trouble.

    Can you not get boost pressure from the ODB2 port?

    I run a bluetooth ODB2 adapter to a torque app on my phone and get "fairly" accurate (as far as i can tell) boost readings....

    Just a thought before replacing bits and drilling holes.
     
     

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